Give all-black a rest. Put your structured suits in storage. After a most somber fall, spring heralds some much-needed levity. “People really need to feel good about themselves,” says Julia Knier, owner of the boutique Public I, 2839 N. Clark St. “And there’s a definite optimism about spring.”
Romance, femininity, exoticism, fantasy and innocence are at the core of the season’s spirit, whether they’re expressed in the ruffle of a hem or the billow of a blouse. “There are no jagged edges,” says store owner Gina Kulbeida of Jolie Joli, 2131 N. Southport Ave. “The punk thing is gone.” Rather, garments this spring are designed to transform and transport the wearer. With that in mind, here are few of the top styles for spring.
Prairie
Right in step with our newfound patriotism comes an update of a look that’s as American as apple pie. The spring 2002 runways were full of references to Annie Oakley and the old TV show “Little House on the Prairie.” Even if you don’t see yourself as an urban cowgirl, you can throw in subtle touches, like a dangling raccoon tail or a bit of fringed suede–or even cowboy boots, the way British designer Luella Bartley did. Ralph Lauren’s classic tiered prairie skirts from the ’70s are back, especially when worn with chunky hip belts. And Marc Jacobs showed looks in gunny-sack, but in bold new hues like violet and orange.
Victorian
After seasons of shredded leather, slit tops and beyond-low jeans, a bit of restraint may be in order. Of course, balancing a high-collar blouse with sexy fitted trousers (Katayone Adeli) or a denim mini (Anna Sui) is the perfect way to update the Victorian look. Look for corseted blouses with lace inserts and rounded sleeves, ribbon and bow details on jackets and skirts, shirts with ruffles, lacy pantyhose and vintage-looking brooches to wear high on the collar–an elegant touch, especially at night.
Shades of Spain
The bohemian trend combines spring’s freewheeling spirit with an appreciation for details, decoration and soft, gauzy fabrications. The chic Yves Saint Laurent black peasant blouse from fall has blossomed into an array of airy, white Mexican-style versions (Louis Vuitton) or sheer, Latino-flavored tops (Betsey Johnson) and skirts. Moroccan motifs also pop up everywhere from Chloe to Prada. If ruffly flamenco skirts, piano shawl fringe or hippie blouses aren’t your thing, you can throw on turquoise beads, carry a suede satchel or try on a pair of hand-stitched flat sandals and pretend you were in Majorca.
Florals
From tiny Liberty of London prints to graphic ’60s daisies (Celine), flower power is back and it’s everywhere–from tank tops to purses, from Lily Pulitzer-type wrap skirts to embroidered roses on peasant tops. Flowers also are the hair accessory of the season, whether you’re wearing big gardenia blossoms a la Billie Holiday or tiny flowers strewn throughout like a child of Woodstock. If you’re not usually the prissy type, try pairing a floral with some fitted denim to keep it casual and modern.
White
It was eerie how even before Sept. 11 there was a cleansing effect with all-white collections. Whether in the simply structured but detailed shirt-dresses of Bruce or the fanciful designs of Viktor & Rolf, white is the big neutral shade of spring. “It’s very soothing but can be tough to wear,” says Jolie Joli’s Kulbeida. Her tip? Airy blouses and full skirts. Stay away from tight white denim, but a structured white suit always looks fresh.
’80s dance
From graffiti prints to Madonna-ish bows, leggings and minis, there’s a “Fame” feel to some of spring’s clothes. The most wearable items are slinky knit wrap tops, which look great with fitted jeans or a skirt, “Flashdance”-style ripped T-shirts paired with flouncy skirts, and lace-up shoes, like the ones Chanel designed in toe-shoe pink. “Ballet flats aren’t for everyone,” says Kulbeida. But athletic shoes with ballet references make for a nice alternative to sneakers.
