Who’s afraid of a little fish?
We are, apparently. Just take a look at our grilling habits:
We love grills: 89 percent of American households own at least one, according to Weber-Stephen Products Co. And we use them: 57 percent of us grill all year.
But when it comes to what we put on those grills, we’re predictable. Year after year, surveys by both Weber and the Barbecue Industry Association show that the top items are steaks, chicken and hamburgers. Weber puts steak in first place; BIA lists hamburgers.
Where are fish and seafood? Way down in seventh place on Weber’s list and 12th on BIA’s.
Our shrimp on the barbee is in danger of falling through the grate.
“I’m always surprised,” says Donna Myers, a spokeswoman for barbecue association, which represents companies that make grilling equipment. “Everybody I know grills fish.”
But seafood on the grill may be looking more attractive. For one thing, we’re eating more fish, according to the Grocery Manufacturers of America: Yearly consumption is up to 14.9 pounds per person, from 12.5 pounds in 1980.
Getting it right
So what are you afraid of? Unfortunately, we have a good idea: Sticking fish, dry fish, overcooked fish.
All valid points. To get advice, we called Stephen Raichlen, author of “The Barbecue! Bible” and the upcoming “America on Fire,” about regional grilling.
When we reached him, he was on a ferry boat coming back from Martha’s Vineyard, where he’d spent several days eating lobster, steamers and clam hash. Raichlen considers grilled fish and seafood so important, he included two chapters on them in “The Barbecue! Bible.”
First, let’s look at sticking.
“One thing is, you need to start with a very hot grill grate,” he said. “And it’s got to be a very clean grill grate. So go over it with a steel brush” while the grate is hot. Then, oil the grate while it’s hot by using a paper towel dipped in oil and held with tongs.
Or buy a fish basket, one of those long-handled contraptions. They’re even sold at some supermarkets these days.
“If you’ve got temperamental fish or you want to cook a whole fish, it’s worth buying,” he says. Spray the inside of the basket with oil or you’ll just have fish stuck to the basket instead. But turning the fish without having it fall apart will be easier with the basket.
Then, pick your fish.
“The choice of fish can make a big difference,” Raichlen said. “Obviously, the easiest are steak fish–salmon, swordfish, tuna. The worst kind to grill are soft fish, like sole or snapper fillets.”
Shellfish are also fair game–lobsters and shrimp, of course, but also clams, mussels and oysters. Raichlen even grills squid.
Then, build your fire. In general, Raichlen opts for a hot fire. But it depends, not on the fish, but on the thickness: “The thinner the fish, the hotter the fire.” Thick cuts and whole fish need time to cook inside before the outside burns, so they need a medium fire, or a fire with coals banked on one side, so you can sear them, then move them to a cooler area to finish. Fillets, and tuna, which should be rare inside to keep it from being dry, need a hot fire.
With shellfish, use the shell as protection from overcooking. If you shell shrimp first for easier eating, add some kind of fat–a marinade with oil, or wrap bacon around it.
Which side goes down first, skin side or flesh side? Raichlen likes skin down. The skin protects the fish from the fire and helps it hold together.
“And fish skin is really yummy,” he insisted. “When I have a side of salmon, I take the skin off and cook the fillets. And then I take the skin and brush it with sesame oil and sprinkle it with salt and pepper and cook it on the grill. It gets crispy.”
Timing is everything
Now, on to the last step: when to take the fish off the fire. While the standard rule is to cook fish 10 minutes per inch of thickness, the grill takes a little tweaking. For many fish, it’s better to cook it longer on one side, usually 6 to 7 minutes, then turn it using an oil-sprayed spatula and cook 3 to 4 minutes on the second side.
“I don’t like fashionably underdone fish,” Raichlen says. He uses several methods to check. He presses it to see if it’s firm and if the sections are starting to flake around where he presses. Or he inserts a metal skewer in the side of the fish and leaves it in for 10 to 15 seconds. When it’s pulled out, it should feel hot.
You can also just cut into the fish next to the bone. “A fish fillet isn’t like a balloon; it’s not like a cut is going to drain out all the juices.”
Swordfish steaks with puttanesca sauce
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
– From “Weber’s Big Book of Grilling,” by Jamie Purviance and Sandra S. McRae (Chronicle, $22.95). However you explain the name–puttana is an Italian word for a prostitute–this sauce is quick and simple, perfect when made with summer’s great tomatoes. It’s like a salsa over grilled fish steaks. We even liked the leftovers for a cold lunch the next day.
Extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Sauce:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup finely diced red onion
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 cup coarsely chopped tomatoes
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon minced oil-packed anchovies or 1/2 teaspoon anchovy paste, optional
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons pitted, sliced kalamata olives
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
4 swordfish steaks or other firm-fleshed fish steaks
1. Prepare grill for a direct fire over medium coals. While grill is heating, prepare sauce. Warm olive oil in a small saute pan or skillet over low heat. Add the onion and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, just until garlic begins to brown, 3-5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, vinegar, anchovies and red pepper flakes. Heat to a simmer; cook 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the olives and thyme. Remove from heat; set aside.
2. Lightly brush both sides of the steaks with olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Grill steaks about 5-6 minutes; turn and grill 4-5 minutes on second side. While fish is grilling, rewarm sauce if necessary. Remove steaks from the grill and spoon sauce over them to serve.
Nutrition information per serving:
246 calories, 48% of calories from fat, 13 g fat, 2.5 g saturated fat, 53 mg cholesterol, 4 g carbohydrates, 28 g protein, 268 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Grilled salmon with hoisin glaze
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Marinating time: 1 1/2 hours
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
– From “Simply Salmon,” by James Peterson. The brining step here is optional. When we tested it, we brined the fish for only 1 hour in the refrigerator, then let it marinate in the glaze for 30 minutes. The results were still delicious.
6 salmon fillets (6-8 ounces each) , skin removed if desired
Brine (2 cups salt, 1 cup sugar, 5 cups water)
1/4 cup hoisin sauce
1 clove garlic, finely minced
2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons sesame seeds, optional
2 tablespoons peanut or olive oil
1. Place salmon in brine; refrigerate up to 2 hours, or season liberally with salt and pepper and refrigerate up to 4 hours. Rinse well if brined; pat dry. Combine hoisin sauce, garlic, sesame oil and vinegar. Smear about 2 tablespoons of the mixture over the salmon; refrigerate, covered, up to 8 hours. Reserve remaining hoisin mixture. If using sesame seeds, toast them in a heavy skillet for a few minutes until light brown and fragrant.
2. Prepare grill for a medium fire. Brush grate with a paper towel dipped in peanut or olive oil. Wipe excess marinade off salmon; brush lightly with oil. Place on grill directly over fire, skin or skinned side up. Grill 3-4 minutes. Brush with hoisin mixture. Turn; brush glaze on second side. Grill 3-4 minutes, until salmon is firm and flakes when you press it. Sprinkle with toasted seeds if desired.
Nutrition information per serving:
327 calories, 49% of calories from fat, 17 g fat, 2.7 g saturated fat, 96 mg cholesterol, 6 g carbohydrates, 35 g protein, 829 mg sodium, 0.3 g fiber
Scallop kebabs
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Standing time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 3 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
– From “The Barbecue! Bible,” by Steven Raichlen (Workman, 1998).
1 1/2 pounds bay or sea scallops
3 tablespoons each: olive oil, fresh lemon juice
4 strips lemon zest
Freshly ground pepper
Fresh basil leaves
8 thin slices pancetta or regular bacon, cut in 1-inch pieces
Hot, buttered noodles
1. Cover bamboo skewers with water; let soak. Pull off and discard the small crescent-shaped muscle from sides of scallops if present. Cut large scallops in half, if necessary, so all the pieces are the same size. Rinse and blot dry.
2. Whisk together oil, lemon juice, lemon zest and pepper to taste. Add scallops; toss to coat. Cover; let stand 30 minutes.
3. Prepare grill for direct grilling over a hot fire. Remove scallops from marinade. Thread scallops on skewers with a basil leaf and a piece of pancetta between each. Rub grill grate with a paper towel dipped in oil. Place kebabs on grill; cook until scallops are just firm and white, 1-2 minutes per side. Serve on buttered noodles.
Nutrition information per serving:
463 calories, 60% of calories from fat, 30 g fat, 8.2 g saturated fat, 89 mg cholesterol, 5.4 g carbohydrates, 40 g protein, 885 mg sodium, 0.2 g fiber
