2 (forks)
7434 W. North Ave.
Elmwood Park
708-583-1111
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Mon.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sun.
Credit Cards: Not accepted
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Massa occupies the old Al Gelato space, but a complete rehab has transformed it into a comfortable dining room with a long coffee and gelato bar. Orders are placed at the front counter, then brought to your table. Wooden chairs discourage long-term lingering, but the few tables outside along North Avenue are good for people-watching.
On the plate
Loosely translated, massa means “dough,” so expect to find Italian standards like grilled panini sandwiches and 9-inch pizzas, plus five fried dough options and homemade panzerotti (enormous, calzone-like puffs stuffed with cheese, tomatoes and other fillings), all of which give the restaurant’s deep-fryer a serious workout. A small deli case up front offers a few homemade daily pasta salads. Fourteen daily gelato options (picked from a roster of 40) are the star desserts.
Second helpings
The Soprano panini is loaded with imported meats, cheeses, fresh basil, ripe tomatoes and sun-dried tomato mayo, and gets a boost from the mild giardiniera. Another gem, the giardino panini, holds carefully seasoned and grilled eggplant, zucchini, roasted red pepper and portobello mushrooms, along with tender spinach, sharp provolone cheese and an assertive pesto mayo. The classico panzerotti barely fits inside its plastic serving basket. Its thin outer dough holds just the slightest layer of mozzarella cheese and a fresh tomato sauce with pleasing hints of garlic. The fried dough is a far cry from its fairground imitators: nearly a dozen tiny pillows, coated in cinnamon or confectioners’ sugar, are habit forming when consumed warm. Gluttons can top them with anything from fruit and fudge to gelato and hot caramel with whipped cream and nuts.
Take a pass
Despite the freshness of the toppings and the crunchy thin crusts, both pizzas we tried were overrun with mozzarella. I didn’t mind the arancini, stuffed with rice, meat sauce, peas and fresh mozzarella, but my companion thought it lacked flavor. A baked clam appetizer was chewy and coated in a soggy breading.
Thirst quenchers
Espresso, cappuccino and latte plus more than a dozen specialty drinks that include some blended with gelato. Iced tea, lemonade, cherry Cokes and root beer floats offer cool relief; sparkling and still water is available. Patrons may bring their own wine or beer.
At your service
Counter workers are friendly and enthusiastic, and when asked specific questions about dishes they will gladly go into the kitchen to find the answer if they don’t already know it.
Extras
Kid-friendly atmosphere, including drinks like a “cookie monster latte” (steamed milk with cookie crumbs, whipped cream and a monster toy), plus five gelato creations.
Price range
Sandwiches, $5.50-$5.95; pizzas, $6-$7; panzerotti and appetizers, $3.50-$7.95; fried dough, $3.50-$4.95; coffee drinks, $1-$4.25; gelato, $2.25-$4.95; gelato specials, $2.95-$4.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
