Once a year, at Easter, the egg stops being an icon for artists, cooks and nutritionists and becomes a painted treasure to be hunted by credulous children and, for adults, a source of sustenance at brunches across the country.
But though such traditions may alter little over the years, it is increasingly obvious that the egg has changed.
Health concerns have created a market for products that promise the best of the egg without the worst, or that come from chickens fed special diets or eggs customized to the level of fat with which you are comfortable.
And what was once thought true about the egg and cholesterol has been relegated to history.
Last week, for example, the egg’s “handlers” (the promotion arm of the egg industry), staged an “Eggstravaganza” in New York City to focus public attention on some positive developments in Eggland.
The Washington, D.C., Egg Nutrition Center cited survey after survey completed in recent years to support the theory that the intake of dietary cholesterol found in the egg, among other foods, does not cause blood cholesterol levels to rise and presents a lesser risk of heart disease than previusly supposed.
The industry still is smiling at the decision by the American Heart Association to allow consumption of an egg a day in its 2000 dietary guidelines for healthy people, more than doubling the three-eggs-a-week guideline issued in 1996. (Most recent data suggest that cutting down on saturated fats, not dietary cholesterol, is more effective in lowering elevated blood levels of total cholesterol.)
A second note was struck soundly as well: Research is gradually establishing that nutrients contained in eggs help other areas within the human body such as eyesight, memory and muscle tissue. For example, eggs contain the carotenoid lutein, which is thought to fight atherosclerosis and, along with zeaxanthin, macular degeneration, which leads to blindness. Eggs also contain choline, an essential ingredient that may help develop memory, according to a study published in the Journal of the American College of Nutrition.
A “profile” of eggs, based on USDA figures, shows a large egg contains 75 calories, 5 grams of total fat (1.5 grams of which are saturated) and 213 milligrams of cholesterol. It also provides about 10 percent of the recommended dietary allowance of protein, plus high amounts of vitamin K and some selenium, iodine and riboflavin.
The salmonella factor
While the egg’s reputation has been repaired with much of the nutritional establishment, there also are ongoing concerns about other health risks, such as the presence of salmonella in eggs.
Caroline Smith DeWall, director of the food safety program at the Center for Science in the Public Interest, acknowledges a “slight decline” in illness caused by salmonella bacteria. She still expresses doubt that the industry is regulated adequately.
The Bush administration is satisfied with “voluntary industry programs,” she says, and is “dragging its feet” instead of implementing on-farm inspections that would result in bacteria-infected eggs being sent to pasteurization plants.
One factor in the decline of food-borne illness from raw eggs is that a much larger percentage of the egg yield is being processed for on-the-go consumers who do not cook from scratch.
New choices
A recent visit to the egg display at a Treasure Island store disclosed four choices in addition to plain eggs:
Amish Hills organic eggs from a “small family farm” in Pennsylvania ($3 a dozen); Nulaid Egg Product, “cholesterol free, lactose-free, fat-free” ($3); Organic Valley Family of Farms grade A large brown eggs “from free range hens, 100 percent organic, produced without hormones and antibiotics” ($2); Gold Circle Farms grade A large eggs, “all natural, vegetarian feed, cage free, Dha Omega 3” ($1.59).
There are more. Other egg products include Eggland’s Best cholesterol-free eggs for those on special diets.
And two brands are making life easier for those who want to cook with raw eggs–think meringue, mayonnaise and mousse–but worry about salmonella. Eggology pasteurized liquid egg whites (also popular for people on high-protein and restricted-cholesterol diets; available at Treasure Island stores) and pasteurized shelled eggs such as Davidson’s, available in Dominick’s stores.
The American Egg Board, based in Park Ridge, points out that hormones “are not fed to poultry in the United States” and argues in its pamphlet, “Eggs . . . Fact and Fiction,” that “the nutrient content of eggs is not affected by whether they are fertile, free-range, organic or vegetarian.” But “varying the diet of hens has produced a variety of nutrient-enhanced eggs.”
Among the successes cited: eggs with less fat, lower cholesterol and higher levels of vitamins and omega-3 fatty acids.
Stepping back, however, our infatuation with the egg is not just chemical- and health-related. It remains a marvelous food, inexpensive, versatile and quick to prepare.
From the test kitchen
Best way to hard-cook an egg
To avoid getting a green layer around the yolks, it is best to not overcook the eggs. Here’s how: Place eggs in a single layer in a saucepan. Cover the eggs with cold water by 1 inch. Heat the water just to a boil, remove from the heat. Cover and let sit 12-15 minutes. Drain the hot water from the eggs and gently place in ice water until completely cooled, 15 minutes.
To peel the eggs, crack the egg shell all over, then gently peel the shell under cold running water, or in the bowl of ice water.
— Corrine Kozlak
Lemon floating islands
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Chilling time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 1 hour
Yield: 6 servings
Adapted from a recipe by Daisy A. Voigt in “The Church Ladies’ Divine Desserts.”
2 cups milk
3 tablespoons plus 1/3 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
4 large egg yolks, well beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon lemon extract
3 large egg whites
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1. Mix milk, 3 tablespoons of the sugar and salt in the top of a double boiler. Heat over boiling water almost to a boil, about 5 minutes. Slowly add the beaten egg yolks to the hot milk. Strain the mixture; return to the double boiler. Cook over an inch of simmering water, stirring constantly, until the custard coats a metal spoon, about 5 minutes. (Do not overheat or it will curdle.) Remove mixture from heat; stir in the extracts. Pour into a serving bowl or into individual custard cups; chill 2 hours.
2. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Beat egg whites in bowl of electric mixer on high speed until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Slowly beat in remaining 1/3 cup sugar until sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Add lemon juice; beat until the whites are stiff, 1 minute. Fill a 13-by-9-inch baking dish with cold water; drop egg whites by large rounded spoonfuls into the water. Bake 10-15 minutes, or until meringues are very lightly browned. Place meringues on custard with slotted spoon. Serve immediately.
Nutrition information per serving:
170 calories, 26% calories from fat, 4.9 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 145 mg cholesterol, 160 mg sodium, 23 g carbohydrate, 9 g protein, 0 g fiber
Old-fashioned deviled eggs with variations
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Yield: 8 pieces
Adapted from “The Good Egg,” by Marie Simmons.
4 large eggs, hard-cooked, peeled, halved lengthwise
2 1/2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Hot red pepper sauce
Salt, freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
1. Carefully remove yolks from the whites; place in bowl. Place the whites cut side up on a plate. With the back of a fork, mash yolks. Add mayonnaise, mustard and hot pepper sauce, salt and pepper to taste; mash with a fork until blended. Stir in chives.
2. Fill the whites with the yolk mixture, using a teaspoon or star-tipped pastry bag, mounding the tops. Serve at room temperature or chilled.
Variations:
Avocado and jalapeno stuffed eggs: Cook and separate eggs as above. Mash the yolks in a medium bowl. Stir in 1/3 cup mashed ripe avocado, 1 tablespoon each minced fresh cilantro and minced green onion, 2 teaspoons seeded and minced jalapeno, 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Fill whites as directed above. Garnish with slivers of tomato.
Smoked salmon and caviar stuffed eggs: Cook and separate the eggs as above. Mash the yolks in a bowl. Stir in 2 tablespoons sour cream, 1 tablespoon minced chives and 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard. Combine 1 tablespoon minced shallots and 1 teaspoon minced capers in a separate small bowl. Fill whites with yolk mixture as directed above. Top with 1/4 teaspoon of the shallot mixture, a piece of smoked salmon, a small dollop of sour cream. Sprinkle with salmon caviar.
Nutrition information per piece (basic recipe):
70 calories, 79% calories from fat, 6 g fat, 1.5 g saturated fat, 110 mg cholesterol, 80 mg sodium, 0.4 g carbohydrate, 3.2 g protein, 0 g fiber
Breakfast strata with spinach and Gruyere
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 1 1/2 hours
Chilling time: 1 hour
Standing time: 20 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
This savory bread pudding is adapted from “America’s Test Kitchen Cookbook,” by the editors of Cook’s Illustrated magazine.
8 slices French or Italian bread
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
4 shallots, minced
1 package (10 ounces) frozen chopped spinach, thawed, squeezed dry
Salt to taste plus 1 teaspoon
Freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup dry white wine, such as chardonnay or sauvignon blanc
6 eggs
1 3/4 cups half-and-half
6 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated
1. Heat oven to 225 degrees. Put bread in single layer on baking sheet; bake, turning once, until dry, 40 minutes. Cool. Spread 1 side of slices with 2 tablespoons of the butter.
2. Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 tablespoons butter in medium skillet over medium heat. Cook shallots until soft, about 3 minutes. Add spinach and salt and pepper to taste; cook, stirring occasionally, until combined, about 2 minutes. Transfer to bowl; set aside. Add wine to skillet. Increase heat to medium-high; simmer until reduced to 1/4 cup, about 3 minutes. Set aside. Whisk eggs in medium bowl. Whisk in wine, half-and-half, 1 teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
3. Arrange 4 slices of bread, buttered side up, in single layer in greased 8-inch square baking dish. Top with half of the spinach mixture, then 1/2 cup of the grated cheese. Arrange remaining bread slices in single layer over cheese. Sprinkle with remaining spinach mixture and 1/2 cup of the cheese. Pour egg mixture evenly over bread layers; cover surface flush with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
4. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Remove dish from refrigerator; let stand at room temperature 20 minutes. Uncover strata; sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup of the cheese. Bake until puffed and edges have pulled away slightly from sides of dish, 55 minutes. Cool on wire rack 5 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
605 calories, 48% calories from fat, 33 g fat, 17 g saturated fat, 290 mg cholesterol, 1,130 mg sodium, 52 g carbohydrate, 26 g protein, 4 g fiber
Individual orange souffles
Preparation time: 55 minutes
Cooking time: 18 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
These attractive individual souffles are baked in hollowed-out oranges. The souffle also can be made in a 1 1/2-quart souffle dish and baked 45 minutes. Adapted from “Holiday Eggs,” by Georgeanne Brennan.
6 navel oranges
1 tablespoon each: unsalted butter, flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 eggs, separated
1. Cut off top third of each orange. Cut a thin slice off bottom so oranges stand upright. Scoop out all the pulp. Put pulp in a strainer over a bowl; press on pulp to squeeze out 1 cup of juice.
2. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Combine juice and butter in a medium saucepan; cook over medium-high heat until reduced by 1/4, 10 minutes. Reduce heat; whisk in flour until a smooth paste forms. Whisk in 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon of the sugar and salt; cook until mixture thickens, 3 minutes. Remove from heat; slowly whisk in egg yolks. Whisk until the color lightens, 2 minutes.
3. Beat egg whites and 1 tablespoon of the sugar in a grease-free bowl of an electric mixer on medium-low 10 seconds. Increase speed to medium-high; beat until frothy, about 2 minutes. Add remaining 2 tablespoons of the sugar with mixer running. Beat until soft peaks form, 1 minute.
4. Gently fold the egg whites into the egg yolk/juice mixture until no streaks remain. Carefully spoon mixture into the orange shells to 1/2-inch below the rim of the oranges. Place the shells on a baking sheet; place in lower third of the oven. Reduce heat to 375 degrees. Bake until souffles are puffed and lightly golden, about 18 minutes. Serve before souffles deflate.
Nutrition information per serving:
150 calories, 32% calories from fat, 5 g fat, 2.2 g saturated fat, 145 mg cholesterol, 140 mg sodium, 22 g carbohydrate, 4.6 g protein, 0.1 g fiber
