(4 forks)
3231 N. Clark St.
773-549-4400
Hours: 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Tues.-Sun. Closed Mondays.
Credit cards: A, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
If you have to face the world first thing in the morning, this is the next best thing to your own breakfast nook. The warm and relaxed feeling of Orange is enhanced by light orange and yellow walls, colorful artwork and blond wood tables and chairs set with fresh flowers. We liked little touches such as the miniature tin washtubs used to store sugar and cream packets.
On the plate
Inventive and generous breakfast and lunch offerings, from the “Green Eggs and Ham” scramble of eggs, tomatoes, mozzarella, pancetta and pesto to duck confit hash and a steak sandwich on a baguette with garlic, grilled onions and Cabrales cheese (a Spanish blue).
At your service
Friendly servers move the food and drinks along in a timely fashion. They need to, because on weekends the line builds quickly out the door.
Second helpings
Indulge on Sunday mornings with one of the big omelets, such as the three-egger filled with rosemary-scented ham, Cheddar cheese, shallots and Dijon mustard. It’s a savory, scrumptious choice that’s like having eggs and a ham sandwich all at once. The buttermilk pancake stack is fluffy and fabulous, but if French toast appeals instead, try the fun French toast kebab, with skewered pieces of coconut-seasoned toast alternated with fruit sections. The grilled cheese sandwich is rich and oozy with roasted tomato slices, aged Cheddar cheese and caramelized onions.
Take a pass
The strawberries on the French toast kebab are so far out of season they are white almost all the way through; try another fruit for winter, maybe? And the pecans strewn over brioche slices in the pear and goat cheese salad are a fine idea, but they are so dripping with a sugary coating they would work better in a pie.
Thirst quenchers
The juice bar up front will squeeze to order juices from oranges and lemons to vegetables such as cucumber, carrot, beet, tomato and spinach. Orange also appeals to the naturally minded diner with organic tea and coffee. Standard soft drinks are offered for now, but the restaurant plans to launch its own line in the near future.
Extras
The children’s menu keeps the little ones happy with buttermilk “babycakes” pancakes and a kid-friendly list of sandwiches, such as peanut butter and banana, grilled cheese and a “fluffernutter”–you remember, made with marshmallow creme.
Price range
Breakfast dishes, $4.95-$10.95; salads and sandwiches, $3.95-$9.95; side orders, $1.50-$3; kids menu items, $3.95; drinks, $2-$4.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Chicago Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
