Enough, already, of winter and discontent! Let’s put aside the Bard of Avon and search for something to provide us with a measure of contentment instead of whining that the shortest month should be shorter still.
This search should begin at the market, pass though the kitchen and end at the table. Along the way we shall purchase, prepare and eat one of the few crops that thrives in winter, vegetables from the vast family known as greens.
In Rust Belt cities blessed with year-round farmers markets, vegetables at this time of year tend to be drab. Among them, the display of winter greens is as compelling as the green of a Christmas tree. Even in the brightly lighted, overmisted supermarket cases, the bunched collections of giant green leaves catch the eye.
But then what? Uncertainty and insecurity may set in. The list of winter greens is lengthy and can be confusing.
There are several families and some of the offspring aren’t green at all. Also, access to produce grown around the nation and the world has created year-round availability for greens once associated only with winter or summer.
The legend of greens as overcooked, tissue-textured, pork- and vinegar-flavored, bitter-tasting side dish is a creation of the antebellum South of this country and, like most Southern legends, just won’t go away.
Some people like them that way. Perhaps the great Cajun chef Paul Prudhomme caught the spirit of this genre best when he titled a recipe containing collards, mustard greens and spinach “jumbled greens.”
Still, there are other preparations and, because different greens are relatively interchangeable, a few methods can carry the home cook a long way.
Although greens are bitter in varying degrees, in moderation or when counterbalanced with sweetness, their bitterness can be wonderfully stimulating.
Stores of nutrients
Even better than a spoonful of sugar to help the greens go down and spur consumption is the blessing of the medical community. Greens are nutritional treasure-troves. Across the board, greens are high in beneficial fiber, possess large amounts of vitamins C and E as well as beta carotene, all antioxidants that appear to help prevent cancer. Dark greens contain significant amounts of folic acid, plus essential minerals, particularly iron and calcium, as well as potassium. To ice the cake are plenty of phytochemicals, micronutrients whose benefits are only beginning to be understood.
Such a combination of nutritional virtue and bold flavor appears to have substantially increased our appetite for leafy greens.
“Greens have been flying out of our place,” says Tom Cornille, a wholesale green grocer in South Water Market. “Years ago they were taboo, used mostly for soul food. In those days, if I received an order for a case of turnip greens, I would call the restaurant to be sure they didn’t want turnip bottoms. Now I’m sending turnip tops to Spago, escarole to the upscale Italian places, dandelion greens to Greektown and purslane to the Peninsula and NoMi.
“Why not? With their bright colors, texture and taste, they have culinary value to a chef who is trying to do something different. Furthermore, they are readily available, reasonably priced and nutritious.”
They also, Cornille notes, are better in winter than in summer because heat robs them of flavor and texture.
“Our winter greens are very popular with our customers,” says Carla Ziegler, a longtime produce specialist at Treasure Island, 3160 N. Broadway.
“They know greens can do good things for them. Kale is No. 1, then Swiss chard and spinach, of course. More people are cooking greens at home, especially young couples.
“When they ask me how to cook them, I tell them they are interchangeable and can be served as a side dish or mixed with pasta or soup.”
With the ingredient exchange between East and West, it is not surprising to find the menu of greens expanding. Some local supermarkets may stock mizuna (mildly spicy, feathery leaves from Japan), pea shoots (small leaves and tendrils of pea stems) and baby bok choy. Look for a continued influx of greens from Asia.
In contrast to the current situation, over the centuries greens have been more talked about than eaten in the kitchens of the prosperous. Spinach is the prime exception, as popular among famous chefs as with hostesses planning a brunch.
Grouping the greens
Cooking experts usually put leafy greens in two piles. Most are available at this time of year:
– Subtle (lettuces, spinach, beet).
– Bitter, spicy or peppery (collards, kale, mustard and turnip greens, arugula, dandelion, broccoli rabe, watercress, sorrel, chicory).
Buying the greens
Among members of the family, the favored color is dark green, though a rainbow of colors are available, most notably with kale. Look for fresh, firm leaves with no holes or yellow-tinged edges. Prices should be low or moderate.
Care and storage
Remove and discard any wilted leaves as soon as you return home. If the leaves are slightly limp, soak in cold water to revive them. Wash several times in a sink full of water, lifting them out of the water each time so dirt sinks to the bottom. Remove bruised leaves. Pat dry and place in a plastic bag or wrap in a clean towel first. Store in crisper.
Cooking the greens
The best ways to cook greens are to simmer, steam or stir-fry them.
If cooking greens immediately after washing, drain but do not dry them. Remove stems and cut leaves crosswise into 1-inch pieces, place stems and leaves in pot or pan, add no liquid and cook, covered, until soft and tender. If you want to store just-cooked greens, plunge into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Drain, pat dry, wrap and store in refrigerator or freezer for up to three days.
Yield is difficult to estimate. In general, a pound of fresh greens will yield 2 to 3 half-cup servings, with 20 calories per half-cup before dressing.
Add greens to soups, pasta dishes, casseroles or toss with other ingredients and serve as side dishes. Greens make notably good partners with bacon, onion, potato, rice, beans, corn, pasta and nuts.
A few greens up close
Kale (left): A headless member of the cabbage family, kale delivers more nutrition per ounce than any other green. It contains lots of calcium, potassium, antioxidants such as beta carotene. Also iron and fiber. The kale siblings have names such as dinosaur, purple, Russian and rainbow. But beware of these beauties. Kale is very bitter; combine it with sweet ingredients such as onion.
Collards: Softer and sweeter than kale, collards are found in the market year-round but most visible in winter. Cut out stems and large veins.
Mustard greens: Belongs to the same family as kale, collards, broccoli, kohlrabi. Can be found canned or frozen. Beware pitted leaves, fibrous stems. Store in plastic in the refrigerator up to a week. This green is a good source of vitamins A and C, thiamine and riboflavin. Season with onion, garlic, ham, salt pork or bacon. Steam, saute or simmer, but do not overcook.
Swiss chard (right): Perhaps the most charming of the leafy greens. Chard brings with it a considerable amount of vitamin A, but is high in sodium as well. Also high in calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium. In cooking, use in place of spinach. Stems require more time than leaves, so cook them 4 or 5 minutes before adding leaves. Saute in oil (with onion and garlic, if desired), cover and cook till tender. No cooking liquid needed.
— William Rice
Cooking times for greens
Here are minimum times; cook further according to taste:
– 3 minutes for spinach, lettuces, sorrel, arugula, chicory, watercress
– 5 minutes for beet greens, Swiss chard, mustard greens, dandelion
– 10 minutes for kale, collards, turnips
Tips and uses
When preparing pasta with greens, use the greens’ cooking water for the pasta to add flavor.
When using raw greens for salads, dry leaves thoroughly so the dressing will not be weakened by water nor run off wet leaves. (Eat only very young greens raw.)
Whole leaves may be stuffed; chopped leaves can be used in soups or stuffings.
Greens respond well to dressings containing citrus or vinegar.
The cabbage and beet families marry well with spicy preparations of pork or fish.
Some recipes combine roots and leaves of the same vegetable.
— W.R.
Ravioli with greens, sweet potato puree and pistachio sauce
Preparation time: 50 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Yield : 6 servings
Michael Taus combines the spicing of India with the ravioli of Italy in this three-part dish from his restaurant, Zealous. You can simplify this dish by eliminating the puree, if you like, or make the puree and sauce a day ahead. We’ve also adapted and simplified the dish by using packaged wontons instead of homemade ravioli dough. Garam masala is a curry spice mix available at Indian markets and some supermarkets. Regular curry powder may be used instead.
1 sweet potato
1 small bunch chives, chopped
1/4 cup shelled pistachios
1/2 teaspoon garam masala
1 1/4teaspoons salt
3/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1/2 medium onion, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon minced, each: lemon grass, ginger root, garlic
2 cups chopped greens, such as collards, stems removed
1 teaspoon black or yellow mustard seeds
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 package (12 ounces) refrigerated wonton wrappers
1 egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon water
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Roast sweet potato until soft, about 45 minutes. Let cool. Cut in half; peel halves. Dice one of the halves; reserve the other.
2. Meanwhile, heat 2 inches of water in small saucepan to a boil; cook chives 1 minute. Drain; chill in ice water. Drain. Heat a large skillet on high; add pistachios. Cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Combine pistachios, 1/4 teaspoon of the garam masala, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and the chives in bowl of a food processor. Process to chop. Add olive oil through the feed tube in a slow stream. Puree 1 minute. Pour into bowl; set aside.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon of the melted butter and peanut oil in the large skillet over medium heat. Add onion; cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add lemon grass, ginger and garlic; cook 30 seconds. Add greens and mustard seeds; cook until greens wilt, about 3 minutes. Add diced sweet potato and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Set aside.
4. Combine reserved sweet potato half, brown sugar, pepper, remaining 1 tablespoon of the melted butter, 1/4 teaspoon of the garam masala and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt in bowl of a food processor. Puree until smooth. Set aside.
5. Cut 36 of the wontons into rounds with ravioli or cookie cutter. Place 1 tablespoon of the greens mixture on each of 18 rounds. Paint edges with egg mixture. Top with remaining rounds; pinch to seal edges. Heat a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Cook ravioli, in small batches, until al dente, about 3 minutes per batch. Remove with slotted spoon to platter. Keep warm.
6. Meanwhile, heat sweet potato puree over low heat in heavy saucepan. Spoon puree into the center of six plates. Place 3 ravioli on each plate. Spoon pistachio sauce around the puree and on top of the ravioli.
Nutrition information per serving:
525 calories, 63% calories from fat, 37 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 810 mg sodium, 41 g carbohydrate, 8 g protein, 4.3 g fiber
Greens salad with pan-roasted vegetables
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
– Kaminsky Thomas, chef of RL restaurant, combines leafy mustard greens, spinach and herbs with half-a-dozen cooked vegetables in this super salad.
Greens:
1 bunch mustard greens, torn into pieces
1 small bunch each, leaves only: baby spinach, mint, arugula
Vegetables:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots
1 small bunch asparagus, cut into 2-inch pieces
4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, sliced
1 small each: red, yellow pepper, thinly sliced
1 zucchini, cut into 1/4-inch strips
1 yellow squash, cut into 1/4-inch strips
Vinaigrette:
2 tablespoons chopped, each: fresh tarragon leaves, shallots
1 tablespoon chopped, each: basil, chives
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup each: red wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar
1 1/4 cups extra-virgin olive oil
1. Tear and wash greens, place in large bowl. Cover; refrigerate until serving time.
2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat; add shallots. Cook until soft, 3 minutes. Add asparagus; cook 1 minute. Add mushrooms; cook 1 minute. Add peppers; cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add zucchini and yellow squash; cook until tender, 2 minutes.
3. For vinaigrette, combine tarragon, shallots, basil, chives, garlic, salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Whisk in vinegars. Slowly whisk in olive oil. Taste; adjust seasonings.
4. Toss chilled greens with the dressing. Divide among eight plates. Top with pan-roasted vegetables.
Nutrition information per serving:
390 calories, 84% calories from fat, 38 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 325 mg sodium, 12 g carbohydrate, 4.2 g protein, 4 g fiber
Swiss chard gratin
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Adapted from “The Herbfarm Cookbook,” by Jerry Traunfeld.
Gratin:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons plus 1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs
1 pound Swiss chard, any color
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium shallot, or 1/2 small onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
Sauce:
2 tablespoons each: unsalted butter, flour
1 1/2cups whole or low-fat milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 bay leaf
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme
1 cup (4 ounces) grated Gruyere cheese
1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Coat the interior of a 11/2-quart gratin or baking dish with the softened butter. Spoon in 2 tablespoons of the bread crumbs; tilt the dish until they cover the buttered surface.
2. Slice the chard stems and leaves into 11/2-inch pieces. Wash in cold water; drain in a colander but don’t dry them. Heat the olive oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic; cook, stirring constantly, until softened but not browned, about 1 minute. Add the chard. Sprinkle with salt. Cover tightly. Steam until chard has wilted to half its original volume, 2 to 3 minutes. Uncover; cook the chard, turning occasionally with tongs, until all the water in the pan evaporates, 5 minutes. Season with pepper; set aside.
3. For the sauce, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour; cook, whisking, until mixture bubbles up and turns lighter in color, about 1 minute. Pour in the cold milk all at once; whisk vigorously. Add salt and bay leaf. Heat, whisking, until it comes to a boil and thickens, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low; simmer 2 minutes. Stir in nutmeg, oregano, thyme and 1/2 cup of the cheese. Remove from heat; discard bay leaf.
5. Mix cooked chard and sauce; spoon into prepared pan. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup bread crumbs and remaining 1/2 cup cheese. Bake until golden and bubbly, 35 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
260 calories, 64% calories from fat, 19 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 605 mg sodium, 14 g carbohydrate, 10 g protein, 1.6 g fiber
Sauteed kale with lemon
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Yield: 2 or 3 servings
This simple side dish was developed in the Tribune test kitchen.
1 bunch kale, trimmed, cut into 2-inch pieces, washed
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes or to taste
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1. Heat 1 inch of water in a large pot to a boil. Add the kale and salt. Cover; cook, stirring once, until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Drain.
2. Return kale to the pot. Drizzle with olive oil; reheat. Add lemon juice, red pepper and Parmesan; toss.
Nutrition information per serving:
150 calories, 67% calories from fat, 12 g fat, 2.9 g saturated fat, 7 mg cholesterol, 960 mg sodium, 8 g carbohydrate, 6 g protein, 2.4 g fiber
