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Star reviews are based on at least two visits by the Tribune critic.

* = Good

** = Very Good

*** = Excellent

**** = Outstanding

Fork reviews are based on one visit by a Tribune staffer.

(1 fork) = Good

(2 forks) = Very Good

(3 forks) = One of the best

(4 forks) = Don’t miss it

Credit card key

A American Express

DC Diners’ Club

DS Discover

M MasterCard

V Visa

NEW = A review added since the last Dining Guide

UPDATE = A restaurant revisited since the last Dining Guide

CLASSIC = A true Chicago institution

African

CITY

Ethiopian Diamond Restaurant and Lounge (3 forks)

6120 N. Broadway

773-338-6100

If you’re in the mood for the tangy, spicy cuisine of Ethiopia, served on a round platter the size of a pizza pan, this is a great place to have around.

Recommended: Zilzil, veggie combo.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7-$10

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Ofie (4 forks)

3911 N. Sheridan Rd.

773-248-6490

The fiery food and exotic trappings at this lavish little West-African restaurant will transport diners to some inconspicuous nook on the periphery of a Ghanian or Nigerian bazaar. Don’t miss the delectable fufu dishes: A combination of yams and plantains, they’re meant to be eaten by hand, and should be pressed into service scooping up the thick, savory stews.

Recommended: Oguan nam (lamb stew), Palava fish (catfish steaks), kaza sabongari, fufu dishes.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10-$17

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

NEW

Ras Dashen Ethiopian Restaurant (3 forks)

5846 N. Broadway

773-506-9601

Communal Ethiopian dishes are served on a beach ball-size pancake called injera at this large, friendly Edgewater restaurant.

Recommended: Yellow split pea paste; spicy stewed lentils, beef stew, spinach.

Open: Dinner and lunch Wed.-Mon.

Entree prices: $8.50-$12

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; coffee-roasting ceremony most evenings.

American classic

CITY

Atwood Cafe **

Hotel Burnham

1 W. Washington St.

312-368-1900.

An ideal drop-in-anytime spot in the heart of the Loop, featuring an unintimidating menu of updated comfort-food classics. The decor is formal enough to be taken seriously, but humorous enough to be comfortable and inviting, and the 18-foot ceilings and large windows let in lots of natural light.

Recommended: Pot pie, roasted banana white chocolate bread pudding.

Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun.; brunch Sat, Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; children’s menu.

NEW

Barbara’s Kitchen (3 forks)

5414 W. Devon Ave.

773-631-1311

This narrow, intimate space in Edgebrook features all-American fare and “blue plate” specials made from scratch.

Recommended: Barb’s old-fashioned meatloaf, sloppy joes, Key lime pie.

Open: Early dinner and lunch Mon.-Fri., lunch Sat.

Entree prices: $6.25-$8.25

Credit cards: Not accepted

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Children’s menu

Four Moon Tavern (3 forks)

1847 W. Roscoe St.

773-929-6666

Often a neighborhood bar serves top-of-the-line drinks and second-rate food. The Four Moon Tavern does not follow that pattern–the fish, pasta, lasagna and hamburgers are all superb.

Recommended: Onion rings, spinach salad, biscuits and gravy, meat loaf, char-grilled hamburgers.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch and lunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.75- $7.50

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

437 Rush **

437 N. Rush St.

312-222-0101

The old Riccardo’s, a celeb and media hangout in its day, has been transformed by Phil Stefani into a well-managed steak and seafood restaurant. The handsome, Art Deco-accented decor is augmented with pictures of media celebrities and journalists past and present. Lunch diners can choose from the regular menu downstairs or a light cafe menu in the upstairs room.

Recommended: Homemade pasta specialties, prime rib, chocolate pave.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14.95-$45

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NEW

Keefer’s ***

20 W. Kinzie St.

312-467-9525

A clean, contemporary-looking glass-and-metal space made cozy with carpeting, a fireplace and vintage-radio displays; what differentiates this River North newcomer from the city’s rank-and-file steak-and-seafood restaurants is the cooking of chef John Hogan, who works a few French touches (including a dish or two from his former restaurant, Savarin) into the menu mix.

Recommended: Mussels mariniere, tomato bisque, N.Y. strip steak, pork chop, seafood pot pie, tarte tatin.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $15.95-$29.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

CLASSIC

Lawry’s the Prime Rib

100 E. Ontario St.

312-787-5000

A haven for the indecisive, Lawry’s offers a simple menu focused firmly on prime rib, offered in various cuts and sizes and carved tableside from huge rolling carts. There’s always a salmon preparation as an option, as well as lobster tail, and prices include vegetables and the famed Spinning Salad Bowl, a house salad that’s prepared tableside. The room is sprawling and old-fashioned, as are the upstairs-maid uniforms the waitresses wear, but that’s all part of the show.

Recommended: Prime rib, chocolate bag.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $23-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

CLASSIC

Miller’s Pub

134 S. Wabash Ave.

312-263-4988

A great place to know about when you’re hungry late at night, this Loop veteran serves food until 2 a.m. Ribs are the big draw, as is the prime rib, but the menu offers everything from sandwiches to steaks in a vintage-clubby space festooned with black-and-white headshots of the famous and nearly so.

Recommended: Spinach salad, prime rib, lamb chops

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10.50-$28.50

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Validated parking available

NEW

Orange (4 forks)

3231 N. Clark St.

773-549-4400

If you have to face the world early in the morning, this is the next best thing to your own breakfast nook. Inventive and generous breakfast and lunch offerings dominate the menu.

Recommended: Omelets, buttermilk pancake stack, French toast kebab, grilled cheese sandwich.

Open: Breakfast and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.95-$10.95

Credit cards: A, D, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; children’s menu.

Petterino’s **

150 N. Dearborn St.

312-422-0150

In look and feel a throwback to dining in the ’40s and ’50s, Petterino’s is done in dark wood and red leather, its walls covered with caricatures of celebrities past and present. The menu is heavy with steaks and chops, but includes some old-fashioned dishes, including excellent potato pancakes. Petterino’s location inside the Goodman Theatre building in the Loop makes it a handy lunch and pre- and post-theater dining destination.

Recommended: Steak Diane, shrimp de jonghe, red snapper soup, tomato bisque, chocolate pudding, cheesecake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12.95-$35.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Sweet Maple Cafe (3 forks)

1339 W. Taylor St.

312-243-8908

This cafe serves stunning food for breakfast and lunch. The portions are ample, the decor is attractive and the food is fresh, with noteworthy freshly baked muffins on the breakfast menu and elegant homemade potato chips on the lunch menu.

Recommended: Holiday French toast, sweet milk biscuits, pancakes, Be Creative omelet, smoked turkey club, homemade soup.

Open: Breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri., breakfast and brunch Sat-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95- $7.25

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking across the street.

Twisted Spoke (4 forks)

501 N. Ogden Ave.

312-666-1500

Small-town diner fare meets biker-bar ambience here. Everything is made from scratch, so meals can take some time to arrive; the delicious food (in gargantuan portions) is well worth the wait. Service is attentive and friendly.

Recommended: Onion rings, Fatboys (hamburgers), Alberto’s jumbo burrito.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Fri.; dinner and brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.95-$9.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

WEST

Country House (3 forks)

2095 S. Kirk Rd., Geneva 630-208-8181

These west-suburban establishments (there are locations in Countryside and Lisle as well) have a reputation for quality pub fare. And it’s a well-deserved reputation, given the outstanding burgers here. A full half-pound of sirloin, the burger seems best served on dark rye, topped with cheese, tomato, leaf lettuce and perhaps grilled or raw onion.

Recommended: Burgers, spinach salad, muffaletta sandwich.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95-$16.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 8 or more

Dell Rhea’s Chicken Basket (3 forks)

645 Joliet Rd., Willowbrook

630-325-0780

Dell Rhea’s has been around since the 1940s, and its staying power is deserved. The menu has not only the terrific all-American fare that has made the place a Willowbrook institution, but also more contemporary dishes.

Recommended: Fried chicken, roast turkey.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6-$16

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more

Other: Carryout available.

Zander’s Cafe (4 forks)

2241 Maple Ave., Downers Grove

630-435-9520

Zander’s Cafe creates homestyle dishes that go way beyond the usual definition of homestyle. And there’s no skimping on ingredients or portions.

Recommended: Whitefish with artichoke hearts, roasted vegetable quesadillas, bananas foster.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $6.95-$12

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout; catering.

SOUTH

Hobknobs in the Park (3 forks)

8101 W. 123rd St., Palos Park, 708-923-1218

A pretty, glittering restaurant that features interesting twists on American standbys. One unusual feature is the supervised children’s play room.

Recommended: Crab cakes, brie en croute, chicken breast Wellington, Lucille parfait.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

House of Hughes (2 forks)

14300 S. Cicero Ave., Crestwood

708-389-4636

Traditional American food is the mainstay of this spacious south suburban restaurant.

Recommended: Barbecued ribs, strawberry shortcake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat, brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $8.95-$26.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

American contemporary

CITY

UPDATE

Bin 36 ***

339 N. Dearborn St.

312-755-9463

Under new chef John Caputo, Bin 36 is doing its finest work yet. Your best bet is the five-course chef’s menu, which combines Caputo’s most inventive food with wine director Brian Duncan’s unerring wine selections. A wine-lover’s paradise, Bin 36 offers an ever-changing assortment of carefully selected wines, available by the bottle, glass and half-glass, and there’s a retail area with wines, glassware and other foodie knickknacks.

Recommended: Surf and turf tartare, wild-mushroom risotto, soy-braised black cod, roasted rabbit, banana-hazelnut financier, poached pear.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$24.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Blackbird ***

619 W. Randolph St.

312-715-0708

At this tres hot spot along the Randolph Street restaurant corridor, Paul Kahan’s contemporary American cuisine relies on pristine produce and simple, prettily presented preparations — though “simple” doesn’t do justice to the depth of Kahan’s food.

Recommended: Ahi tuna tartare, fish soup, venison, seared hamachi, buckwheat crepes.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar area only.

Brett’s *

2011 W. Roscoe St.

773-248-0999

An eminently civilized Roscoe Village charmer. Decor is not fancy, but it’s warm and appealing: Soft lighting, moderate-volume classical music, wonderful bread at the table — this is a nice place to hang out, especially off-weekend. Creative American cooking, solid desserts.

Recommended: Potato taco, red snapper corncakes, pork chops.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$19

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Charlie Trotter’s ****

816 W. Armitage Ave.

773-248-6228

A fine-dining masterpiece that enjoys a national reputation, Charlie Trotter’s is one of the city’s treasures. Trotter is as experimental as they come, creating extraordinarily complex dishes whose range of tastes and textures can be mind-boggling even to sophisticated palates. The printed menu lists only degustation dinners, consisting of seven to 12 courses in petit portions, designed to expose patrons to the widest range of tastes. Trotter’s all-vegetable degustation, in particular, is a singular and revelatory experience. The sophisticated yet very friendly service is top-notch. The expansive wine list, though pricey, offers excellent values.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Dinner prices: Vegetable menu, $100; grand menu, $120

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; jacket required; no smoking; valet parking.

NEW

Fox & Obel Food Market Cafe (4 forks)

401 E. Illinois St.

312-379-0112

The stylish-shopping-in-a-loft experience of this gourmet store carries over to the counter-service cafe, where you’ll find a vast repertoire of unusual dishes.

Recommended: Tomato-basil soup, smoked turkey sandwich, duck salad, lamb stew with lentils.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$7.95

Credit cards: A, D, M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Green Dolphin Street ***

2200 N. Ashland Ave.

773-395-0066

Unquestionably the best place in the city to enjoy fine dining and high-grade entertainment, albeit not simultaneously. The dining room (and, weather permitting, the sheltered riverfront patio) offers globally inspired but classically grounded dishes by chef Rick Gresh; the adjacent lounge is a spacious, sensual environment with live music (no cover for dinner guests).

Recommended: Seared scallops, strawberry-chevre tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $17.50-$28.

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Harvest on Huron ***

217 W. Huron St.

312-587-9600

Alan Sternweiler’s superb American food has an impeccable home in this sophisticated and joyful environment, an art-filled space loaded with creature comforts — not the least of which is the well-chosen 400-bottle wine list and a breathtaking selection of cognacs and other spirits. Knowledgeable, convivial service is the icing on the cake.

Recommended: Monkfish stuffed with braised short ribs, wild game, roast duck with escargot sauce.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14-$31

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking; late serving hours.

NEW

Kevin ***

9 W. Hubbard St.

312-595-0055

It took Kevin Shikami and his brother, Alan, more than two years to realize their dream of owning a restaurant, but the results have been worth the wait. This is a stunning, cedar-accented space, a beautiful setting for Kevin Shikami’s signature French-Asian cooking and Cindy Schuman’s wonderful desserts.

Recommended: Tuna tartare, sea scallops with foie gras, duck with pomegranate sauce, mustard-glazed pork loin, passion fruit mousse torte, pistachio-cream pirouettes.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $23-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking.

Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club *

3700 N. Halsted St.

773-525-1111

As kitschy as they come, Kit Kat Lounge is the supper club as High Camp, where martinis come in neon colors and dishes such as beef tenderloin are dubbed the Top Hat Tender. The narrow dining room is packed with gregarious patrons, who visit as much for the divas– female impersonators who mimic Carmen Miranda, Tina Turner and others in high-energy fashion–as for the food, which despite the whimsical names and the occasional jolt of spice, is pretty straightforward.

Recommended: Big Blonde pizza, eggplant bread pudding, Bombay chicken, Chocolate Lover’s Dream.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$18

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Lakeview Supper Club **

1232 W. Belmont Ave.

773-975-0095

OK, it’s not a true supper club (no entertainment) and, if you want to get technical, there’s no lake view, either. But this budget-friendly Lakeview spot has much to recommend it, from the sophisticated, whimsically conceived comfort food to a wine program that offers any bottle on the list (sparklers excepted) by the half-bottle, decanted into graduated cylinders that provide a touch of kitsch while confirming the accuracy of the pour.

Recommended: Fish sticks, oven-roasted chicken, vegetarian risotto, cookies and milk.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; covered outdoor patio.

mk ***

868 N. Franklin St.

312-482-9179

Stylish decor, sleek server uniforms, Christofle flatware and Riedel stemware — no detail has been overlooked at MK. Michael Kornick’s cooking marries clean flavors to eye-appealing presentations. Mindy Segal’s imaginative desserts provide each meal with a rousing finale.

Recommended: Tuna tartare with celery root remoulade, N.Y. strip steak, chocolate banana bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$34

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

MOD ***

1520 N. Damen Ave.

773-252-1500

Decor-cuisine contrasts don’t come much more extreme than chef Kelly Courtney’s simple, clean food and MOD’s riot-of-color, shiny plastic interior, but somehow it seems to work, mostly because MOD, however wild, is a comfortable space, and Courtney’s cuisine, however serious, shines with wit and vigor.

Recommended: Ribeye steak, MOD tropical split.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking lot; smoking in bar only.

Naha ***

500 N. Clark St.

312-321-6242

Carrie Nahabedian employs her considerable culinary skill, honed at such restaurants as Le Francais, La Tour and the Four Seasons (Chicago and Beverly Hills), at her restaurant, whose contemporary American menu abounds with Californian and Mediterranean influences. The wide-open dining room is spare, but warm and comfortable.

Recommended: Barigoule of artichokes, vanilla-scented scallops, mustard-glazed salmon, Moulard duck, chilled mango soup with coconut sorbet.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $20-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Nine ***

440 W. Randolph St.

312-575-9900

A singular dining experience, even if it’s a steak and seafood spot at heart, Nine combines visual flash and luxury-dining elements to make familiar food seem exotic and exciting. Prime steaks are impressive, seafood is beautifully prepared and there must be at least six ways to order caviar. Not surprisingly, people dress up here.

Recommended: Caviar cones, seafood platter, pancetta-wrapped sea bass, root-beer float.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

one sixtyblue ***

160 N. Loomis St.

312-850-0303

A bit off the beaten path, but a spectacular restaurant, from the Adam Tihany decor to the work of chef Martial Noguier, who incorporates global ingredients into his French-trained cooking with skill and imagination. Service is particularly impressive.

Recommended: Lobster soup with mussels, delmonico steak, shrimp and asparagus gnocchi, rack of venison, baba cake, hot chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $18.50-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NEW

Piece (3 forks)

1927 W. North Ave.

773-772-4422

Pizza in the mold of New Haven, Conn., is the draw in this former huge garage.

Recommended: Green salad with pears and Gorgonzola, Caesar salad, bacon-and-clam pizza, turkey and bacon sandwich with pesto and Gorgonzola, roasted vegetable sandwich.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: Pizzas start at $8.75

Credit cards: A, D, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

The Room **

5900 N. Broadway

773-989-7666

You can dig pretty deeply into your wine collection in preparation for this delightful bring-your-own-bottle restaurant; chef Gil Langlois’ food is good enough to complement wines of considerable quality. And the staff handles your wine (with a $5 corkage fee) with a respect bordering on reverence.

Recommended: Crab cake, lobster salad, grilled ostrich, polenta-crusted catfish.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; BYOB.

Rushmore ***

1023 W. Lake St.

312-421-8845

Named not for a monument but a tavern (and alleged brothel) that occupied the same building, Rushmore adds culinary dazzle to a dreary stretch of Lake Street. Michael Dean Hazen ably demonstrates that “all American” need not be tradition-bound.

Recommended: Scallops with cider vinaigrette, grilled-cheese “sandwich,” lobster pie, braised shortribs, hot-chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.,

Entree prices: $15-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking Fri.-Sat.; smoking in bar only.

Seasons ***

Four Seasons Hotel

120 E. Delaware Pl.

312-280-8800

Amid the opulent decor and extravagant appointments of this first-rate hotel dining room is the food of executive chef Mark Baker, which is so beautiful in appearance and taste it’s easy to overlook how light and healthful most of it is. Fish and lean meats are accented with cunningly crafted vegetable broths and infused oils, but Baker makes room for wild game and an homage or two from his native New England. Desserts are as luscious as they get. And the Sunday brunch is one of Chicago’s best.

Recommended: Thyme-roasted scallop, poached lobster, roasted salmon, Colorado lamb.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $25-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

She She **

4539 N. Lincoln Ave.

773-293-3690

This is a fun and funky Lincoln Square gem where the tin ceiling is painted gold and the seat cushions and waiter trousers are cut from the same leopard-print cloth. The menu features playful food by chef/partner Nicole Parthemore.

Recommended: Yellowfin tuna, lemon tart, bananas Foster, bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly

recommended on weekends.

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking at the bar only.

Soul Kitchen **

1576 N. Milwaukee Ave.

773-342-9742

The “Loud food, spicy music” slogan on the busboys’ T-shirts pretty much says it all, though the appreciably spicy food isn’t mouth-searingly hot. The menu offers flavors from throughout the American South (not just soul food), and the daily oyster harvest is likely to be a good bet, too.

Recommended: Soul platter, Pecan-crusted catfish, gumbo.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$21

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Spago ***

520 N. Dearborn St.

312-527-3700

This outpost of Wolfgang Puck’s inventive California concept seems very much at home here. Attitude-free staffers and bright and cheerful (if very noisy) surroundings make the place instantly attractive, and Francois Kwaku-Dongo’s excellent cooking keeps bringing people back.

Recommended: Veal scallopine, Cantonese duck, seafood risotto, creme brulee, warm chocolate truffle cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $15.50-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

Spring ***

2039 W. North Ave.

773-395-7100

Former Trio chef Shawn McClain’s first solo venture is this zen-like Bucktown spot in the old North Avenue Bathhouse. Seafood dominates the menu, and Asian and Indian influences abound in McClain’s subtle, harmonious cooking. Service is very impressive, and the wine list is full of carefully chosen bottles that complement the menu.

Recommended: Tuna nicoise salad, coconut-lemongrass soup, scallops and oxtail, halibut with lobster potatoes, coconut-mochi brulee, panna cotta.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $19-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Tru ****

676 N. St. Clair St.

312-202-0001

From the moment you call to reserve a table to the end of your spectacular meal, Tru labors mightily to demonstrate that every detail has been seen to, every desire anticipated. Here, the culinary talents of chefs Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand have the forum of their dreams — a beautifully realized space with the stunning good looks of a contemporary art gallery and a smoothly professional staff that makes the dining experience an unintimidating delight. Choose from a three-course prix-fixe menu, or sample one of four degustation dinners, called “collections”; either way, prepare for an onslaught of flavors, textures, aromas and visuals that will approach sensory overload.

Recommended: Caviar staircase,black truffle risotto, mosaic of seafood, dessert selection.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Dinner prices: Prix-fixe menus, $75-$150

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; jacket required; smoke-free dining room.

Twelve 12 ***

1212 N. State Pkwy.

312-951-1212

An ambitious Gold Coast restaurant with stunning food by David Shea and delightful desserts by pastry chef Sheira Harris. The dining room is contemporary and tasteful; service is excellent. Bargain-hunters should check out the “Streetview” menu, offered in the cafe area only, which features modestly priced, lighter fare.

Recommended: Shrimp, scallops and crab ceviche, sweetbreads, striped sea bass, grilled lamb loin, bittersweet chocolate ganache cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $16-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.

Zealous *** 1/2

419 W. Superior St.

312-475-9112

Exceedingly attentive servers in Donna Karan suits present Taus’ masterly cooking, which playfully creates unlikely sounding food pairings that succeed brilliantly. Degustation dinners are likely the best way to experience Taus’ food.

Recommended: Lamb tenderloin salad, sesame crusted sea bass, armagnac chocolate prune cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $15-$25; 5-course prix-fixe menu, $85.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS,M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking weekends; smoking in bar only.

NORTH

NEW

mk North ***

305 S. Happ Rd., Northfield

847-716-6500

The suburban sibling to the original mk is a comfortable, if noisy, space; the menu is very similar to the parent operation, though chef Jon Novak manages some signatures of his own.

Recommended: Crab cake with Tabasco aioli, roasted quail, rotisserie chicken, apple crostata.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14-$31

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.

Karizma **

4741 Main St., Skokie

847-674-6163

A bright American bistro with a pretty and romantically lit dining room, a modestly priced wine list and an unintimidating contemporary-American menu.

Recommended: Fried calamari, tuna tartare, duck breast, slow roasted salmon, chocolate banana crepe.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14-$29

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking lot.

UPDATE

Trio ****

1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston

847-733-8746

Fasten your seatbelts when you dine here; the cooking of chef Grant Achatz (formerly of the renowned French Laundry) is practically an assault on the senses. He might start your meal with a complimentary flask of spiced water topped with hazelnut foam, then pair foie gras with bananas, followed by prime sirloin bathed in “root beer” flavors. All menus are degustation style, and matching wine flights (a very good idea) are available.

Recommended: Black-truffle ravioli, “root beer” sirloin, wild striped bass with chocolate and coffee sauces, chocolate-fennel tart, Japanese tea cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Fri.

Dinner prices: Small tasting menu, $75; grand menu, $100; tour de force, $175

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible (assisted access to restrooms); valet parking; jacket preferred; no smoking.

WEST

Atwater’s *

15 S. River Lane, Geneva

630-208-7433

The picturesque Herrington Inn along the Fox River is home to this French-accented American restaurant, whose cozy, window-filled dining room overlooks landscaped gardens and the river beyond. Its small size (45 seats) makes weekend reservations tough to get.

Recommended: Grilled quail salad, brie and pear sachet salad, Chateaubriand for two.

Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $21-$33

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

NEW

Elaine ***

10 W. Jackson Ave., Naperville

630-548-3100

Assertive, gutsy flavors and a fondness for game meats sum up chef Ted Cizma’s cooking style, which is on full display at his downtown Naperville restaurant. The two-story space, done in blues with silver-metallic accents, is low lit enough to qualify as romantic.

Recommended: Lobster-bibb salad, veal cheeks, lamb shank with sweetbreads, strawberry-hibiscus tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $19-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Smoking in bar only

302 West ***

302 W. State St., Geneva

630-232-9302

A west-suburban gem, highlighted by chef/owner Joel Findlay’s brilliant contemporary American cooking, which is complexly flavored yet eminently approachable, even playful. Desserts are simple, often recalling childhood pleasures, and the intensely personal wine list is a trove of lesser-known delights. The dining room, set in a former bank building, is stylish, spacious and pleasantly subdued, even when live jazz music is featured.

Recommended: Grilled prawns, broiled snapper, pork tenderloin, Mounds Bar tart.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $20-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Cafe Elise (4 forks)

435 Ridge Rd., Munster, Ind.

219-836-2233

Finding such sophisticated fare as roasted calamari with citrus poblano vinaigrette or coriander-crusted yellowfin tuna in a strip mall storefront along busy Ridge Road in Munster, Ind., is nothing short of startling. Credit chef-owner Scott Dixon, who has named this beguiling place after his first-born daughter.

Recommended: Cream-of-golden-potato soup, crab cakes, Irish-cream cheesecake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; catering; private parties; no smoking.

Clayton’s (4 forks)

66 W. Lincolnway, Valparaiso, Ind.

219-531-0612

From its understated-chic decor to its knowledgeable staff and its imaginative menu, this out-of-the-way restaurant is a gem.

Recommended: Grilled veal chop, pan-seared Lake Victoria perch, molasses-marinated duck breast.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Entree prices: $14-$24

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

American regional

CITY

Crofton on Wells ***

535 N. Wells St.

312-755-1790

After critical successes at Montparnasse and Cassis, chef Suzy Crofton has her own place — a comfortable, sophisticated 64-seater– and a compact, seasonal-American menu with no wrong choices. Soups and salads are especially good.

Recommended: Oyster shooter, foie gras, grilled salmon.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

erwin ***

2925 N. Halsted St.

773-528-7200

The simple menu descriptions don’t do justice to chef Erwin Drechsler’s self-styled “urban heartland” cooking, which spins Midwest ingredients into dishes that excite the palate and nurture the soul.

Recommended: Smoked trout and cilantro pancake, mussels, Door County whitefish, sauteed calf’s liver with mustard shallot sauce, peanut butter mousse cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Hubbard Street Grill ***

351 W. Hubbard St.

312-222-0770

The atmosphere is pleasant and unpretentious, the serving staff eager to please and, for the most part, precise. But chef David Schy’s imaginative, unerring taste pairings are the reason to come.

Recommended: Cobb salad, skirt steak, filet, apple-cherry crumble.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $11.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible from Orleans Street entrance; valet parking dinner only.

Meritage ***

2118 N. Damen Ave.

773-235-6434

Faux-metallic walls and low light make the dining room of this well-established Bucktown restaurant a romantic place to dine, though most people prefer the awning-covered outdoor patio, one of the most pleasant outdoor spaces in town (it’s fully enclosed in poor weather for year-round dining). The French-informed, Asian-accented cuisine of new chef Dirk Flanigan is a perfect fit.

Recommended: Seared foie gras with warm pear cornbread pudding, roasted sea bass, grilled elk, roasted duck breast, apple caramel Dutch pancake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18-$28

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; smoking at bar only.

Printer’s Row ***

550 S. Dearborn St.

312-461-0780

A Chicago institution that hasn’t skipped a beat, 20-year-old Printer’s Row offers imaginative influences from coast to coast, fashioning an eclectic mix that includes no wrong choices. Informed and low-key service contributes to a civilized, stress-free dining experience.

Recommended: Black peppercorn crusted loin of venison, roasted pork rack, Thai chili-rubbed tuna, passion fruit tart, banana bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

CLASSIC

The Signature Room at the 95th

John Hancock Center

875 N. Michigan Ave.

312-787-9596

Known more for its beautful dining rooms and splendid, 95th-floor views of Chicago and Lake Michigan than for its food, which, though superb at its best, can be uneven. The lunch buffet is one of the best bargains in town at $13.95.

Recommended: Tomato bruschetta, vegetarian pasta, rack of lamb, white and dark chocolate mousse cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $22-$37

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Zinfandel **

59 W. Grand Ave.

312-527-1818

Chef Susan Goss’ modern interpretations of classic American recipes form the focus of this ambitious restaurant. Each month the dishes of a particular American style or region — from Creole to Pacific Northwest to Hawaii — augment the regular menu. An eclectic collection of folk art and an abundance of wood contribute to a folksy feel, but the room runs with modern efficiency.

Recommended: Quesadilla, crayfish cakes, pot roast, pecan-crusted mahi-mahi, pecan pie.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sat.

Entree prices: $18-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTH

Flatlander’s (3 forks)

200 Village Green, corner of U.S. Hwy. 45 and

Milwaukee Ave., Lincolnshire

847-821-1234

A microbrewery with surprisingly sophisticated food. Well-crafted beers are a big draw, too, and the Prairie-inspired decor is inviting.

Recommended: Walleye pike, barbecued ribs, apple cinnamon pretzel with ice cream.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Courtright’s (Review pending)

8989 Archer Ave, Willow Springs

708-839-8000

It will be interesting to see how new chef Michael Tsonton applies his Italian/Mediterranean culinary roots to the menu of this ambitious restaurant, which has one of the prettiest views (overlooking a forest preserve) and deepest wine lists in the area.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $22-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Barbecue

CITY

NEW

Bone Daddy (3 forks)

551 N. Ogden Ave.

312-226-6666

Quick and helpful service is the rule at this cavernous barbecue house where live entertainment and movies also are on the menu.

Recommended: Baby back ribs, pulled pork sandwich, BBQ brisket sandwich, pork chops.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. and Sun.

Entree prices: $7.25-$26

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Freddy’s Ribhouse (3 forks)

1555 N. Sheffield Ave.

312-377-7427

26 W. Hubbard St.

312-863-7427

Freddy’s offers a competitive selection of ribs, steaks and chicken in gut-busting portions. Lots of places brag that their baby back ribs slide off the bone, and these do indeed; it’s hard to imagine how they were holding on to the bone in the first place.

Recommended: Baby back ribs, jumbo beef ribs, coleslaw, ricotta cheesecake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $6.95 to $23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Smoke Daddy (3 forks)

1804 W. Division St.

773-772-6656

At this vintage neighborhood bar-lounge, flavorful barbecued ribs and tender pit-oven smoked pork and beef are on the menu.

Recommended: Pork shoulder, beef brisket, spare ribs, barbecued chicken breasts, skin-on French fries, BBQ beans.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Fri.-Mon.

Entree prices: $5.50-$17.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

NEW

Bar-B-Que Shack (3 forks)

17400 S. Wolf Rd., Orland Park

708-478-7825

The term “shack” is on the money, though the place is tidy. Come for hefty, messy sandwiches and ribs. Takeout is a strong point.

Recommended: Oven-browns, hickory-smoked back ribs, jumbo hot dog.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $5.50-$15.50

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; children’s menu; catered pig roasts.

Chuck’s BBQ (3 forks)

5557 W. 79th St., Burbank

708-229-8700

At this Southern-style barbecue joint, the sauce–mild or hot–reigns supreme. Barbecue specialties are top-notch, as are the exceptional hand-cut fries.

Recommended: Ribs, beef brisket sandwich, Taylor Street submarine, daily specials.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $4.50 -$14.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

British/Irish

CITY

Chief O’Neill’s (4 forks)

3471 N. Elston Ave.

773-583-3066

A convivial Irish bar that’s surprisingly serious about its cuisine, Chief O’Neill’s (named for a former Chicago cop, not a Celtic ruler) offers hearty food, fine imported drafts and live music most evenings.

Recommended: Corned beef and cabbage, shepherd’s pie, chicken pie.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $8-$19

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

WEST

Irish Times Bar and Restaurant (3 forks)

8869 Burlington Ave., Brookfield

708-485-8787

Charming Irish bar where you can imagine everybody really would know your name. Fish and chips, shepherd’s pie and Guinness on tap head the pubby menu.

Recommended: Shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, Irish fry.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.95 -$6.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

McNally’s Traditional Irish Pub (3 forks)

201 E. Main St., St. Charles

630-513-6300

If you’re used to being underwhelmed by Irish fare, this warm and winning pub will change your mind.

Recommended: Boxty, shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, Irish fry, hot apple crisp.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95-$15

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Bulgarian

CITY

Mario’s Caffe (2 forks)

5241 N. Harlem Ave.

773-594-9742

The best of Bulgaria and beyond is on the menu at this Norwood Park cafe with an intensely European atmosphere.

Recommended: Guvedze, shopska, snezanka, shish kebab, creme caramel.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.99-$14.99

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Reservations: Accepted

Other: No smoking in dining room

Cajun/Creole

CITY

Heaven on Seven on Rush **

600 N. Michigan Ave.

312-280-7774

The best Cajun-Creole food north of the French Quarter can now be found on Michigan Avenue. A sequel to Jimmy Bannos’ cult-favorite original on Wabash still going strong), Heaven on Seven on Rush (you enter via the building’s Rush Street doors) offers the same inspired cooking in larger surroundings with longer hours and full liquor service.

Recommended: Gumbo, barbecued shrimp, Mardi Gras etouffee, bread pudding, coconut cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$18.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTHWEST

Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen (3 forks)

798 W. Algonquin Rd., Arlington Heights

847-228-9551

921 Pasquinelli Dr., Westmont 630-455-9846

The terrific seafood alone should ensure diners a fine time, but the noisy, nautical-meets-N’Awlins atmosphere takes the experience to a whole different level. Be prepared for long waits.

Recommended: Fried alligator, oysters Pappadeaux; blackened opelousas.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$29.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Harrison’s Restaurant and Brewery (4 forks)

15845 LaGrange Rd., Orland Park

708-226-0100

This vibrant brewpub pays as much attention to its food as it does to its hand-crafted beers. The menu has a definite Cajun bias, and steaks and salads are top-notch. There is a cigar room, patio dining and polished, congenial service.

Recommended: Jambalaya, filet mignon, bayou shrimp pasta, Key Largo lime pie.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout; free parking.

Maple Tree Inn **

13301 S. Old Western Ave., Blue Island

708-388-3461

The former Beverly neighborhood mainstay has maintained its piquant character now that it has moved to the suburbs. Cajun-Creole appetizers often upstage the entrees.

Recommended: Hickory buttered barbecue shrimp, gumbo, pecan pie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10-$22

Credit cards: DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 8 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Free parking; carryout available.

Chinese

CITY

Emperor’s Choice **

2238 S. Wentworth Ave.

312-225-8800

One of the stars of Chinatown. Seafood is the specialty, as a glance at the menu will confirm. For the adventurous, there is also an “acquired taste” menu with such exotica as pork bellies with preserved greens and winter serpent (rattlesnake) soup.

Recommended: Pot stickers, spicy soft shell crab, sauteed shiitake mushrooms, lobster Peking-style, eight-treasure duck.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $6.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; discounted parking (with validation) at northeast corner of Cermak Road and Wentworth Avenue.

Hong Min **

221 W. Cermak Rd.

312-842-5026

This simple Chinatown mainstay is the embodiment of no-frills dining. But if you can do without table linens and stemware (and wine, for that matter, though you can bring your own), you will eat inexpensively and well. Dim sum served daily. (A second Hong Min at 8048 W. 11th St., Palos Hills, has the same menu, more space and a liquor license.)

Recommended: Hot and sour soup, curried chicken puffs.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$22

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more

Other: BYOB; discounted parking available.

Lao Sze Chuan (3 forks)

2172 S. Archer Ave.

312-326-5040

The Szechwan-style cooking in this Chinatown Square Mall storefront is delightfully restrained, using oil and hot peppers sparingly.

Recommended: Steamed sole, twice-cooked pork, Chinese eggplant.

Open: Dinnr and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$10.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Phoenix **

2131 S. Archer Ave.

312-328-0848

Uncommonly pretty dining rooms with city views, a daily dim sum service and an intriguing, well-executed menu make this arguably the best restaurant in Chinatown.

Recommended: Drunken crab, Buddha’s Delight, Peking duck, pork shu mai.

Open: Dinner and dim sum Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; discounted parking.

NORTH

Szechwan Kingdom (3 forks)

545 Waukegan Rd., Northbrook

847-562-1368

A respite from the hubbub of Brookside Plaza, Szechwan Kingdom’s strengths include an experienced culinary staff and very attractive dining rooms.

Recommended: Taiwan chicken roll, chicken with orange peel, Hunan mixed vegetables, lake Tungting shrimp.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended for parties of 5 or more

Other: Wheelchair accessible

WEST

House of Emperor (4 forks)

1212 S. Naper Blvd., Naperville

630-983-8284

This suburban restaurant serves a variety of dishes, especially seafood, with a breadth, sophistication and attention to service that many Chinatown establishments lack.

Recommended: Filet of sole, Emperor’s Special, shrimp and scallops in walnut sauce.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7-$24

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout available.

Uncle Lou (3 forks)

246 N. Cass Ave., Westmont

630-515-8889

At Uncle Lou you’ll find a lot of typical Chinese-American dishes, but you’ll also discover several steamed fish options, three kinds of Chinese greens and four different preparations of tofu. And there’s also a sushi bar.

Recommended: Rainbow roll, oxtail and spinach, twice-cooked pork.

Open: Dinner and lunch

Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Cuban

CITY

Ambassador Caffe (3 forks)

3605 N. Ashland Ave.

773-404-8770

Taking a seat at one of the eight tables in this unassuming storefront guarantees a hearty serving of satisfying Cuban home cooking.

Recommended: Yuca con mojo, El Famoso sandwich, Valencian paella, rueda de surrullo.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$14.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: BYOB; no smoking.

WEST

Cafe Cubano (3 forks)

7426 W. North Ave., Elmwood Park

708-456-6100

This quaint and colorful storefront is a suburban offshoot of the Cafe Bolero on Western Avenue. It serves a sizzling array of authentic Cuban favorites, and entrees come with ample side dishes: tender white rice, black beans and deep-fried sweet plantains.

Recommended: Stuffed yuca, ropa vieja, chicken stew, flan de leche.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.50-$22.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Copa Cubana (4 forks)

224 S. Main St., Naperville

630-983-2672

A converted laundromat has become a stylish storefront where chef Michael Munoz creates captivating Cuban cuisine. His dishes are traditional, distinguished more by textures and intense aromas than by heat; spice is a subtle layer rather than a dominant force.

Recommended: Shrimp ceviche, lobster paella, empanadas de langosta, ropa vieja, pork chops, cheese coconut flan.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10.25-$21.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Eclectic

CITY

The Outpost **

3438 N. Clark St.

773-244-1166

This quirky Wrigleyville restaurant is sort of a loose homage to the South Pacific trade route, embracing Southeast Asian influences on its eclectic menu. But most dishes work, nearly every entree is priced under $20 and the interesting wine list has lots of lesser-known and unknown bottles at attractive prices.

Recommended: Pheasant spring rolls, Colorado lamb shank, banana chocolate wonton.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Free parking lot

WEST

NEW

Kafe Kokopelli *

30 E. 1st St., Hinsdale

630-325-1996

A cute, 40-seat cafe attached to an even cuter retail shop, Kokopelli is a good place to know about if you’re shopping in downtown Hinsdale. The name and decor are Southwestern, but chef Robert Kearley’s food includes French and Italian accents as well. As a historical note, Kokopelli is the first recipient of a Hinsdale liquor license.

Recommended: Crab cakes, spinach salad, chicken rigatoni, pork chausseur.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $12.95-$27.95

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

Northwest

Eclectic ***

117 North Ave., Barrington,

847-277-7300

Chef Patrick Cassata gives full rein to his culinary whims at this delightful little cafe, gleefully mixing Greek and Thai idioms and giving every dish on his menu a dash of personality–and, often, chile pepper–though even the wildest-sounding dishes demonstrate careful moderation.

Recommended: Tuna and arugula spring roll, stuffed chicken breast, habanero ravioli, tres leches cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $17-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking

Filipino

CITY

Rambutan **

2049 W. Division St.

773-772-2727

Jennifer Aranas’ delightful “Filipino fusion” food, served tapas-style to encourage experimentation, is what draws people to this 65-seat West Side restaurant. Recommended: Lumpia, scallop ceviche, shrimp fritters, chocolate truffle cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.75-$13

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

WEST

Cebu (4 forks)

7329 Lemont Rd., Downers Grove

630-663-8803

At the elegantly appointed Cebu, you won’t encounter the heavy food found at some Philippine spots. Instead you’ll be treated to light, complex Asian cuisine with a definite nouvelle touch.

Recommended: Pancit guifado, mini egg rolls, vegetable lumpia, paella, Cebu rice.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95- $10.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Fondue

CITY

CLASSIC

Geja’s Cafe

340 W. Armitage Ave.

773-281-9101

Consistently recognized as the most romantic restaurant in Chicago in reader polls, this wildly popular fondue restaurant is dark and moody and features guitar music nightly. That, and the forced intimacy of shared cooking in hot oil, apparently does the trick. It’s possible to order a la carte entrees, but the premier dinners–which include cheese fondue, salad and chocolate fondue–are the way to go.

Recommended: Beef, scallop and lobster dinners–or combinations.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Dinner prices: $20-$37

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted Sun.-Thu.; accepted only until 6 p.m. Fri. and 5 p.m. Sat.

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking