(3 forks)
3412 N. Sheffield Ave.
773-388-2727
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Wed., Thurs., Sun.; 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: M, V
Noise factor: Conversationally Challenged
First impressions
This is not your typical Wrig-leyville watering hole. Instead, on entering Twist, you might have stepped into a postcard of a tapas bar in Spain. Tables line one long wall of the storefront setting. A bar, open kitchen and counter with six stools line the opposite wall. Toss in more seating inside the front window, black walls with mosaic tiles behind the kitchen space, ultra-dim lighting and an ongoing ebb and flow of 20-something Chicago in search of a bargain.
On the plate
In Spain, tapas are small bites available at bars during the long gap between the end of work and the beginning of dinner. People stroll from bar to bar, ordering sparkling wine or sherry and a tapa or two at each stop. Most of Chicago’s tapas operations have turned the idea into full restaurants. Here, the menu lists 10 tapas frias (cold dishes), 18 tapas caliente (hot dishes) and another dozen non-traditional “twisted” tapas. All are served on small plates. Diners can choose one or two to make a pre-dinner snack or order more to make a meal.
At your service
The servers–despite the crowd and the noise–are cheerful and knowledgeable.
Second helpings
Ingredients are fresh and of top quality. Although hot tapas are more intriguing than the cold, the creamy garlic potato salad is not to be missed. Hot tapas worth trying include grilled beef tenderloin crusted with blue cheese; sweet and piquant baked dates wrapped with bacon, served with roasted red pepper sauce; and chicken breast with lemon-caper sauce. Grilled shrimp with olive oil, garlic and red pepper flakes, and grilled squid with lemon-herb vinaigrette testify to the chef’s deftness at the grill. Jalapeno gnocchi with roasted red pepper sauce is a tasty representative of the Italian-accented twisted tapas category.
Take a pass
A salad of marinated shrimp, scallops and squid comes in a generous portion but lacks personality. Artichoke hearts stuffed with a pepper-accented crab meat were marred by chewy artichoke leaves.
Thirst quenchers
Sangria is the No. 1 beverage choice. Beers hail from Mexico as well as the United States. Wines are from France, Spain and the U.S.
Extras
Few true tapas bars offer desserts, but Twist does. Flan is firm but tender and not too sweet. Rice pudding with chocolate and cinnamon has the same perfect sweet-savory balance.
Price range
Tapas are priced from $2.95-$8.95, with only a few more than $6.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Chicago Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
