(2 forks)
1445 W. Taylor St.
312-226-2408
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Sun.
Credit cards: V, M
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
A deep green awning out front proclaims the restaurant’s moniker and its specialty in a neighborhood where University of Illinois at Chicago students mix with staff from the nearby medical facilities. Inside the neat and tiny Couscous, a similar green colors the chairs and 10 tables, all of which have been topped with tablecloths and butcher paper. Middle Eastern-style brass plates and pitchers plus a wall of mirrors and a beaded curtain across the kitchen entrance complete the minimalist decor. When the sound system is turned on–as happened midway through our meal–Middle Eastern tunes dance from the speakers.
On the plate
Couscous, done here in vegetarian, chicken, lamb and fish versions, plays a prime role on a menu that also promises Middle Eastern and Maghrebin cuisine; that is, dishes mostly from Morocco, Tunisia and Algeria. If you love falafel, hummus, kebabs and tabbouleh, note that good renditions of these classics arrive in decent portions at easy-to-swallow prices.
At your service
On the quiet evening we visited, an eager-to-please gentleman in kitchen whites served as our waiter. He happily refilled our basket of hot pita bread several times and served up the courses, hot and in order. That the menu numbers its items helps both customers and staff.
Second helpings
The falafel fan in our group insists he’ll return for the crisp-fried chickpea-and-vegetable balls. A tasty spinach and chicken tajeen (plus parsley, cheese and eggs) cooks up into a crustless quiche that earns praise, as does a tahini-sauced shawerma sandwich of beef and lamb on pita.
A spicy, grilled boneless chicken breast (chicken tikka) served with grilled vegetables and rice, won over the 11-year-old in our party. And the couscous? The lamb version has a good balance of meat (though some pieces were pretty chewy on our visit) and vegetables atop fluffy, seasoned couscous.
Take a pass
Unlike the phyllo-wrapped pies we’re accustomed to, the tiny spinach pie at Couscous is wrapped in thick, bready dough. The deep-fried, triangular breek appetizers tuck potato, beef or chicken fillings inside a spring-roll wrapper; our potato filling was short on potato, long on parsley and way overcooked. When it comes to dessert, stick to the honey cake. The baklava is too dry.
Thirst quenchers
Homemade lemonade, juices, soft drinks, tea and cardamom-scented Turkish coffee. There is no alcohol, and BYOB is discouraged.
Price range
Appetizers, $1.95-$3.95; salad and sandwiches, $2.50-$5.95; main courses, $5.95-$10.95; side dishes, $1.75- $2.95; desserts, $1.25-$1.85; drinks, 85 cents-$1.95)
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Chicago Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
