We asked a host of professionals and amateurs who love to cook, entertain and eat to share with us their tips to add sizzle on the home front. Their answers varied, but some points stood out:
– The guest list is crucial to a lively evening.
– The menu should reflect our global community and our own American culinary riches.
Last-minute gatherings with invites delivered via e-mail still may make proper souls cringe, but those who understand the true joy of breaking bread together know that nothing may be hipper–or more sincere.
1/SUSAN AURINKO (left), owner, Flatfile Photography Gallery, Chicago. “Because of the economy cutting people’s dining out and what happened on Sept. 11, I think being together and cooking together is even more precious. One thing I’ve always done is a New Year’s dinner for 15 to 20 people with a theme, and this year it’s going to be all-American regional because of our renewed national pride. Everyone will cook from a different region. “
2/DONALD YOUNG, owner, Donald Young Gallery, Chicago. “The smallest sit-down dinner is a lot more satisfying than a large party because of the intimate conversations and being able to cook for a smaller number of people rather than have a caterer do the work. I always cook from favorite cookbooks such as those by Marcella Hazan or Danny Meyer.”
3/MARGARET MARY STOETZEL, manufacturer’s representative for several tabletop companies in Chicago. “We usually have 10 for a sit-down dinner, and I always orchestrate a seventh-inning stretch. After the main course guests can get up, come to a buffet of salad and cheese, move around, tour the house. Men especially get antsy sitting, and this also helps to rejuvenate the party so everyone gets their second wind.”
4/RICK TRAMONTO, co-owner with Gale Gand of Tru restaurant, Chicago. “I think there’s going to be a lot more cooking at home during the holidays because of the tragedy. People are reaching out to friends and family. I’ve reminisced about my traditional Italian Christmas Eve dinners where we had seafood for all the courses. I think others are going to do this based on their traditions and have total comfort food.”
5/MARK STEINKE (right), managing director, Salvage One, Chicago. “The most important thing is the guest list. You can have the best, food, wine and setting, but if you don’t have interesting, lively people who represent a mix of cultures, etc., you don’t have a great party. What our staff does in their homes is use things in uncommon ways, such as 19th Century French wire children’s chairs to be bread baskets, or old chandeliers in trees for alfresco dining.”
6/JOE CARLUCCI, owner, Carlucci restaurant, Lincolnshire. “People work too hard when they entertain and neglect their company. Be prepared for your guests so you can be with them. Avoid complicated recipes. Don’t invite people over and then disappear into the kitchen. Don’t cook your roast at 7:30 p.m., for example.”
7/RICHARD GRAUSMAN, founder and president, C-Cap, Careers Through Culinary Arts Program Inc., New York, which teaches high school students culinary arts. “To feed a large gathering on Thanksgiving, roast one big turkey and then an appropriate number of fresh turkey breasts. This way you can present and carve the turkey as well as a large platter of sliced turkey breast. Since most guests prefer the breast, this works out well to feed them what they want.”
8/CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL, publisher/editor, Cook’s Illustrated magazine, Boston. “For appetizers, I get a good chunk of Parmesan and crumble it into chunks and put some balsamic vinegar on it, then put it all in a bowl or on a wooden cutting board and serve it with great wine and baguettes. It’s an inexpensive and fun way to start off a dinner.”
9/FRED ROSEN, owner, Sam’s Wine & Spirits, Chicago. “Since Sept. 11, people are ordering more wine and gourmet cheese platters for parties at home for intimate groups of four or five couples. I think this will continue. But they’re also not spending a fortune; many are asking for reds and whites in the $10-a-bottle category. As we get closer to the holidays, we see more orders for better wines too, and more champagne.”
10/CHRISTOPHER LEE (right) oversees the downstairs kitchen, Chez Panisse, Berkeley, Calif. We’ve always served homey food so we haven’t changed anything. One great dish is organic pork shoulder braised in milk, lemon and sage, a Tuscan recipe. It’s absolutely delicious and requires little tending. You can braise it on the top of the stove or in the oven, and when done the meat falls off the bone. Serve it with sauteed broccoli rabe and steamed little potatoes without their jackets.”
