(3 forks)
17400 S. Wolf Rd., Orland Park
708-478-7825
Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Credit cards: V, M
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Tucked between a forest preserve and an abandoned gas station, the term “shack” is on the money: A stand-alone house with six wooden tables and three stools against a high counter gives you the feeling that takeout is their strong point. Orders are placed at the counter and food is delivered to your table. As for cleanliness, what better endorsement than having the health inspector visit the day we showed up? This tidy shack scored 98 out of 100.
On the plate
Hefty, messy sandwiches, including pulled pork, chicken and Polish sausage; hickory-smoked back ribs and plenty of deep-fried extras like onion rings and mushrooms. Sides include predictable creamy coleslaw, applesauce, baked beans and fries. A Maryland crab cake stands out among the options; in cooler months, chili or soup is offered each day. All sandwiches include fries; “combo” meals include a drink.
Second helpings
The ribs are melt-in-your-mouth tender, though we would have preferred they not be drowned in barbecue sauce. (Solution: Order them with no sauce, then add as you wish at the table.) They’re smoked at the owner’s other restaurant, Hog Wild in Tinley Park, then delivered each morning and reheated to order. The pork tenderloin dinner could feed three or four: A 1-pound tenderloin is split, pounded thin, dusted with seasonings and then grilled, resembling an oblong Frisbee. It’s served over two massive slices of Italian bread. Onion rings and fries were delightfully crisp and seasoned well; the “oven-browns” are deep-fried cubes of potato, perfectly crisp outside, hot and steamy inside.
A pleasant surprise is the jumbo hot dog–an all-beef steamed dog the size of a Cuban cigar rests beneath a cornucopia of classic condiments: vibrant relish, sharp onions, a thinly sliced pickle and a pair of sport peppers.
Take a pass
The shrimp dinner is a frozen product that is deep-fried to order, and the breading overwhelms it; “hot wings” aren’t that hot. They arrive dressed with a few splashes of bottled hot sauce. Coleslaw and applesauce are bland.
Thirst quenchers
Mostly self-serve fountain drinks like Pepsi, root beer and Dr. Pepper, along with some iced tea. Milk shakes are also available, as is cinnamon coffee. No alcohol is served.
At your service
Servers are extremely friendly and knowledgeable. As we ordered–and the health inspector went about his business–the staff answered questions and brought each dish to our table unfazed.
Extras
They cater a pig roast at your home for a minimum of 50 people. Kids have a special “piglets” menu including pulled pork, hamburgers and chicken nuggets.
Price range
Dinners, $5.50-$15.50 (for full slab of back ribs); sandwiches, $2.32-$6; piglet menu, $2.75-$3.50; appetizers, $1.25-$9.50; sides, 25 cents-$2.10; drinks, $1-$2.25.
———-
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
