Let us pause and praise the oven meal. Meat, vegetables, seasonings and sometimes a grain–all nestled together like so many peas in a pod. Happily heating away, mingling their essences until the whole takes on new flavors and textures not possible in stovetop or microwave cooking. It is miracle cooking.
The oven meal also is comfort food personified. And now is the time to take advantage of its charms.
“Oven dishes are typically what we do at home in the winter,” said cooking teacher and chef Peggy Ryan of Evanston. “We have a few favorites like my braised lamb shanks with fennel, potatoes and lentils, or what I call Sicilian grandma food, like braciola–round steak stuffed and rolled with sausage and oven-braised in a red wine-tomato sauce.”
And oven meals often mean fond memories:
“When I was a child, I remember my mother, who is Pennsylvania Dutch, would make white beans with ham hocks, with onion, celery, carrot,” said Ryan. “It would take all day to bake.”
Beans also bring memories for Kocoa Scott Winbush, a cooking teacher and cookbook author in Chicago.
“As a child, the oven dish that really stands out was my mom’s pork and beans. She would season them like baked beans with mustard and all, and then–though I don’t recommend anyone really do this today!–she would sear slices of Spam just enough to get a crust on them. She would either put the Spam into the beans or just leave it on top to heat through. My sister and I loved that.”
Today Winbush prefers slightly more sophisticated oven meals, including some vegetarian options. “I like making a tofu casserole with broccoli, an Asian satay sauce and cilantro. I think some of the better oven meals are totally vegetarian.”
Whether vegetarian or for meat lovers, oven
meals mean freedom for the cook. After putting ingredients together in a pot, casserole or roaster, you are free to pursue other interests as the food bubbles away for hours. This cooking style is perfect for weekend cooking, but is not out of the realm for weeknight meals when you choose recipes with shorter cooking times.
You can mix and match ingredients in one or two pots: rice or pasta for the grain; pork, beef, lamb, chicken or duck for the protein; potatoes, carrots or any green vegetables; herbs and spices; and water, wine or broth.
It’s the oven’s radiant heat that cooks the food from the outside in. If you leave the pan uncovered, you are roasting. If you cover the pan, you are braising or baking. Any of these methods can be used for oven meals.
Though the indoor, non-wood-fired oven is relatively new (the first gas oven was commercially produced in England in 1836, according to The Food Chronology), the notion of long, slow cooking is not. Stone Age clay pots buried in hot ashes may have been the first kind of improvised oven cooking. In the Middle Ages, when cooks had no ovens in their homes, they would trundle their pot of ingredients to the local baker with his huge, wood-burning oven, for all-day slow cooking, then fetch it back that night. American pioneers perfected cast-iron Dutch oven cooking in the ashes of their hearths. Even the early custom of burying food underground with hot coals (think clambake or Hawaiian luaus) was an early sort of oven.
Today it is much easier. Turn the oven dial to a selected temperature. Combine ingredients in an ovenproof roaster, casserole or Dutch oven. Insert into oven. And wait.
But some tips help ensure success. Most oven meals need a liquid “and enough of it for long cooking, so the foods don’t dry out,” Winbush said.
Meat cooked in liquid needs to sit in that liquid after removing it from the oven, Ryan added: “Let it rest for about 20 minutes. Or better yet, let it cool completely, maybe overnight, and then reheat it. It really reabsorbs the liquid and all of its flavors.”
Ryan also cautioned about what herbs you use and how much of each. “You don’t want to overpower the dish. Bay leaf, for example, can get strong over a long cooking period. Hot spices such as fresh or dried chili peppers or cayenne also will increase in potency over the cooking time.”
“To make sure things get evenly cooked,” Winbush added, “cut all the vegetables into one consistent size.”
Linda West Eckhardt and Katherine West Defoyd, the authors of “Stylish One-Dish Dinners,” agree.
“We prefer large chunks so that the vegetables have plenty of surface for crisp bites, but creamy centers for all the comfort that brings,” they write.
Winbush suggests a medium heat (350 degrees) for most dishes. “You are not trying to brown everything.”
For some recipes, though, such as those that include a roast beef or lamb, you may want some caramelization to occur, so you will need a higher temperature to start. Or brown the meat on the stovetop first. Authors Eckhardt and Defoyd believe in the high temperature start.
“Place an oven thermometer in your oven to be sure it is heated to the temperature you have set,” they write. “It’s important to get the oven plenty hot so that when the pan of food is placed inside, everything goes POW and the surfaces are sealed up tight. In the end you should have gorgeous caramelized vegetables; their sugars have transformed them into golden glistening bites.
“As far as we’re concerned, almost any combination cooked in one pot is improved by using the browning method first. Flavors are extracted, time is allowed for, and the marriage of tastes is unforgettable.
“Think of it as a long, delicious romance before the wedding. A little courtship is worth the time you put into it to build a better foundation for a solid marriage.”
What to cook in
For long, slow oven cooking, you’ll need hefty pots. Here are just a few of the roasters, Dutch ovens and casseroles available around town. Most department stores carry several of these brands.
Calphalon 5-quart hard-anodized aluminum saute pan, $170. Linens N Things.
Analon Titanium 12-inch hard-anodized aluminum saute pan, $155. Marshall Field’s.
Calphalon Commercial 18-by-12-inch hard-anodized aluminum roaster, $60. Linens N Things.
Le Creuset 5 1/2-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven in blue or red, $155. Williams-Sonoma.
All-Clad 5 1/2-quart stainless-steel Dutch oven, $210. Williams-Sonoma.
Lodge cast-iron Dutch oven, 5-quart ($26.95) or 7-quart ($48.95). Sur La Table, 52 E. Walton St.
Chicken with potatoes, artichokes, olives and garlic
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 40 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Developed in the Tribune test kitchen.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 chicken, about 3 pounds, cut up, or 3 pounds chicken pieces
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, cut into wedges
1 red onion, halved, sliced
1 package (10 ounces) frozen artichoke hearts
1 jar (8 ounces) pitted kalamata olives, drained
5 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon each: dried oregano, salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 lemons
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Heat olive oil in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown chicken in batches on all sides, about 5 minutes a batch.
2. Add potatoes, onion, artichoke hearts, olives, garlic cloves, oregano, salt and pepper. Cut 1 of the lemons into wedges; add to pan. Squeeze juice from the other lemon over all. Toss.
2. Cover; cook in oven 1 hour. Remove lid. Cook until chicken is browned and vegetables are tender, stirring vegetables and turning chicken pieces occasionally, about 30 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
755 calories, 45% calories from fat, 37 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 135 mg cholesterol, 1,195 mg sodium, 56 g carbohydrate, 48 g protein, 9 g fiber
Mock cassoulet with smoked bacon, shallots and thyme
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour, 25 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
Cassoulet is usually a three-day project, but the essential elements of this classic French country dish can be put together in this 2-hour version, developed in the Tribune test kitchen. The quality of the bacon will make a difference in this dish. Look for real hardwood-smoked bacon at butcher shops or specialty food markets. We like Nueske’s brand. Duck confit is available fresh or canned at some specialty food shops such as Trotter’s to Go or Fox & Obel.
8 ounces thick-sliced smoked bacon, cut in 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound garlic sausage, such as kielbasa, cut in 1/2-inch slices
5 shallots, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 legs duck confit, optional
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, or 1 tablespoon dried
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup dry white wine
2 cans (14 1/4 ounces each) chicken broth
2 cans (19 ounces each) cannellini or navy beans, drained, rinsed
2 cups fresh bread crumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1. Cook bacon in large, heavy Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring, until almost browned, 6 minutes. Add sausage; cook, stirring, until browned, 4 minutes.
2. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Add shallots and garlic to Dutch oven; cook, stirring occasionally, 4 minutes. Add duck legs; cook, turning once, to brown slightly, 5 minutes. Stir in thyme, tomato paste, pepper and salt. Cook 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up browned bits on bottom of pan. Heat to a boil; cook until reduced by 3/4, about 5 minutes. Stir in chicken broth and beans. Cover; cook in oven 1 hour.
3. Toss bread crumbs and olive oil in a large bowl. Remove casserole from oven; top with bread crumbs. Bake until crumbs are browned, 20 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
410 calories, 41% calories from fat, 18 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 25 mg cholesterol, 1,460 mg sodium, 42 g carbohydrate, 18 g protein, 6 g fiber
Chili chuck roast with poblanos, red peppers and rice
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 3 hours, 10 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
Developed in the Tribune test kitchen.
1 boneless chuck roast, about 3 pounds, trimmed
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 teaspoon each: salt, freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon garlic-flavored oil or olive oil
2 cans (14 1/4 ounces each) beef broth
2 poblano peppers, seeded, chopped
1 large red bell pepper, seeded, coarsely chopped
1 yellow onion, chopped
1 can (28 ounces) crushed tomatoes
1/2 to 1 canned chipotle chili in adobo sauce, finely chopped, optional
1 1/2 cups long-grain rice
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Rub roast on both sides with chili powder, salt and pepper. Heat oil over medium-high heat in Dutch oven. Add roast; cook until browned on one side, 5 minutes. Turn; cook 5 minutes. Remove to platter.
2. Add 1 can of the broth to Dutch oven; cook over medium-high heat, scraping bottom of pan to dissolve browned bits. Return roast and any accumulated juices to Dutch oven. Cover; cook in oven 2 1/2 hours.
3. Remove roast from oven. Stir in peppers, onion, tomatoes, chipotle chili, rice and remaining can of broth. Return to oven. Cover; cook until meat is tender and rice is cooked, about 30 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
615 calories, 49% calories from fat, 33 g fat, 14 g saturated fat, 115 mg cholesterol, 835 mg sodium, 41 g carbohydrate, 38 g protein, 3.4 g fiber
Braised Chinese pork roast with greens, turnips and cinnamon rice
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 55 minutes
Yield: 10 servings
This recipe also works well with pork shoulder and a longer cooking time. Star anise and five-spice powder can be found in Asian food markets.
1 boneless pork loin roast, about 3 pounds
Salt, freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable or peanut oil
4 green onions, cut in 1-inch pieces
3 pieces star anise or 1/2 teaspoon five-spice powder
2 cans (14 1/4 ounces each) chicken broth
1 cinnamon stick
1 piece (1-inch) ginger root, sliced
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup each: sugar, sherry or white wine
6 turnips, quartered
1 bunch Chinese broccoli or bok choy, trimmed, coarsely chopped
Cinnamon rice:
1 1/2 cups long-grain rice
3 cups chicken broth
1 cinnamon stick
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Season pork with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large Dutch oven, add pork; cook over medium-high heat until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove to platter.
2. Add onions, star anise, chicken broth, cinnamon, ginger, soy sauce, sugar and sherry to the Dutch oven. Heat to boiling, scraping up bits on bottom of pan. Add reserved meat, turnips and Chinese broccoli. Cover. Place in oven; cook 45 minutes.
3. For rice, combine rice, broth and cinnamon in 1-quart baking dish. Cover; bake until tender, 45 minutes. Discard cinnamon stick.
4. Remove pork from Dutch oven; slice. Pour vegetables and some of the cooking liquid into a deep platter; discard cinnamon stick. Top with pork slices. Serve with cinnamon rice.
Nutrition information per serving:
465 calories, 37% calories from fat, 19 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 85 mg cholesterol, 1,450 mg sodium, 37 g carbohydrate, 35 g protein, 2.2 g fiber
Slow-roasted lamb shanks with braised fennel, lentils and potatoes
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 3 hours
Soaking time: 1 hour
Yield: 4 servings
This recipe, from chef Peggy Ryan of Evanston, makes use of the shank, which needs long, slow cooking in a flavorful liquid until the meat almost falls off the bone. Make sure you have plenty of Italian bread for dipping in the juices. Pancetta is an unsmoked Italian bacon.
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 lamb shanks, about 1 pound each
3 tablespoons fennel seeds, crushed
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 ounces pancetta or bacon, chopped
4 red potatoes, peeled, chopped
3 ribs celery, chopped
1 medium red onion, chopped
1 small fennel bulb, trimmed, chopped
2 cups white wine
3 cups beef broth
1/2 pound dried lentils
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Heat olive oil in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Rub lamb with fennel seeds. Add to Dutch oven. Cook in batches to brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove lamb to large plate.
2. Add garlic and pancetta to pan; cook until golden, about 1 minute. Add potatoes, celery, onion and fennel; cook until vegetables are almost soft, 5 minutes. Remove vegetables to a bowl. Add lamb, white wine and broth to Dutch oven. Heat to a boil. Cover. Cook in oven 2 hours.
3. Meanwhile, soak lentils in water to cover 1 hour; drain. After lamb has cooked 2 hours, stir lentils, reserved vegetables, salt and pepper into Dutch oven. Cover; cook until lentils are tender, about 40 minutes. Serve lamb, lentils and vegetables with cooking juices in large, shallow bowls.
Nutrition information per serving:
750 calories, 35% calories from fat, 30 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 130 mg cholesterol, 1,405 mg sodium, 68 g carbohydrate, 57 g protein, 20 g fiber
