(2 forks)
13 Grant Square, Grant Square Shopping Center, Hinsdale
630-323-8500
Hours: 6 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 6 a.m.-8:30 p.m.
Credit cards: D, M, V
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
First impressions
On the one hand, Grant Square Restaurant is a coffee shop. On the other hand, it’s in Hinsdale. This combination creates a loftier version of the familiar icon. For example, there’s no revolving-pie display, but you’ll find the ubiquitous menu-the-size-of-a-telephone-book. No counter, but lots of booths (enough to seat 150). And the walls are decorated with framed prints, not autographed 8-by-10’s of Frankie Avalon, Buddy Hackett and Debbie Reynolds.
At your service
Hostesses greet patrons with a maternal affection that we rarely see outside our family and “Nick at Night” sitcoms. (When we’re handed a menu, we’re used to hearing the day’s specials, not “You have such a pretty smile!”) And every waitress we met seemed to have a genuine stake in our welfare.
On the plate
The menu offers a predictable lineup of dishes: club sandwiches, hamburgers, soda fountain creations–but there are ethnic offerings, too, including stir-fries, pastas and pita sandwiches. Even if the dishes don’t shimmer with innovations from the kitchen (we’re guessing they call them cooks, not chefs), we were satisfied with our meals.
Second helpings
Our favorite, the Grecian salad, starts with a foundation of crisp lettuce and adds a battery of fresh fixings: kalamata olives, anchovies, bell pepper, sliced tomato and a bounty of feta cheese chunks. The vinaigrette, its flavor amplified with red wine, oregano and garlic, is a perfect complement. Greek chicken, offered Wednesdays and Saturdays, dresses up half a bird (marinated in lemon and olive oil) with a thick, citrusy gravy that extends its flavors to the side of roasted potatoes. Breakfast makes a nice impression here–and the line outside the door on a recent Sunday proves that the word is out. Many omelets are offered, and though we tried only the feta and spinach, we can’t help but believe it’s one of the best. For dessert, the thick, ultra-creamy chocolate milk shake is served with a dollop of whipped cream.
Take a pass
Sides were often unsatisfactory. The creamy coleslaw relies too heavily on vinegar. Cream of broccoli soup suffered from excessive flour. Fries arrive hot, but they’re nothing special.
Thirst quenchers
Coffee and soda pretty much define the pickings. No alcohol is served.
Extras
The basket that arrives on the table is brimming with fluffy rolls made fresh every morning. Dinner entrees are a bargain: The price includes potato or rice, soup, salad and dessert.
Price range
Appetizers, $3-$4.45; salads and soups, $1.55-$7.35; sandwiches, $3.50-$7.35; entrees, $6.50-$11.50; beverages, $1-$2.10; desserts, $1.20-$4.35.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
