Heading east into Edison Park along Northwest Highway, the first indication that there’s good eating ahead is the sign for a grocery store called Happy Foods–complete with a yellow smiley face. Just beyond that sign, this far Northwest Side neighborhood, known for its rows of neat houses, is home to a world of fine dining, ranging from Italian to Mexican and Asian.
“[Edison Park] is still pretty much an ethnic neighborhood,” says Ald. Brian Doherty (41st), who has lived there for about 15 years. But, he adds, “it is going more upscale.”
Bright awnings, fancy signs and valet parking add polish to this short stretch of Northwest Highway, anchored at one end by Don Juan’s and Nam Viet and at the other by Zia’s Trattoria, where chef Joseph Calabrese turns out such upscale fare as pancetta-wrapped pork tenderloin. In between, there are several pubs, the Conca D’Oro bakery with its fine foccacia and crusty breads, and a couple of sandwich shops. Just around the corner, a few more restaurants sit along Olmsted near the Metra station.
Here are a few of the offerings:
Basta Pasta (6733 N. Olmsted Ave., 773-763-0667): The huge bowl of noodles hanging over the entrance to Basta Pasta only hints at the bounty inside this casual eatery that prides itself on large portions and an impressive menu, ranging from stuffed artichokes and polenta to pastas, pizza and seafood.
Nam Viet Restaurant (6731 N. Northwest Hwy., 773-763-0307): White tablecloths, mirrored walls and tiny vases of fresh flowers on the tables add an elegant touch to this restaurant where lemongrass, mint and ginger flavor the Vietnamese and Chinese dishes that fill the menu. You won’t go wrong with Vietnamese pork and shrimp pancake, catfish in a clay pot (ca kho to) or a spicy shrimp with garlic sauce.
Nonno Pino’s (6718 N. Northwest Hwy., 773-594-1155): There are faux finishes on the walls and faux sausages and cheeses hanging from the rafters, but there is nothing faux about the decent portions and tasty fare dished up here. The place can get very busy during the dinner hour with folks hungering for delicious thin-crust pizzas, gnocchi, chicken Vesuvio or savory fish specials such as cioppino or seafood risotto.
Ruby D & Me (6701 Northwest Hwy., 773-774-5552): Where do you go when you need a burger, a reuben or a patty melt and fries? Ruby D & Me. Greek style chicken? Ditto. And a hearty breakfast? Ditto again, with a footnote: This place is so popular for its big breakfasts–thick French toast, omelets, eggs flanked by Canadian bacon and Irish sausage–that things can get crowded at that hour. But crowds and a familial conviviality is what this place, outfitted with comfy booths and tables, is all about.
Tony’s Italian Deli and Subs (6708 N. Northwest Hwy., 773-631-0055): Subs are the draw here–regular, king and super ones, done both cold and hot–so much so that it’s definitely a take-a-number kind of place at lunch and on Saturdays. But this combination grocery/eatery, its exterior delightfully decorated, offers a lot more. Besides the subs, which can be enjoyed in the shop’s cafe, you’ll find a range of hot prepared foods (calzone, pizza by the slice, etc.), frozen foods (ravioli, lasagna, etc.) and sweets, including a delicately flavored lemon twist.
