(4 forks)
6822 W. North Ave.
773-889-9999
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; 3-10 p.m. Sun.; closed Mon.
Credit cards: A, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Amarind’s is too good to be true. The exterior is a fantasy mini-castle of brick with parking behind. Six months after opening, the interior is unassuming–and spotless. It’s an L-shape space with seating for about 60. The framed Thai artwork on the walls is handsome and tasteful, lighting is soft, the recorded music is vaguely New Age.
On the plate
Chef/owner Rangsan Sutcharit is a graduate of the kitchen at Arun’s, the Thai showcase on North Kedzie Avenue. His technique is flawless, his ingredients truly pristine.
He demonstrates a sure touch with the bold seasonings so loved in Thailand in dish after dish on his 80-item menu. This is high-class fare that just doesn’t cost very much.
At your service
Our smiling female server responded immediately to a request for a recommendation. There are pauses between courses, but the intricacy of the dishes more than justifies this time. On a quiet weeknight, it was impossible to judge how well the small staff would cope with a full house.
Second helpings
Fried foods such as miniature egg roll and fried stuffed chicken wings arrive crisp. Tom yum shrimp soup, the classic hot and sour creation, contains just the right amounts of lemon grass, lime and citrus leaf to leave a haunting aftertaste. The main ingredients in basil chicken and holy basil beef are moist and tender. Spicy curry pork features loin meat with ground chili and peanuts, lime leaves and green beans.
Less obvious dishes include gelatinous dumplings filled with chives, topped with fried garlic and served with chili-black soy sauce, all of which sets taste buds dancing.
The quality of pork and careful cooking set the moo ping apart from most skewered meat dishes. Sweet crab wrapped in tofu was fried and sliced into bite-size pieces and served with a honey sauce. Gingery bay scallop salad, crisp and lively, is a visual delight: A “fence” of carved cucumber and tomato slices surrounds lettuce and tender poached scallops. A creamy but tart coconut-milk soup holds nearly a dozen different vegetables.
Save some room for Amarind’s spinach noodles topped with shrimp, crab, bean sprouts and garlic chives and a sauce of chilies and tamarind.
Take a pass
Only an allergy or prejudice against an ingredient should keep a diner from sampling anything on Sutcharit’s menu.
Thirst quenchers
Thai iced coffee and iced tea are rich enough to stand in for dessert. There is a selection of soft drinks, but at this time no wine or spirits. Bring along a bottle of riesling, sauvignon blanc, dry rose or beer.
Extras
Daily lunch specials are available weekdays for $6.95.
Price range
Appetizers, $3.95-$6.95; soups, $3.95-$6.95; entrees, $7.95-$10.95 (two red snapper dishes are “market price”); fried rice and noodles, $5.95-$8.95; desserts, $3.95.
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Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
