The last time my boyfriend and I took a bicycling vacation, we raced 105 miles up a treacherous mountain in North Carolina and collapsed after the steep finish. This time, searching for a bit more relaxation and bike-friendly roads, we headed for the relatively flat, straight, Elroy-Sparta Bike Trail in west-central Wisconsin.
Located about five hours from Chicago’s Loop in a bucolic, hilly region of the state, the 32-mile crushed limestone path was one of the nation’s first rails-to-trails conversions in 1966 and runs on the abandoned Chicago-Northwestern Railroad bed. Starting in either Sparta or Elroy, the popular wooded trail threads through three sleepy small towns and takes cyclists, walkers or runners through three spooky, cavernous tunnels.
Though the tracks have vanished and trains haven’t rumbled through since 1964, the unlit tunnels are like a time machine; the minute we stepped inside the cool, yawning mouth of the first and felt the spring water dripping off the ceiling and walls, we could visualize the 1870s when workers were blasting through the 40-foot cliffs with dynamite. Locals like Ken Kittleson, who works at Sparta’s Beaver Creek Market, like to add to the effect by using a harmonica to replicate train whistles while inside the tunnels. “It scares the kids,” Kittleson said with a grin.
Sparta, the northwest end of the trail, was our starting point, mainly because the town of 8,000 proclaims itself “the Bicycle Capital of America.” Though that’s quite a stretch–it’s actually the home of kitschy fiberglass roadside attractions like the “World’s Largest Bike”– Sparta does have endless biking opportunities, whether you’re a roadie who wants smooth pavement, hills and speed, or a recreational rider who wants to birdwatch, enjoy the lush foliage or ride with the kids.
On the other end, Elroy, a town of 1,600 on the west fork of the Baraboo River, hooks into the “400” trail and the “Omaha Bike Trail.”
Overall, Wisconsin boasts 67 trails with 1,313 miles. But if biking isn’t your thing, there’s golf, horseback riding, kayaking, camping, hiking, fishing, running and antique shopping. We spent a few hours sifting through at least a hundred handmade quilts (between $300 and $600) in the Amish community of nearby Cashton, and that was just one shop.
We were even reluctant to leave the picturesque grounds of our bed-and-breakfast, Justin Trails, a romantic rural, year-round resort on a third generation dairy farm owned by Don and Donna Justin. In the winter, Justin Trails offers 7 1/2 miles of groomed cross-country ski and snowshoeing trails.
In the summer, even though it’s a working farm, the land is available for trail running, frisbee golf, hiking, and even walking George and Heidi, the couple’s sled-pulling Siberian huskies.
Donna graciously catered to our high maintenance dietary needs–no meat, wheat or dairy between the two of us–with homemade granola, compote, wheat-free muffins, migas, a southwestern dish, and cranberry juice. Our luxury Scandinavian log cabin was built from aspen trees off their property and included a loft, hand-crafted log bed, hot tub, skylights, deck and other modern amenities.
Still, we felt compelled to work off Donna’s homemade four-course breakfasts, which were served at the Justin Eatery, a renovated machine shed. So we rented two Fuji cross bikes ($15 per bike per day) and bought trail passes ($3 per day, $10 per year) from Outspokin’ Adventures in Sparta, which is run out of the Victorian home of Olga and Tom McAnulty.
Though my car has a roof rack, Outspokin’ Adventures, which also offers kayak trips and shuttle service, will deliver bikes to your lodging or to the trail head.
As a road cyclist, I assumed we’d ride to Elroy and back in one day (64 miles). But the trail begs for cross bikes, and that means touring, not speeding, and we spread the riding out over two afternoons. It was plenty of exercise. While there isn’t a single hill to climb, the trail has a sneaky 3 percent grade that can be taxing on a hot, humid July afternoon.
From Sparta, we rode 8 miles to the first tunnel, which was completed in 1873 after three years of work. It’s an eerie 3/4-mile walk with your bike through blackness, if, like us, you neglect to bring a flashlight. In the middle of the tunnel, it’s impossible to see light at either end of the tunnel. “This really is a leap of faith,” my boyfriend said as we crept forward.
We emerged in bright sunshine, though, and 3 miles later pedaled into Norwalk, “the Black Squirrel Capital of the World” and home of Diamond Lil’s Saloon, which welcomes bikers with signs, balloons and two bike racks outside. Like the other towns, Norwalk had basic provisions, but was virtually deserted. Along the trail, the Morris Creek Cafe offers breakfast, ice cream and sandwiches.
The next town, Wilton, the “Heart of the Trail,” is 17 miles from Sparta and home of Gina’s Pies R Square, which was packed with cyclists and known as the best food on the trail. Wilton is also the entrance to the Kickapoo River Recreation Area and near the Ocooch Mountains and the Kickapoo Valley Reserve.
After the ride we drove through the scenic hills and valleys of the Amish region, stopping when we’d see signs and tentatively venturing on to Amish farms to look at their handiwork.
Dinner was at the upscale Back Door Cafe in Cashton, which is located inside the Ages Past Bed & Breakfast, a former Catholic rectory from the 1800s. Adding to the small-town charm was the fact that our waitress was the reigning Miss Cashton and our waiter was one of the B&B’s owners.
On Sunday, our second day, we went for a run through the forest behind Justin Trails before breakfast, which Donna will deliver in a basket to your cabin. In the early afternoon we drove back to Wilton, parked the car on a side street and biked the last section of the trail, a 15-mile stretch one way. On our way to Kendall, which serves as the Trail Headquarters in the restored train depot, we passed Girl Scouts from Appleton, Wis., families, senior citizens, couples, large groups, a father and his 10-year-old son, and solo riders. At Elroy, we took a short break before heading back to Wilton, accompanied by soaring hawks, herons and other wildlife.
Though biking on one of the premier recreational trails in the country was the main attraction, the area’s real treasure was its rural landscape, pastoral views and gently rolling hills. But be warned. Among the farms, the horsedrawn Amish carriages, the pristine blue sky, the blooming flowers and songbirds, neither one of us was ready to return to the frenetic pace of the city after just two days. Donna nodded knowingly when we asked for another night. We made it back to work by Tuesday.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Three-day expenses for two:
Lodging (three nights) ……. $330
Gasoline …………………. $30
Tolls ……………………… 2.40
Meals …………………… $160
Trail fees (two days) ……… $12
Bike rental (two days) …….. $60
Total …………………… $594.40
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Sparta is directly off Interstate Highway 90, approximately 280 miles northwest of Chicago. Take I-90 west to Wisconsin Highway 27.
LODGING
The region is rich with bed-and-breakfasts, and while many are in Sparta and Elroy, others are off the beaten path. Justin Trails (7452 Kathryn Ave., Sparta; 800-488-4521; www.justintrails.com) is a picturesque mini-resort that offers rooms in a quaint 1920s farmhouse or luxurious private cabins. Rooms range from $85 to $275.
The Strawberry Lace Inn (603 N. Water, Street, Sparta; 608-269-7878), an Italianate Victorian residence built in 1875, has five bedrooms from $89 to $145.
The Trail-Side Bed & Breakfast (26147 Wisconsin Highway 71, Wilton; 608-435-6525) sits just off the bike trail in Wilton and has six rooms with private baths, ranging from 95 to $116.
In Elroy, the secluded Rocky Ridge Bison Farm (N4065 Gnirk Lane, Elroy; 608-462-5632; www.elroynet.com/bisonbnb) has three rooms available for $62 during the week and $69 on weekends.
Families in search of inexpensive lodging and that essential swimming pool can try Sparta’s Super 8 Motel (800-800-8000) or the Country Inn by Carlson (800-456-4000). Camping is also available.
DINING
There’s lots of fast food in Sparta, but locals also recommend the bike-short-appropriate Slice of Chicago (507 W. Wisconsin, Sparta; 608-269-2181) for its pizza and pasta.
For an upscale meal, make reservations at the Back Door Cafe (1223 Front St., Cashton; 608-654-5950), which is located inside the Ages Past Bed and Breakfast. Entrees include medallions of beef tenderloin, pan-fried quail, Alaskan poached salmon and marinated duck breast. Prices range from $15.95 to $21.95. The banana splits are colossal. Closed Sunday.
Gina’s Pies R Square (400 Main St., Wilton; 608-435-6541) offers soups, salads, sandwiches and pie and has a reputation as the tastiest food on the trail.
We didn’t try the Foxhole Pub (Wisconsin Highway 21 East, Sparta; 608-269-6271), but they boast that “the nicest people in the world eat here.” Serves steak, seafood, chicken, pizza and sandwiches.
If you’re desperate for local organic produce, tofu and soymilk, hit the Beaver Creek Market (127 N. Water; 608-269-9770) in downtown Sparta during the day.
ATTRACTIONS
The Deke Slayton Memorial Space & Bike Museum (200 W. Main St., Sparta; 888-200-5302) houses a collection of antique and classic bicycles and memorabilia. Through Oct. 31, hours are 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. except Sunday when it’s open 1 to 5 p.m. Admission is $5, for adults, $4 for seniors and $3 for children ages 7 through 15.
ACTIVITIES
Down a Country Road (608-654-5318) takes visitors into one of the largest Amish settlements (about 300 families) in the region, where it’s possible to buy hand-crafted Amish goods. Hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Saturday from May through October. Other hours by chance or appointment. No Sunday sales.
The Sparta Municipal Golf Course (608-269-3022) is considered one of the best 18-hole courses in the country under $50.
Try horseback riding at Redrock Trail Rides (608-823-7865), located on a 365-acre working dairy farm. Redrock offers 15 miles of trail riding ($13 per person, per hour), as well as picnic rides, pony rides, moonlit rides, group rides and birthday parties.
BIKE RENTAL
Out Spokin’ Adventures (409 N. Court Street, Sparta; 800-4WE-BIKE; www.centuryinter.net/outspokin) provides bicycle tours ranging from one to seven days, bike and kayak rentals, shuttle service. Rents Fuji mountain bikes or hybrids ($15 per day) and Cannondale tandem road bikes ($50 per day).
Speeds Bicycle (1126 John St., Sparta; 608-269-2315; www.speedsbike.com) is perfectly situated just before the entrance to the trail. A good place for last-minute bike needs. Rents mountain and cross bikes ($13.50 per day), child trailers and child trail-a-bikes ($11.50 per day), 21-speed tandem ($29.50) and recumbent bikes ($22.50).
Elroy Commons Trail Shop (303 Railroad St., Elroy; 888-606-BIKE; www.elroywi.com) also has showers and other amenities available. Rents Trek mountain/cross bikes, children’s bikes, kid carriers and tandems for $3 per hour for shorter rides and $12 per day.
TRAIL INFORMATION
The 32-mile Elroy-Sparta Trail (www.elroy-sparta-trail.org) is easy to find. In Sparta, it begins 2 miles southeast of the downtown area, near Wisconsin Highways 16 and 71. The trail may also be entered at the Elroy Commons in Elroy, or 1/2 mile northwest of Elroy on Wisconsin 71. Other options: Continue on Wisconsin 71 to the village of Kendall and hop on at the Trail Headquarters at the old Kendall Depot, or enter at Wilton or Norwalk on Wisconsin 71. Trail passes ($3 daily, $10 yearly) are required for bikers age 16 and older and can be bought at stores near the trail. There is no charge for hiking or snowmobiling in the winter.
The Trail Headquarters and Concession Center in Kendall (608-463-7109) has a Railroad History Museum, a picnic area, parking, pay phone and electric cart for persons with special needs who may want to take a short ride. Bicycle rentals and drivers are available to take you in your vehicle to where you want to begin. It’s located in Kendall on Wisconsin 71, equal distance between Wildcat Mountain and Mill Bluff State Parks and 18 miles off I-90. Handicapped accessible.
OTHER INFO
Sparta Convention and Visitors Bureau at 800-354-BIKE; www.spartawisconsin.org.
Wisconsin Department of Tourism, 52 W. Adams St., Chicago; 312-332-7274; 800-432-8747; www.travelwisconsin.com.
