We often look to the past for inspiration. Brining is one of the oldest methods of preserving and flavoring food, and its revival has inspired a contemporary generation of cooks exploring a new world of tastes.
Before refrigerators were standard equipment, a brine, which is simply liquid infused with salt, helped to preserve food for longer storage. Today we are drawn to its ability to season meat and poultry right down to the bone.
So how does this magical process unfold? According to “Cook’s Illustrated Complete Book of Poultry,” salt causes protein strands to unwind, creating a tangled web that traps water. When exposed to heat, these strands gel just like an egg white does when it hits a hot frying pan, forming a barrier that prevents moisture from escaping in cooking.
In testing, the Cook’s Illustrated staff found that an 11-pound turkey gained about 3/4 pound when soaked in brine in the refrigerator, and that the brined birds weighed about 6 to 8 ounces more after roasting than a bird of similar size that had not been brined. The brined turkey was far juicier, bursting with succulent flavor.
Brining is so simple that the most difficult step may be deciding on the right container. A non-corrosive stainless-steel bowl or pot is ideal. It should be large enough to hold the meat easily, but not so large that the meat floats. (Make sure that the pot fits into your refrigerator.)
Most brining recipes call for coarse kosher salt, but if you want to substitute finer table salt, cut the amount in half. A good proportion to use is 1 cup kosher salt to 1 gallon of water. A light fruit juice such as apple or pear can make up part of the liquid. Sugar is often added for browning, creating a beautiful mahogany glaze on poultry when it is roasted.
Making the brine is simple, but plan ahead. First heat the liquid gently and add the salt and sugar, stirring to dissolve. Remove the pot from the heat and infuse the brine with spices, herbs and other ingredients such as wedges of citrus. The salt will help carry all of those flavors throughout the meat.
Let the brine cool, then refrigerate. It must be cold before it’s used, as a warm brine will begin to cook the meat, drawing out juices and flavor. Then submerge the meat in the cold brine and, if necessary, weigh it down with a plate.
For poultry, plan for about 2 hours brining time for every pound of meat. Whole chickens weighing about 4 pounds will take 8 hours, a 14-pound turkey 24 hours. Denser meats such as pork loin roast will take 3 to 4 hours for each pound, with incredibly tender slices as your reward.
Honey-brined turkey breast
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Chilling time: 2 hours
Brining time: 10 hours
Cooking time: 2 1/2-3 hours
Standing time: 15 minutes
Yield: 10 servings
5 quarts water
1 cup coarse kosher salt
3/4 cup honey
1 bunch fresh thyme
4 large cloves garlic, crushed, peeled
1 tablespoon coarsely ground pepper
1 turkey breast, 5-6 pounds
1 lemon, halved
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1. Combine water, salt and honey in large saucepan. Heat just to boiling, stirring to dissolve salt and honey. Remove from heat; stir in the thyme, garlic and pepper. Cool completely, then refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours.
2. Place turkey breast in 8- to 10-quart stockpot. Pour chilled brine over turkey; cover. Refrigerate at least 10 hours and up to 24 hours. Turn occasionally.
3. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Drain turkey well; discard brine. Pat dry outside of turkey with paper towels. Place on rack in a foil-lined roasting pan. Squeeze lemon juice inside the cavity and over skin. Rub skin with olive oil.
4. Roast about 30 minutes per pound, basting occasionally with the broth, until an internal temperature reaches 170 degrees, 21/2-3 hours total. If the turkey is browning too much, cover loosely with foil. Transfer turkey to cutting board. Let stand about 15 minutes before carving.
Nutrition information per serving:
315 calories, 37% calories from fat, 13 g fat, 3.5 g saturated fat, 120 mg cholesterol, 760 mg sodium, 1.7 g carbohydrate, 45 g protein, 0 g fiber
Ginger-citrus brined shrimp
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Chilling time: Overnight
Brining time: 2-6 hours
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
If you typically buy frozen shrimp, brining them 30 to 60 minutes in the refrigerator after thawing will firm and freshen them. The following is a more complex approach, but even a simple salt solution will help. Adapted from “The Occidental Tourist,” by Stan Frankenthaler and Sally Sampson.
Brine:
2 teaspoons sesame oil
3/4 cup peeled, thinly sliced fresh ginger root
1/2 head garlic (halved horizontally to expose cloves)
1 1/2 tablespoons coriander seeds
3 to 4 star anise pods
2 1/2 tablespoons each: granulated sugar, brown sugar
1/4 cup coarse kosher salt
6 cups water
1/2 each: lemon, lime
1 orange, quartered
2 stalks lemon grass, sliced
Shrimp:
1 1/2 pounds large shrimp, peeled, deveined
2 teaspoons safflower or canola oil
1 teaspoon sesame oil
Lime wedges
1. For brine, place large saucepan over medium heat; add oil. Add half of the ginger and the garlic; cook until lightly browned, 2-3 minutes. Add coriander seeds and star anise. Cook until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Stir in sugars and salt. Cook, stirring, until melted and lightly caramelized, about 5 minutes. Carefully pour water into the pan. (The sugar will harden.) Turn heat to high; heat to boiling. Stir to dissolve the sugar.
2. Remove pan from heat; stir in lemon, lime, orange, lemon grass and remaining sliced ginger. Cool slightly; pour into large bowl. Cool completely. Cover; refrigerate overnight.
3. Strain the brine. Pour back into bowl; add shrimp. Cover; chill at least 2 hours and up to 6 hours. Drain shrimp; discard brine. Pat shrimp dry with paper towels.
4. Heat large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add safflower and sesame oils. Add shrimp; cook, stirring often, until pink, curled and cooked through, about 2 minutes. Serve with wedges of lime.
Nutrition information per serving:
115 calories, 30% calories from fat, 3.8 g fat, 0.5 g saturated fat, 130 mg cholesterol, 425 mg sodium, 1.5 g carbohydrate, 17 g protein, 0 g fiber
