A good place to start, because mountains rise up all around, and desert dries the sinuses-the essence of Big Bend right there in one spot. A short nature trail outside the visitor center provides a quick, useful briefing on plant life in the dry zones.
2. Chisos Basin
More big peaks define the Chisos Mountains, the only mountain range entirely within a national park. A lodge, dining room and convenience store all render support for those who care to explore the many trails that begin here-some rugged, some merely gloriously scenic. Don’t miss the short walk to a view of the V-shaped formation called the Window. Feeling invincible? Trek up to the South Rim-13 miles round trip to 7,400-foot elevation and a vista that takes in practically the whole park.
3. Sam Nail Ranch
A popular spot on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive reveals an oasis of pecan and willow trees, an old windmill, a freshwater spring and the remains of an adobe ranch house.
4. Sotol Vista Overlook
Mountains everywhere. And not to be outdone, fields of green, jagged-edged sotol form a vivid carpet. Roasted, they were a favorite source of food for Indians. Fermented, sotols became the source of booze.
5. Mule Ears Viewpoint
Farther down the scenic drive, visitors get a sweeping view of mountain, desert and the distant, somewhat comical twin peaks-ears that almost seem to wiggle in the shimmering heat.
6. Tuff Canyon
A magnificent mess created by the erosive power of Blue Creek, lava flow and volcanic ash, the canyon forms an immense pocket of gray and white in a landscape of mostly browns and reds.
7. Castolon
That land across the way is Mexico, and during border troubles early in the last century, Castolon was an army base. Now the main barracks is a general store. Other buildings and artifacts articulate the tensions of the old days.
8. Santa Elena Canyon
Stop at the highway overlook for a view of the 1,500-foot-deep, shadowy gash in the landscape carved by the Rio Grande. After that, walk across Terlingua Creek, a dry gravel bed on most days, or a shallow stream on wet days. The trail picks up along the canyon wall and proceeds until the sky is a thin slit of light overhead.
9. Rio Grande Village
From the overlook, rocky cliffs of Mexico fill esthetic needs, while the river slakes the thirst of a green, curving snake of vegetation that brightens the sere desert on either side. Another nearby overlook unveils Boquillas Canyon. Rio Grande Village also provides respite for the weary with a general store and campgrounds.
10. Tornillo Flat
The road through here is pure West Texas-hot and dry in summer, apparently unwelcoming any time. But there’s a fossil bone exhibit (dinosaurs hung out around here). And in spring, the tall dagger yuccas bloom and put on quite a show along the Dagger Flat Auto Trail. At Dog Canyon, the cavalry used to experiment with camels. Look down and imagine.
