(Don’s Fishmarket & Tavern)
9335 Skokie Blvd., Skokie
847-677-3424
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.- midnight Fri.-Sat., 4-10 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, CB, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation challenged
First impressions
This is the casual counterpart to Don’s Fishmarket, located across a short hallway in the same building. The Tavern feels like dinner in the family den, with an eclectic decor of sports equipment, musical instruments and pool cues on the wall. Accents of brass railings and hanging plants, along with booth and table seating, make it a comfortable atmosphere in which to watch one of several televisions. Cigarette smoking is permitted throughout the Tavern and second-hand fumes add an unwelcome touch of the Continent to the dining experience.
On the plate
The Tavern offers a far more extensive menu than typical bar food offerings, featuring seafood with pasta, in wraps and as main-course dinners, as well as Buffalo wings and burgers.
At your service
There was a warm welcome from the Tavern hostess on one visit; it was do-it-yourself seating for early birds on the second. The wait staff was brisk and mostly efficient; one server forgot to bring a dessert order but also forgot to charge us for it.
Second helpings
The menu gives no hint that the seafood chowder is tomatoey, slightly spicy and chock-full of vegetables, in the style of a gumbo, rather than being a traditional creamy New England chowder. But it was warming and pleasant, even though lacking in seafood. A bacon cheeseburger was cooked as ordered and met all expectations. Fans of big desserts will love the Heath Bar crunch cake, a warm square of cake laden with a tower of ice cream, whipped cream, hot fudge sauce and chopped Heath Bar bits.
Take a pass
Maryland crab cakes were heavy on the fillers and light on the crab. Ditto the special appetizer of lobster, shrimp and artichoke dip; there was some seafood flavor but–despite repeated dives into the brine with crackers–no sign of the shellfish. Other disappointments: The tempura shrimp batter was greasy and gummy; the bay scallops in the shellfish linguine had a slight ammonia flavor; and the grilled garlic shrimp were overcooked almost to mushiness.
Thirst quenchers
This is a tavern, after all, so expect a nice selection of domestic, imported and microbrewery beers; more than a dozen wines by the glass; and mixed drinks, including the “Dontini,” made with Absolut Citron vodka, Grand Marnier and cranberry juice.
Extras
Look for specials Sunday through Thursday, including steamed mussels, all-you-can-eat fried shrimp or the Seafood Bucket of steamed mussels, shrimp, oysters and clams.
Price range
Appetizers, $3.50 to $8.95; salads and sandwiches, $3.95 to $9.95; main courses, $8.95 to $11.95; desserts, $4.25 to $5.95; drinks, $2 to $8.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
