(2 forks)
2544 W. Devon Ave.
773-764-3800
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Wed.-Mon. (closed Tuesday)
Credit: A,D,M,V
First impressions
The bright green awning and spiffy signage belie the plain decor of this Indian eatery, which opened earlier this year. Wooden chairs and tables, topped with paper place mats, seat 24. Madras’ prices are a bit lower than some other similar menus we peeked at.
On the plate
Madras Palace specializes in vegetarian fare of southern India. On one visit a staff person was greeting diners with the “warning” that the menu was vegetarian. About half the folks who heard the V-word promptly left–and one of my companions wanted to join them. But even that meat-lover found ample choices to satisfy his growling stomach. Curries, pullav (rice dishes) and dosai (crepes) take starring roles.
Second helpings
The dishes here are seasoned to varying degrees of heat. Rava masala dosai is special indeed: A gigantic, wheat-lentil crepe crisp from frying envelops a stewlike mix of onion, chilies and potatoes. Chana masala curry–chickpeas coated in tomato cooked in “exotic spices,” turmeric among them–delivers a subtle yet complex flavor that lingers. The fresh-baked breads complement the entrees. Chapathy, a thin whole-wheat bread, and the more complex peas paratha–whole-wheat bread stuffed with peas–create a nice foundation for curries. Another winner is batura, a large, puffy fried bread. Several desserts are served, including kheer, a simperingly sweet concoction of powdered rice and milk, but it would be hard to top a mango lassi, a refreshing blend of pureed mangoes and yogurt.
Take a pass
Our gripe isn’t with the food but with the lack of ambience. The dining room and bathroom could be spiffed up to compete with more appealing locales on Devon. On one visit, the scent of plumbing problems took some getting used to. (This was not a problem on another visit.)
Thirst quenchers
A range of options exists. Mangoes flavor wonderful juice and lassi. Mild Indian coffee and teas, as well as soda, make up the bulk of offerings. Liquor is not served here, but you can bring your own.
At your service
We were somewhat annoyed on one visit when the host kept trying to talk us into the buffet when we said we wanted to order from the menu. We insisted, and finally won, but it was a tussle. Things went more smoothly after that. Our servers graciously explained the various dishes and returned repeatedly to fill water glasses and clear the table.
Extra helpings
As with most Indian restaurants, the buffet with its myriad offerings continues to be a great deal and provides a selection of many dishes. It’s offered for lunch and dinner Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
Prices
Appetizers, $3.50-$6.95; breads, $1-$4; sides, $1-$2; entrees, $5.50-$13; desserts, $3.25-$3.95; beverages, $1.25-$3.50. Buffet, $8.95.
———-
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
