(2 forks)
1340 N. Homan Ave.
773-862-0886
Hours: 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: Not accepted
Noise level: Conversation friendly
Wheelchair accessible
First impressions
A neon sign in the window asks the question: Tienes hambre? (Are you hungry?) That sets the tone for this cafeteria-style spot with nine tables. Aqua plastic tablecloths and salsa tunes enliven the atmosphere. No prices or menus are posted; you just load up a tray from the heat-lamp-warmed cases or point, and you are on your way. Taking the food home might be more relaxing than eating in.
On the plate
Homestyle Puerto Rican fare, heavy on stews, rice and beans, and especially the vianda–an assortment of boiled tubers and banana relatives, from malanga (wonderfully creamy and nutty) and name (substantial but less flavorful) to guineos (similar to a green banana) and yuca. Most diners opt for a mixta plate that includes a meat preparation with vianda or a rice and bean combo. Self-serve hot cases offer deep-fried fare including papa rellena (mashed potato balls filled with seasoned pork), alcapurrias (pork-filled plantain fritters), pastelillos (meat turnovers) and sorrullos de maiz (corn fritters usually eaten for breakfast). Blood sausage, ribs, roast pork and fish round out the offerings.
Second helpings
Most stews are filled with tender meat in a tasty gravy. Even the pigs feet stew had terrific flavor, although it took some work to get to the meaty parts. If it is your first time trying the vianda, ask for mostly malanga. We really love the tasty if slightly lumpy arroz con gandules (yellow rice with pigeon peas). The roasted ribs are flavorful and perfectly cooked. Alcapurrias are earthy, crisp and soft all at the same time. The flan slices may not be attractive but they are creamy and delicious.
Take a pass
Pasteles (yautia and green plantain tamales) can be bland. And the pinto beans could have used a little more sofrito, the spice mixture used for most Puerto Rican dishes.
At your service
Folks behind the hot tables and cash register are chipper, usually English-speaking and ready to help.
Thirst quenchers
Coco Rico, Jupina, Malta India and other soft drinks are available. You’ll also find parcha, a passion fruit drink. No alcohol is served.
Extras
On Saturdays, La Palma makes cabrito guisado (goat stew).
Prices
Appetizers, 50 cents-$4.96; soups, $1.50; mixta plates, $5.95-$7.59; drinks, $1-$2.95.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Chicago Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
