Big, bouncy curls were all over the runways for spring 2002. Celine, Gucci and Chloe are just three of the houses that chose soft, sexy hair to complement their designs.
But “success on the runway” doesn’t always translate into “everyone’s wearing it.” Poker straight hair has been the standard for chic since the mid-’90s, and designers have put curls on the runways several times in the past few seasons without the look transferring to the street.
Will women give up the straightening gels and flat irons they’ve gotten hooked on in the past few years in favor of waves and volume? Yes, says British hair expert Charles Worthington, who reports that big hair is back: “It is so prevalent now, from New York fashion week to London fashion week.”
“Volume is definitely back in a big way,” he adds. But “not old-fashioned stiff volume. It’s about waves and movement and sexy, natural volume in the hair.”
Chicago stylist Sally Knollenberg, whose devoted following has been noted in Harper’s Bazaar, has this to say about the real-life viability of softer styles: “I think it’s going to happen this time. It is a natural progression from the styles we’ve been seeing, and it works with fashion. The clothes are ultra-feminine with lots of textures. They call for hair with some texture.”
So how to achieve the look?
Start with a great cut. Knollenberg and Worthington stress layers over all-one-length. “Have long layers cut in for movement, or consider a razor cut, [which] is good because it gives a soft edge,” says Worthington.
Next, rethink your hair products. You may be used to seeing words like “relaxing” and “anti-curl” on the bottles and tubes that collect on your vanity. Set them aside in favor of elixirs that boast root-lift and volumizing properties.
“If you shampoo and condition with volumizing products, it instantly gives your hair a bit of substance, so when you start to curl or wave your hair, there is something for the curl or wave to hang on to,” Worthington says.
Before drying, the experts recommend using a root-lift spray to give hair “guts” and ensure that your style will last all day. Make sure you apply the spray right at the roots, then rub a little into your hands and distribute it through the rest of your hair. Now dry.
After drying comes the fun part. “Then you can start to very gently curl your hair to give it these very loose, soft, tumbly waves,” Worthington says.
Styling products are the key to keeping the big-hair style from looking dated. “Use the root-lifting, volumizing products. Teasing is to be used sparingly,” says Knollenberg. Worthington adds: “When you start to backcomb and tease hair too much, you start to get helmet head and hair loses its sexiness.”
“I think it is far nicer for hair to have a sort of free movement to it,” he says. “So having masses of volume on top is not essential, just a little bit of root-lift is good. These modern styles are all about having a nice loose wave.”
Ready to start thinking big? Check out these products
Aveda’s Be Curly Curl Enhancing Lotion, $16, at Aveda salons.
Charles Worthington Big Hair Shampoo and Big Hair Conditioner (shown), Lift Off Hair Spray and Putty In Your Hands Push-Into-Shape Texturizer, $5.99 each, at Walgreens stores.
Wella Liquid Hair Reconstructor, about $16, and Style Builder, about $12; both at Elizabeth Arden, 919 N. Michigan Ave., 312-988-9191.
Fudge Oomf Shampoo, Fudge Oomf Conditioner and Fudge Oomf Booster, $12.95 each; call 888-383-4387.
Lamas Beauty Botanicals Rice Protein Volumizing Shampoo, $10.50; call 877-604-6521.
Frizz-reducing Bio Ionic Ion-Brushes, $30.50-$33.99, at Harbor View Salon, 3200 N. Lake Shore Drive, 773-472-2225.
Creating this look
1. Spritz hair with styling spray and blow-dry to create what stylist Jillian Seely, who created the look here, calls “a clean, smooth palette with no flyaways.”
2. Spritz each section with a little spray and wind onto Conair Hot Sticks. Leave the curlers in for only a few minutes, Seely says, because you’re going for volume and fullness, not tight curls.
3. Go back through the hair, curling random pieces with a curling iron.
4. Use a crimping iron to create visual interest in the front.
5. Rub some texturizer between your hands and run them through your hair to break up the curls and add what hairstylist Charles Worthington calls “guts and oomph.”
6. Use a teasing comb to lightly pull out the curls. Remember, not too much teasing.
7. Photo right: Create a quick updo by twisting up the back sections and securing them with hairpins.
