You won’t find many people who will turn down the chance to sample new soups and stews. Elemental, filling and comforting, big bowls of food cross all cultural lines and appeal to all ages, so it was a pleasure to dive into a new cookbook, “The Big Book of Soups & Stews,” by Maryana Vollstedt (Chronicle, $19.95).
Although the choice of the book was obvious, the choice of recipes was not. There are 262 recipes here, spread over chapters divided among meat, poultry, seafood, vegetables and legumes, along with sections on cream and chilled soups. Building blocks such as stocks, topping and garnish ideas, and breads to go alongside also are included, taking care of the soupy necessities. And all the textural bases are covered, with ingredients from beans and rice to meatballs and shellfish filling out the recipe ideas.
We ended up with three recipes that seemed particularly appealing. The first was a sunny-sounding Cheddar, chicken and corn chowder, that did indeed make a glowing cup of soup, scattered with bits of bell pepper, corn, redskin potatoes and chopped tomato. The half-cup of grated Cheddar adds richness–but not too much–and chopped bacon lends a welcome smoky undertone to the milky broth. Although the vegetables here are far from in season, the recipe serves a splash of summer that is worth sipping all day.
Another choice, cream of mushroom soup with pecans, became an instant favorite among the tasters. From a velvety base of chicken broth and half-and-half, the recipe adds layers of texture and aroma with chopped mushrooms, leeks, onions and a spoonful or two of sherry, everything neatly topped with the crunch of chopped pecans. Some might find this very rich soup best served in small portions at the beginning of a meal, rather than the full bowls suggested in the book. Either way, it’s a keeper for entertaining.
The one dud was the oven beef beer stew, with a thin flavor and watery consistency, rather than the hearty, sturdy dish advertised by such a substantial title.
You will be able to find plenty of other options, though, along with a helpful glossary of cooking terms, tips and techniques that lend a helping hand to less-confident cooks.
Aside from that, the main fault here seems to be that the publishers shortchanged the book with their design decisions. A cookbook about “serious comfort food,” as the cover promises, would best be served by the inclusion of some mouthwatering photographs. Yet except for the cover shot, “Soups & Stews” lacks not only photos but any illustration whatsoever–not even simple line drawings. The only color on the pages is provided by the brown and orange lettering of the text, which calls to mind one season only–fall–and not cozy winter dining.
But if you can look past the plainness of the book, it’s worth exploring the numerous recipes here. You may not take on even a dozen of them, much less 262, but it will be cold for a while yet; there’s time enough to cook.
Cheddar chicken and corn chowder
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
From “The Big Book of Soups and Stews.”
3 slices bacon, diced
1 cup chopped yellow onion
1/2 green bell pepper, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 cups chicken stock or broth
1 1/2 cups unpeeled cubed red potatoes (about 2 medium)
1 1/2 cups corn kernels, fresh or frozen
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups milk
2 cups cubed cooked chicken breast
1 cup seeded, peeled, chopped tomato
1/2 cup grated Cheddar cheese
3/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. In a large Dutch oven over medium heat, cook bacon until crisp. Transfer bacon to a plate, leaving 1 tablespoon drippings in Dutch oven.
2. Add onion, bell pepper and garlic and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add stock and potatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in corn.
3. In a bowl, blend the flour and milk. Stir into soup. Increase heat to medium-high and stir until thickened, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and add chicken, reserved bacon, tomato, cheese, salt and pepper. Simmer, uncovered until flavors are blended and cheese is melted, about 15 minutes longer.
Nutrition information per serving (calculated by the Tribune):
365 calories, 36% of calories from fat, 15 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 30 g carbohydrates, 29 g protein, 995 mg sodium, 3.2 g fiber
Cream of mushroom soup with pecans
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
From “The Big Book of Soups and Stews.”
1/4 cup butter or margarine
1 cup chopped yellow onion
1 leek, white and light green parts only, sliced
1 pound white mushrooms, finely chopped
1 clove garlic minced
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 cups chicken stock or broth
1 1/2 cups half-and-half or whipping cream
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons dry sherry or white wine
1/4 cup chopped pecans for topping
1. In a soup pot over medium heat, melt butter. Add onion and leek and saute for 3 minutes.
2. Add mushrooms, garlic and lemon juice and saute until vegetables are soft, about 5 minutes longer.Add flour and stir until bubbly. Add stock and stir until thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Add remaining ingredients except pecans.
3. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until flavors are blended, about 10 minutes.
4. Ladle into bowls and sprinkle with chopped nuts.
Nutrition information per serving (calculated by the Tribune):
250 calories, 66% of calories from fat, 19 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 45 mg cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 7 g protein, 590 mg sodium, 2.6 g fiber
