You can help your woody plants be healthier this year by pruning their branches in the next couple weeks before their leaves start sprouting.
Eliminating unhealthy and inconvenient branches makes trees and shrubs healthier and more attractive.
The pruning regimen that’s best for one species of plant may not be best for another, but there are some general procedures that are appropriate to most trees and shrubs.
The first step in pruning a plant is taking a good look at it to figure out which branches should be removed. Start pruning by removing branches that are dead, dying, diseased or defective.
A common defect that should be corrected at this time of year is the “crossing” or “rubbing” branch. A crossing branch is one that is growing in such a way that its bark touches another branch or the tree trunk, and failure to remove such branches can lead to problems later.
Prune branches by making a clean cut at the base of the branch, but leave the branch collar intact. The collar is the rounded extension at the point where the branch meets the trunk or its parent branch.
Hand pruners are best for branches smaller than about a quarter-inch. There has been a lot of advancement in pruner technology over the last few years, and garden centers and home improvement stores now carry gear-assisted pruners that cut through small branches with minimal effort.
Loppers that have pruner blades at the ends of long handles are good for branches up to about an inch. Saws still may be needed for bigger branches, though.
If the tree is so large that you can’t reach most of the branches while standing on the ground, you may be better off hiring a tree service to do the work. Trees approaching utility lines are also best left to the pros. If you think you can tackle a heavy branch on a mature tree, then use the three-cut method.
Saw a notch on the underside of the branch a few inches out from the collar. Then move the saw to the top of the branch a few inches farther out and saw until the branch breaks. Finally, saw off the stump of the branch at the collar.
This method keeps the falling branch from tearing away bark on the parent branch as it breaks free.
You don’t have to seal the wound left when you cut a branch. In fact, sealing the wound can create an incubator for infection and do more harm than good.
In general when you’re pruning a woody plant you’ll be removing one-fourth to one-third of the longer, older branches at their bases. Young trees that will be large at maturity must be trained while they are young; their growth must be controlled and directed so they have a sturdy, tapered trunk and well-spaced branches no more than half the diameter of the trunk.
Prune young trees by selectively removing branches at their bases. Never try to round or otherwise shape a tree by cutting off the ends of branches. The shaping effect will be short-lived, and you’ll ruin the health of the tree.
When considering removing a few branches to improve the tree’s shape, try to imagine the tree viewed from above. The tree should be shaped somewhat like a wheel, with the trunk as the hub and the branches as evenly placed spokes.
If the main stem of the young tree divides into two branches of nearly equal size, one of the branches should be removed while the tree is young. If a tree’s main trunk is allowed to develop in a Y shape, there’s a good chance the trunk will split later if pushed by a strong wind.
Young shrubs with broad leaves that fall off in autumn rather than needles that stay on year-round usually can be trimmed around this time of year to create a thicker, bushier appearance in the growing season.
It’s too early in the year for shearing evergreen hedges, though. Cutting off the surface needles now may leave the plant looking spotty and haggard. New needles are not growing now, and it will take time for the plant to recover from a shearing.
The Ohio State University Extension Service suggests special care in pruning spruce and pine trees. Both types of trees produce buds in the spring. If all the buds are removed, the tree can’t replace them and its growth for the year will be stunted.
By selectively removing some of the new-growth buds by hand at the proper time, you can help direct the size and shape of the trees. But you’ll need to consult an expert for advice specific to the species of trees you own.
Apple and pear trees should be pruned to give the advantage to the stems with the greatest potential for bearing fruit. Removing some of the less-productive branches allows more light to reach the interior of the tree, improving the quality of the fruit.
