(3 forks)
5414 W. Devon Ave.
773-631-1311
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat.
Credit Cards: Not accepted
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
A lonely neon sign in the front window is the only clue there’s a restaurant on this desolate strip near the Edgebrook train station, and you’ll miss it if you blink. Inside, a mere eight wooden tables are housed in a narrow, intimate space, replete with a painted antique tin ceiling and two lazy overhead fans. Families with children are certainly welcome: Artwork from local kids adds charm without schmaltz amid black-and-white photos of old Edgebrook.
On the plate
Hearty, all-American fare: soups, sandwiches and blue-plate specials like meat loaf and roasted turkey. Everything is made from scratch, including dessert.
Second helpings
“Barb’s old-fashioned meat loaf” is an evenly textured, toothsome slice seasoned with chili powder and tomatoes. A classic, tomatoey sloppy Joe, mounded onto a fresh kaiser roll, hides flecks of green pepper. Two soups are made daily. The vegetable is loaded with carrot, potato, beans and spinach. Tomato gets a boost from black pepper and allspice. Most dishes come with a choice of sides that include mashed potatoes (good though bland); browned wedges of roasted potatoes that are rendered soft inside; smoky baked beans with bacon and onions; and some of the best coleslaw we’ve ever had (extra-crisp shards of cabbage and carrot with just the right amount of mayo). Key lime pie is as good as any seafood house version: crunchy graham cracker crust, a perfect yellow filling and a light topping of whipped cream.
Take a pass
Despite well-grilled strips of chicken breast, the Caesar salad suffers from a weak dressing and pale garnishes of out-of-season tomato. Tuna salad is fresh but swims in mayo. “Spicy shredded barbequed beef” isn’t very spicy, and it borders on greasy.
Thirst quenchers
RC Cola, Diet-Rite, Dr. Pepper, root beer and 7-Up; iced or hot tea, lemonade and coffee; milk or apple juice for kids.
At your service
Barbara Mott not only owns the place, but she also hustles in and out of the kitchen, taking orders, clearing tables and delivering the food, all at a remarkable pace. The day we visited, the dining room was packed for nearly two straight hours and we never heard a complaint.
Extras
Just for kids are a PB&J, hot dogs, mac & cheese, baby meat loaf or turkey plates. You get a dish of homemade chocolate chip and snickerdoodle cookies before getting the check.
Price range
Sandwiches, $4.50-$7.75; salads, $2.50-$7.25; blue plates, $6.95-$7.25; kid’s items, $2.50-$6; soups, $2.25-$3; beverages, $1.25-$1.50; supper platters (after 4 p.m.), $6.25-$8.25.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Chicago Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
