(3 forks)
Mexican Grill
40 N. La Grange Rd., La Grange
708-352-4071
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit: A, M,V
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Baja Fresh’s La Grange outpost is so sleek, you might think you’ve wandered into an IKEA showroom. The room’s spaciousness, high ceilings and abundance of comfortable blond-wood furniture all conspire to persuade visitors this is not your typical fast-food chain. The grills and assembly lines, as sleek and clean as the dining room beyond, are in full view of customers. Baja also has restaurants in Glen Ellyn, Rolling Meadows, Wheaton and Deer Park.
On the plate
Familiar items from the American-canon-of-Mexican-food make up the bulk of the menu: tacos, burritos, nachos, quesadillas.
At your service
We ate in, and ordered carryout too. Orders seem to take a little longer than other chains, but the wait is well worth it.
Second helpings
Though few items persuaded us we weren’t eating fast food–only a machine can dice tomatoes that uniformly–most items persuaded us we were eating high-quality fast food. Baja fish tacos scored the most points. A tender fillet of breaded snapper, cozying up to the familiar taco trappings of chopped onion, salsa, cilantro and lettuce, makes a delicious home in a soft corn tortilla, with a fresh-fish flavor that is never overpowered by its companions. Fast-food salads generally make a lousy impression, but the opposite is true with the Baja ensalada, an enormous offering loaded with marinated, bite-size chunks of char-broiled chicken, a perky pico de gallo (tomato, onion and cilantro) and slender strips of fried tortilla, all tossed with a piquant dressing that sparkles with lime juice. Shaved cotija cheese adds the final, perfect touch. The charbroiled steak and charbroiled marinated chicken tacos make good impressions as well, thanks to the generous proportions of filling in these diminutive wraps, about a third smaller than the tacos we’re used to eating. The vegetarian burrito contains lots of flavor: grilled bell peppers, mild serrano chilies and grilled onions, along with a choice of pinto or black beans, cotija cheese, lettuce and sour cream.
Take a pass
The overcooked “fire-roasted” green onions included with many items fail to impress.
Thirst quenchers
Soda from the fountain–you pay, then you pour. Fresh-brewed iced tea also is offered. Alcoholic beverages are not served.
Extras
The ample salsa bar provides four kinds with varying heat, as well as extra cilantro.
Prices
Tacos, taquitos, burritos, $1.85-$7.25; salads, $1.95-$5.95; side dishes, 75 cents-$3.25; combination plates, $5.25-$6.95. Desserts are not offered.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Chicago Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
