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Star reviews are based on at least two visits by the Tribune critic.

* = Good

** = Very Good

*** = Excellent

**** = Outstanding

Fork reviews are based on one visit by a Tribune staffer.

(1 fork) = Good

(2 forks) = Very Good

(3 forks) = One of the best

(4 forks) = Don’t miss it

Credit card key

A American Express

DC Diners’ Club

DS Discover

M MasterCard

V Visa

NEW = A review added since the last Dining Guide

UPDATE = A restaurant revisited since the last Dining Guide

CLASSIC = A true Chicago institution

Mexican

CITY

Adobo Grill *

1610 N. Wells St.

312-266-7999

A very popular Mexican restaurant in Old Town, right next door to Second City comedy club, Adobo wows the tourists with its showy, made-to-order tableside-prepared guacamole service and its excellent margaritas. More serious foodies will appreciate the ambitious menu, and the selection of fine sipping tequilas.

Recommended: Guacamole, tortilla soup, snapper Veracruzana, arroz con leche.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$17/95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Chilpancingo ***

358 W. Ontario St.

312-266-9525

Geno Bahena’s second restaurant (he also owns Ixcapuzalco) is a more ambitious effort on all fronts: It’s a more formal and luxurious restaurant, is in a pricier neighborhood and offers a broader menu. But at the heart of it all is Bahena’s superior cooking, exemplified by outstanding mole sauces.

Recommended: Tostaditas de seviche, sopa de ajo, chicken breast in mole negro, salmon with peanut salsa, natillas classicas, Cafe Maya Xtabentun.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $14.50-$24.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Don Juan on Halsted **

1729 N. Halsted St.

312-981-4000

This sequel to Don Juan in Edison Park is a little more contemporary than the original. Patrick Concannon is a little freer with his nuevo Mexicano cooking here, introducing a menu of small tacos and burritos (all less than $8) for light munching.

Recommended: Crab cake, tuna tartare, six chili chicken, camarones al Diablo, apple cinnamon bread pudding, flan.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$20

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

El Tapatio (3 forks)

3400 N. Ashland Ave.

773-327-5475

Chicken fajitas, combination plates–there are no surprises on this Mexican menu, but rarely are these familiar foods done so well and consistently.

Recommended: Carne asada.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.95-$9.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Frontera Grill ***

445 N. Clark St.

312-661-1434

Mexican food takes on a whole new dimension at Frontera Grill, where the authentic regional cooking of chef Rick Bayless is unsurpassed, yet marvelously accessible in concept and price. Dining here is especially good with large parties, when sharing adds to the experience. The Saturday brunch is a fine option that isn’t as crowded as evening service. (See also Topolobampo, Frontera’s fine-dining sibling, at the same address.)

Recommended: Sopes, queso fundido, pork with pasilla sauce, crepes.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $9-$22

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible (elevator to lower-level restrooms); valet parking.

Ixcapuzalco **

2919 N. Milwaukee Ave.

773-486-7340

Geno Bahena’s first restaurant is a comfortable Logan Square spot named for the chef’s birthplace. The rustic food of Bahena’s youth figures prominently on the menu, which offers a different mole preparation each day.

Recommended: Daily mole dishes matched with chicken, duck breast and fish or quail, softshell crabs, lime-cured marlin.

Open: Dinner and lunch

Wed.-Mon.

Entree prices: $13.50-$17

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Salpicon ***

1252 N. Wells St.

312-988-7811

Priscila Satkoff turns out wonderful regional Mexican cooking–with an emphasis on her native Mexico City–at this Old Town restaurant, decorated with brightly colored walls and furniture, and even brighter colors on the Alejandro Romero paintings. There’s a well-chosen wine list and an impressive list of tequilas, too.

Recommended: Wild mushroom soup, octopus ceviche, shrimp mojo de ajo, tequila-marinated halibut, pollo yucateca, pastel tres leches.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Topolobampo *** 1/2

445 N. Clark St.

312-661-1434

Somewhere in this world there may be a better Mexican restaurant, but until it is discovered, Rick and Deanna Bayless’ breathtaking River North establishment will have to do. The kitchen is ever-instructive in its presentation of stunning regional cuisine. It can take weeks to secure a reservation, but dining here is worth whatever effort is required.

Recommended: Seviche moderna, tequila-cured salmon, garlic soup, stuffed trout, lime tart, homemade ice creams, chocolate pecan pie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $18-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

WEST

Las Bellas Artes **

112 W. Park Ave., Elmhurst

630-530-7725

This fine-dining outpost is good news for lovers of serious Mexican food in the suburbs. Not cheap, but the $32 prix-fixe dinner (five courses) is a good value.

Recommended: Black bean soup, chile relleno, chorizo pork loin, lamb, mole Amarillo.

Open: Dinner, 2:30 p.m. tea Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$25

Credit cards: DS, MC, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Salbute (4 forks)

20 E. 1st St., Hinsdale

630-920-8077

A 55-seat Mexican restaurant with boldly seasoned food, Salbute is fun, brash and definitely something different.

Recommended: Sea bass with blackberry sauce, chumayel, Salbute (achiote-marinated chicken), monte-bello (portobello mushroom in chipotle-goat cheese sauce).

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $13.95-$26.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout.

Tierra Grill (4 forks)

525 E. St. Charles Rd., Villa Park

630-941-9923

Sublime Mexican specialties at fast-food prices make this spot a real find. The menu is so varied that it’s best to approach your meal tapas-style by trying lots of different items, including the spectacular desserts. There’s no liquor license, but you can bring wine or beer. Then again, the space is small, so takeout may be the wiser option.

Recommended: Trenzas, Aztec tortilla soup, tres leches cake, chocolate bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $3.25-$8.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

NORTH

Wholly Frijoles Mexican Grill (3 forks)

3908 W. Touhy Ave., Lincolnwood

847-329-9810

Though this restaurant is small, it is genuinely welcoming, comfortable and cozy. It serves up a wide variety of Mexican dishes, including Chihuahua nachos and pollo relleno (two moist chicken breast halves with peppers).

Recommended: Chile relleno, pollo relleno, Chihuahua nachos, grilled steak nachos, mango cheesecake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $5.95- $9.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTHWEST

Mexico Uno (3 forks)

61 N. Bothwell St., Palatine

847-358-6856

This restaurant’s name may be Mexico Uno (One), but it should be Mexico Diez (Ten), for all the Gonzalez family members who work in the front and back of the house.

Recommended: Guacamole, caldo de pollo, Birria al Estilo Jalisco (goat-meat stew), carne a la parrilla (skirt steak), flan.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.50-$9.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Other: Carryout available; no smoking in dining room.

SOUTH

Cilantro (2 forks)

18755 Dixie Hwy., Homewood

708-798-3500

There’s a fiesta feeling at this adobe-hacienda-style restaurant, where owner Joe Mendez infuses the cocina Mexicana menu with family favorites.

Recommended: Portobello mushroom quesadilla, spinach quesadillas, carne con rajas, wood-grilled pollo, flan, tres leches cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout; outdoor patio.

Middle Eastern

CITY

Kan Zaman (3 forks)

5204 N. Clark St.

773-506-0191

This Andersonville restaurant has a pretty dining room to go with the accomplished Middle Eastern food.

Recommended: Hummus, falafel, lubia, dolma, stuffed cabbage, house specialty of fresh leeks sauteed in white wine with carrots, baklava, stuffed pears.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Belly dancing on weekends

Souk ***

1552 N. Milwaukee Ave.

773-227-1818

It is rare to find Middle Eastern food so appealingly prepared, in such eye-pleasing surroundings. Souk (the name means “market”) is a lively convergence of Turkish, Lebanese, Afghan and Persian dishes, assembled by a kitchen that uses spices to entice the palate, not overwhelm it. Knowledgeable and confident servers can help neophytes navigate the menu — though you probably could point at a selection with your eyes closed and still do all right.

Recommended: Cold appetizer assortment, shrimp chermoula, couscous Bahri, lahme steak, baklava.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $15-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

SOUTH

NEW

Little Egypt (3 forks)

Tiffany Square

7216 W. College Drive (119th Street), Palos Heights

708-923-0392

This space is enormous, like an old-fashioned supper club, with decorations that evoke ancient Egypt.

Recommended: Appetizer combo, fattush salad, stuffed grape leaves, catfish, shawerma beef.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$13.95

Credit cards: M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Other: Wheelchair accessible; vegetarian dishes.

Pan Asian

CITY

Ben Pao **

52 W. Illinois St.

312-222-1888

This Lettuce Entertain You restaurant is much improved since its early-1996 opening days. The menu is better focused, the cooking more consistent and service professional and communicative. Options include a grazer’s paradise of small dishes, including a handful of satays, and skillfully prepared main courses that range from the traditional to the adventurous. The bilevel dining room, done in black and fiery red, is sleek and soothing.

Recommended: Black pepper scallops, seven flavor beef, sesame chicken, banana cheesecake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $7.95-$25.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking at bar only.

Diosa Red *

3419 N. Clark St.

773-880-0001

Alan Yuen’s intensely personal Asian restaurant gleefully mixes and matches unrelated elements and still manages to create an agreeable whole. The menu embraces Chinese dumplings, Filipino eggrolls and Japanese bento-box assortments, and Eastern-European waitresses are outfitted in silk Suzy Wong-style dresses. The dramatic, red-drenched decor is offset by bright blue columns and cute blue-shaded lamps.

Recommended: Unagi rolls, shredded duck confit potstickers, shrimp with whiskey sauce, Atlantic salmon medallions, yin & yang chocolate mousse.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.

NEW

Du Yee (3 forks)

3203 N. Clark St.

773-549-5698

This appealing restaurant, a converted bakery, is notably stark and clean. The food, inspired by several Asian cuisines, is distinctive, assertively seasoned and very satisfying.

Recommended: Garlic chicken, Malaysian curry pancake, vegetable soongs.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95 to $17.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Red Light ***

820 W. Randolph St.

312-733-8880

This pan-Asian concept features a focused, easy-to-navigate menu by chef Paul Wildermuth. There are nibbles galore in addition to a half-dozen or so full-sized entrees, and tasting menus are available for the indecisive. There’s also a late-night menu that kicks in about 11 p.m.

Recommended: Ahi tuna tempura, five spice ribs, grilled quail, gingered pork dumplings, Taiwanese catfish, Wai Chee duck, housemade sorbets.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $17-$33

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NEW

Vong’s Thai Kitchen **

6 W. Hubbard St.

312-644-8664

The old Vong was redesigned last year, its prices lowered, its decor brightened and its French-Thai fusion menu simplified into something more recognizably Thai, albeit with a few contemporary twists.

Recommended: Thai spring rolls, tuna-wasabi pizza, spice-crusted halibut, lemongrass chicken, Thai tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

WEST

NEW

New Pot Rice & Noodles (3 forks)

727 Lake St., Oak Park

708-383-1682

Asian noodle restaurants are becoming as pervasive as Greek and Italian, but New Pot has its understated charms and polite service.

Recommended: Shumai, Hanoi noodle soup, grilled beef salad.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat., dinner Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$9.95

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Chi Tung (4 forks)

9560 S. Kedzie Ave., Evergreen Park

708-636-8180

When Chi Tung moved around the corner to its present location, the quality of the food remained the same: excellent.

Recommended: Sushi, barbecued rib appetizer, beef nom tok, General Tsao’s chicken, moo shu pork.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $2.95 -$9.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Persian/Turkish

CITY

A La Turka (3 forks)

3134 N. Lincoln Ave.

773-935-6447

From its weekend entertainment — a belly dancer gyrates among tables and families crowd the dance floor — to its made-to-share sampler plates, conviviality is served in ample portions here. The Turkish menu is a zesty blend of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influences.

Recommended: Karisik meze, karisik izgara, manti, baked eggplant.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10-$17

Credit cards: DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Reza’s **

5255 N. Clark St.

773-561-1898

The pungent scent of charcoal grilling lets you know you’ve come to the right place. Copious portions of carefully prepared, prettily presented food are offered at very reasonable prices. There’s a very good wine list, too. In River North, a second Reza’s, at 432 W. Ontario St. (which actually is a former microbrewery), is virtually identical.

Recommended: Lamb shank, cornish hen with pomegranate sauce, grilled shrimp, baklava.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.95-$17.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Other: Parking lot

Polish

CITY

Lutnia *

5532 W. Belmont Ave.

773-282-5335

An elegant, brightly lit anachronism, where service is ritualistic and the menu reminiscent of years ago — especially with its emphasis on flamed-tableside entrees and desserts. But you’re better off skipping the flambe act in favor of the straightforward Polish dishes.

Recommended: Tableside duck flambe, pierogi assortment, bigos (hunter’s stew), beef roll, stuffed quail, peach flambe.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $6-$25

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends.

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTH

Polo (2 forks)

8801 N. Milwaukee Ave., Niles 847-470-8822

Decor is unassuming inside and out, but the tasty, homespun Polish and Eastern European specialties make this place worth a visit.

Recommended: Polo combo plate, roast duck, veal, sweet table including carrot cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.50-$15.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended for parties of 6 or more

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Russian

CITY

Russian Tea Time **

77 E. Adams St.

312-360-0000

A delightful, handsome and surprisingly sophisticated ethnic gem, Russian Tea Time offers a wide-ranging and authentic menu of dishes from Russia and neighboring republics.

Recommended: Caviar and blinis, samsas (chopped-meat-filled pastries), vereniky (potato-stuffed pasta), pelmeni (chicken-filled tortellini), beef stroganoff.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Seafood

CITY

Atlantique ***

5101 N. Clark St.

773-275-9191

Featuring twin dining rooms decorated with sea-green wainscotting and a colorful array of papier-mache sea creatures made by a local artist, this impressive Andersonville restaurant offers sophisticated, prettily presented seafood at very reasonable prices–most entrees are $20 or less.

Recommended: Crab cake Napoleon, veal sweetbreads, tuna tartare, bouillabaisse, Pacific salmon, N. Y. strip steak, bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Avenues ***

The Peninsula Chicago

108 E. Superior St.

312-573-6754

The fanciest seafood restaurant in Chicago and by far the most expensive, Avenues dazzles with its assortment of European fish and chef Gerhard Doll’s distinctive French style. The dining room is a bit staid-looking, but Doll’s plates are strikingly modern and his flavors superb. The business lunch, a three- or two-course repast, is a relative bargain.

Recommended: Tournedos of langoustines, salt-crusted whole seabass, turbot, bittersweet chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Dinner prices: 3-course prix fixe, $69; 6-course tasting menu, $95.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Valet parking; no smoking.

Blue Point Oyster Bar *

741 W. Randolph St.

312-207-1222

Wood-shuttered windows and retro signage highlight the look of this circa-1940s East Coast fish house, which takes its oysters very seriously (at least eight varieties featured daily) and does good-to-excellent work on its other offerings.

Recommended: Crawfish, fresh oysters, grilled octopus, grilled scallops, sesame-crusted Ahi tuna, mile high chocolate cake, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14.95-$39.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

CLASSIC

Cape Cod Room

Drake Hotel

140 E. Walton Pl.

312-787-2200

This veteran hotel seafooder still outfits its waiters in bright-blue, gold-braided jackets and sports a dark nautical decor that dates back decades. But the seafood is still reliably good, whether it’s fist-sized oysters at the bar, classic Dover sole or a contemporary dish from the “new Cape Cod” section of the menu.

Recommended: Bookbinder soup, smoked-salmon and smoked-trout terrine, lobster thermidor.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $22-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab **

60 E. Grand Ave.

312-379-5637

This half-sibling to the famous Joe’s Stone Crab in Miami is open year-round, even when stone crabs are out of season, which explains the mouthful of a name. Stone crabs are the highlight, of course, but very good prime steaks and decent seafood should keep the crowds happy in the summer months, too.

Recommended: Stone crab claws, shrimp de jonghe, crab cakes, lamb chops, bone-in filet, N.Y. strip steak, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $17.95-$39.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

McCormick & Schmick’s **

41 E. Chestnut St.

312-397-9500

A West-Coast-based chain with impeccably fresh seafood and customer-friendly, if quirky, prices, McCormick & Schmick’s Chicago link is handsome and clubby, with just enough Prairie School decor touches to make it look local. The enormous menu reflects the day’s catch, and fresh oysters are a specialty. An early-bird and late-night bar menu offers a handful of dishes at a bargain ($1.95) price.

Recommended: Crab cakes, cedar-roasted steelhead, cashew-crusted mahi mahi, upside-down apple pie.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$39.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Nick’s Fishmarket **

1 First National Plaza

312-621-0200

This venerable Loop seafooder has a casual grill for light dining upstairs, and a pretty, formal dining room below. Up or down, the restaurant’s strengths are excellent fish and shell fish and extremely attentive service.

Recommended: Grilled shrimp scampi, Chilean sea bass, seared ahi tuna, Dover sole, mahi-mahi, creme brulee, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $24.95-$47

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking at dinner.

Riva *

Navy Pier,

700 E. Grand Ave.

312-644-RIVA

Riva boasts unparalleled views of the lakeshore, flawless creature comforts and an Italian-accented seafood menu. In general, simple dishes outshine the ambitious-sounding ones. Prices may be eye-popping to the unprepared, but there is that great view.

Recommended: Fried calamari, shrimp cocktail, crab cakes, rock shrimp spaghetti, tiramisu.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

UPDATE

Shaw’s Crab House ***

21 E. Hubbard St.

312-527-2722

1900 E. Higgins Rd., Schaumburg

847-517-2722

Great fish, great oysters and great variety are the hallmarks of these seafood houses, which recently added Japanese maki rolls to the menu. The downtown location wears its 1940s look well, and the adjacent Blue Crab Lounge offers music frequently. The Schaumburg spot boasts the Red Shell, a less-formal adjunct with a moderate, shrimp-rich menu.

Recommended: Crab cakes, sashimi tuna, oysters, blue crab fingers, Dover sole, grilled salmon, N’Awlins spicy shrimp, Key lime pie, pecan pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14.95-$59.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

WEST

120 Ocean Place **

120 Hale St., Wheaton

630-690-2100

Amid soaring peaked ceilings (the space was once a church, as the stained-glass window testifies) and faux-marble columns, this west-suburban restaurant cranks out terrific seafood. The large menu, which changes daily, offers plenty of variety.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, oysters, spicy shrimp, Maine diver scallops, grilled striped bass, pepper-grilled mahi mahi, tartufo, creme brulee, lemon tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12.95-$31.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Parkers’ Ocean Grill **

1000 31st St., Downers Grove

630-960-5701

A strikingly handsome seafood restaurant with mahogany-clad walls, hardwood floors and white linen-topped tables. The globally influenced menu offers few surprises, but most dishes are capably executed, and service is attentive and very well trained.

Recommended: Nachos chinois, grilled grouper, cedar-roasted sturgeon, ice cream tower, chocolate gateau.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $11.95-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

Philander’s **

1120 Pleasant St., Oak Park

708-848-4250

This long-dormant Oak Park seafooder has improved vastly over the last couple of years; the menu is more ambitious, waiters more professional and the food more consistently interesting. And the bar is still a reliable destination for good live music.

Recommended: Macadamia-crusted shrimp, crab cakes, grilled salmon roulade, malt chocolate banana bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon. – Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTHWEST

Bob Chinn’s Crab House **

393 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling

847-520-3633

A visit here makes it readily apparent why this is the highest-volume restaurant in the area (and one of the highest in the nation). Bob Chinn serves the freshest possible seafood (his bills of lading are posted for all to see) at very reasonable prices. Cooking isn’t fancy–nearly everything is steamed or grilled–but it suits the ingredients. The sprawling dining room is similarly low on frills, but friendly, expeditious service and quality components are ample compensation.

Recommended: Dungeness crab, calamari, shrimp, crabmeat vermicelli, Kona crab, blue crab claws, Key lime pie, cheesecake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15.95-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Phil Smidt’s (3 forks)

1205 N. Calumet Ave., Hammond, Ind.

800-376-4534

This 450-seat Northern Indiana mainstay has been drawing Chicagoans to its pan-fried perch and frog legs specialties for decades. One taste and you’ll know why.

Recommended: Perch, frog legs, baked salmon, walleye pike, gooseberry pie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $11.50-$46.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Soul/Southern

CITY

Army & Lou’s **

422 E. 75th St.

773-483-3100

This place is a South Side treasure. The handsome decor features linen-topped tables and a soothing red-and-cream color scheme. Walls are adorned with African and Haitian art. Yet prices remain low. Ribs are very good, and the fried chicken is arguably the best in town.

Recommended: Mustard and turnip greens, fried chicken, barbecued ribs, fried catfish, peach cobbler.

Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Wed.-Mon.

Entree prices: $5.95-$19.95.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Other: Wheelchair accessible; small parking lot adjoins building.

Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop (3 forks)

5225 S. Harper Ave.

773-363-7723

825 Church St., Evanston

847-733-9030

With its weathered trim, motley collection of wooden kitchen chairs and old porcelain-enameled stoves, the Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop could be at home along a Mississippi bayou.

Recommended: Fried green tomatoes, peach-glazed chicken wings, blackened chicken breast salad, New Orleans-style oyster po’boy, gumbo, jambalaya.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95-$10.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

NORTHWEST

Biloxi Grill ***

313 E. Liberty St., Wauconda

847-526-2420

The Greenery cofounders David and Catherine Koelling run this rustic charmer on the shore of Bangs Lake, serving regional Southern dishes that have no equal in this part of the world. The main dining room and outdoor deck offer splendid lake views.

Recommended: Sauteed oysters, seafood gumbo, barbecued shrimp, pecan coated Mississippi catfish, berry cobbler.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Spanish

CITY

Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba! ***

2024 N. Halsted St.

773-935-5000

One of the best places in Chicago to sample tapas, in a convivial if noisy atmosphere. There are also entree options, including several versions of paella, but the wide assortment of tapas dishes remains the big draw. During the summer, the 89-seat outdoor garden (with retractable canopy) is one of the most popular destinations in the city.

Recommended: Ternera asada, Spanish omelet, paella Valenciana, suckling pig, profiteroles.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.95-$15.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Emilio’s Tapas ***

444 W. Fullerton Ave.

773-327-5100

The dining rooms are comfortable and spacious, decorated with lace curtains and colorful tile murals. The menu is virtually identical to that of Emilio Gervilla’s original restaurant in Hillside.

Recommended: Tortilla espanola, stuffed eggplant, grilled Atlantic salmon, pato con peras, pan perdido, platanos con helado.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Fri.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.95-$16.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible (separate entrance)

NEW

Twist (3 forks)

3412 N. Sheffield Ave.

773-388-2727

This is like stepping into a postcard photo of a tapas bar in Spain, except with an ongoing ebb and flow of 20-something Chicago in search of a bargain and finding, in addition, an upbeat culinary adventure.

Recommended: Garlic potato salad, grilled beef tenderloin with blue cheese, chicken breast with lemon-caper sauce, grilled shrimp.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Tapas prices: $2.95 -$8.95

Credit cards: M,V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

WEST

Emilio’s Tapas Bar Restaurant **

4100 W. Roosevelt Rd., Hillside 708-547-7177

This small restaurant has a rustic, cozy Spanish atmosphere with wonderful, satisfying food. Emilio’s menu lists more than 18 tapas along with daily specials.

Recommended: Garlic potato salad, spicy chicken wings, paella, sangria, rice pudding.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14.50-$18.50

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted; accepted only for parties of 6 or more Fri.-Sat.

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Meson Sabika ***

1025 Aurora Ave., Naperville, 630-983-3000

This “house on a hill,” to translate its name, is a former member of Emilio Gervilla’s tapas empire, operated by a former partner. The same formula prevails on the menu–a bountiful array of hot and cold tapas, plus a small number of full-sized entrees–though Meson’s mansion setting and pretty outdoor area are big pluses.

Recommended: Roasted veal with raspberry vinaigrette, Spanish piquillo peppers stuffed with crabmeat, black bean soup.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $5-$12

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTHWEST

La Tasca (3 forks)

25 W. Davis St., Arlington Heights

847-398-2400

Innovative touches and diverse flavors abound in this lively tapas restaurant.

Recommended: Grilled eggplant with seafood salad, champinones rellenos, rice pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $3.75-$16.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Steak

CITY

Carmichael’s Chicago Steak House **

1052 W. Monroe St.

312-433-0025

Acres-of-oak decor, vintage posters, Prairie-School accents and garter-sleeved waiters give Carmichael’s a generations-old appearance. Despite the touristy look, however, this is a comfortable restaurant with very good Angus Beef steaks.

Recommended: Crab cakes, barbecued shrimp, plank- roasted Atlantic salmon, porterhouse al forno, bone-in ribeye, triple pork chop, bourbon bread pudding, bag-baked apple pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun, lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $15.95-$49.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.

Eli’s the Place for Steak **

215 E. Chicago Ave.

312-642-1393

A Chicago original, Eli’s offers a quiet, almost stately atmosphere, understated service and superior steaks. And, of course, the cheesecakes are a national treasure. The cocktail lounge is a great place to unwind.

Recommended: Shrimp de jonghe, steaks, sauteed calf liver, potato pancakes, cheesecake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $18.95-$34

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Gene & Georgetti ***

500 N. Franklin St.

312-527-3718

As an old-fashioned “real guy” steakhouse, this place is unsurpassed. A see-and-be-seen restaurant of another age, Gene & Georgetti attracts a loyal and regular clientele, who come to view the politicians and enjoy the massive, impeccably prepared steaks.

Recommended: Strip steak, lamb chops, calf liver, chicken Vesuvio, prime rib, garbage salad, cheesecake, spumoni.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14-$38.75

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.

Gibsons **

1028 N. Rush St.

312-266-8999

One of the city’s finest steakhouses, as the crowded dining room and even more crowded bar attest. Strengths include an attractive interior, superior beef and knowledgeably opinionated waiters.

Recommended: Chopped liver, spinach salad, onion rings, filet mignon, barbecued ribs, strawberry shortcake, chocolate hazelnut tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $21.75-$33

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

The Grill on the Alley **

909 N. Michigan Ave.,

312-255-9009

Unapologetically old-fashioned, this copy of the original Grill on the Alley in Beverly Hills is as straightforward as they come. Beef and seafood, much of it broiled and simply sauced, dominate the offerings, though there are plenty of salads for lighter eaters. The spacious, 225-seat dining room is clubby and comfortable; white-jacketed waiters are very professional.

Recommended: Dungeness crab cocktail, sashimi tuna, steaks, chops, broiled sea bass, prime rib, strawberry shortcake.

Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.50-$29.75

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

The Grillroom **

33 W. Monroe St.

312-960-0000

Across the street from the Shubert Theatre and within walking distance of at least four others, The Grillroom is an ideal pre-theater destination (and handy Loop lunch spot) , which is why the menu ranges far beyond most steakhouse staples. But you can’t go wrong with the aged steaks, which are richly flavored and cooked precisely to temperature.

Recommended: Steakhouse wings, ribeye steak, filet mignon, fallen souffle cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $9.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Harry Caray’s **

33 W. Kinzie St.

312-828-0966

10233 W. Higgins Rd., Rosemont

847-699-1200

Legendary baseball broadcaster Harry Caray died in 1998, but his spirit lives on in this bustling place, an Italian steakhouse with sports-themed decor and an old-fashioned charm personified by white-jacketed, eagerly accommodating service. The award-winning wine list is a distinct plus. The Rosemont location opened in 1999.

Recommended: Grilled baby octopus, lamb chops oreganato, chicken Vesuvio, Sicilian veal chop, tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $11.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Magnum’s Prime Steakhouse **

225 W. Ontario St.

312-337-8080

777 E. Butterfield Rd., Lombard

630-573-1010

1701 W. Golf Rd., Rolling Meadows

847-952-8555

Despite the macho name, this city steakhouse and its suburban siblings are sophisticated and civilized. Decor is stylish, service is knowing (if a bit by-the-numbers) and steaks are first-rate. Do be prepared to deal with noise.

Recommended: Lobster tail, ribeye steak, lamb chops, veal chop.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch (suburbs only) Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.95-$85

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Bring earplugs

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Mike Ditka’s Restaurant *

Tremont Hotel

100 E. Chestnut St.

312-587-8989

The namesake of former Bears coach Mike Ditka, this is a predictably masculine place with sports-memorabilia decor, second-floor cigar lounge and a menu of steaks and chops. It’s more sophisticated than it sounds, actually, and the food typically is very good. Steer clear when there’s a big convention in town, though.

Recommended: Oyster shooter, DA pork chop.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat., Sun.

Entree prices: $10.89-$32.89

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Millennium **

832 W. Randolph St.

312-455-1400

In the heart of Randolph Street’s convergence of trendy restaurants sits this unabashedly classic steakhouse, which emphasizes prime, house-aged beef.

Recommended: Grilled crab legs, spicy calamari, porterhouse, smoked prime rib, Chocolate Churchill.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.; lunch Wed.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13-$33

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Morton’s of Chicago ***

1050 N. State St.

312-266-4820

You won’t find a better steak than the thick, beefy beauties cooked here. The attractive dining room does a good job of overcoming its windowless basement locale; tables are close together, but it’s a convivial crowd. Civilized touches include excellent service, a very good wine list and classy ambience. The most expensive steakhouse in town, but worth every penny.

Recommended: Steaks, veal chop, baked potato, dessert souffle for two.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $19.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; discount parking with validation.

The Palm **

Swissotel Chicago

323 E. Wacker Drive

312-616-1000

Big steaks and bigger lobsters, served with utter lack of pretension and fuss, are what you’ll find in this chain’s Chicago chapter, ensconced in snazzy digs, including an outdoor patio.

Recommended: Crab cakes, N.Y. strip steak, lamb chops, lobster, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$35

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House **

431 N. Dearborn St.

312-321-2725

933 Skokie Blvd., Northbrook

847-498-6889

This large chain’s two Chicago-area outposts can hold their own with the veterans of the local steakhouse scene. Comfortable surroundings and pampering service are perks, and the steaks — especially the porterhouse, which is sized for two or three diners — are excellent. Appetizers are a bit scrawny, but they’re hardly necessary, as the steaks are humongous.

Recommended: Tenderloin, porterhouse, veal chop, Caesar salad, potatoes au gratin, chocolate mousse cheesecake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Shula’s Steak House **

Sheraton Chicago Hotel & Towers

301 E. North Water St.

312-670-0788

Wyndham Northwest Chicago

400 Park Blvd., Itasca

630-775-1499

The winningest coach in NFL history has a hot streak going with his signature chain, now grown to 15 locations. The menu is printed on a regulation football, the walls are festooned with pictures of Shula’s undefeated 1972 Miami Dolphins and the only thing you’ll ever hear on the sound system is Frank Sinatra. But the aged steaks are very good and service is prompt and accommodating. Note: The Itasca location also serves breakfast and lunch (no lunch Sundays).

Recommended: Barbecued shrimp, porterhouse steak, prime rib, chocolate souffle for two.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18.95-$65.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Validated valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Smith & Wollensky **

318 N. State St.

312-670-9900

This impressive steakhouse sits at the base of Marina City. Part of a New York chain, it offers succulent, aged-on-premises steaks, hefty lobsters dusted with cayenne pepper and a monstrous twice-cooked pork shank. The light-filled dining room is decorated with American art; an outdoor patio overlooks the Chicago River. The downstairs Wollensky’s Grill offers smaller-portioned steaks and keeps late-night hours.

Recommended: Crab cakes, lobster cocktail, Wollensky salad, sirloin steak, Angry Lobster, apple betty.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $17.50-$35

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTH

Pete Miller’s Steakhouse (3 forks)

1557 Sherman Ave., Evanston 847-328-0399

You’ll find serious steaks and seafood at this handsome restaurant, which has an adjacent jazz lounge.

Recommended: Fried calamari, prime burger, bone-in ribeye, rack of lamb.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $17-$50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

WEST

Giannotti’s Steak House (2 forks)

17W400 22nd St., Oakbrook Terrace

630-833-2700

This Italian steakhouse is traditional, comfortable — and invariably packed.

Recommended: Stuffed artichoke, chicken Vesuvio, pork chops, tiramisu.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $11.95-$27.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; lunch buffet.

SOUTH

Jack Gibbons Garden (2 forks)

14700 Oak Park Ave., Oak Forest

708-687-2331

Affectionately known simply as Gibbons, this modest-looking steakhouse has been serving superior beef for more than 75 years.

Recommended: Prime rib, filet mignon, shrimp de jonghe, fudge brownie sundae.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10.95-$22.95

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Accepted Sun.-Fri.; accepted only for parties of 5 or more Sat.

Other: Valet parking

Krapil’s (2 forks)

6600 W. 111th St., Worth

708-448-2012

A rustic-looking, old-fashioned steakhouse where the placemat is also the menu (prices aren’t listed) and steaks come in big, bigger and enormous sizes.

Recommended: T-bone steak, strip steak.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.50-$57.75

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Recommended for parties of 6 or more

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Swedish

CITY

CLASSIC

Ann Sather

929 W. Belmont Ave.

773-348-2378

A warm and friendly hangout that has nurtured a generation of budget-conscious diners, Ann Sather’s is pure comfort, from the legendary cinnamon rolls at breakfast to the blueberry pie at night. Entrees include a starter course and a couple of side dishes, and no one walks away hungry. There are three other Ann Sather locations scattered about the North Side, but only this location serves dinner every night.

Recommended: Duck with lingonberry sauce, Swedish meatballs, pickled herring, cinnamon rolls.

Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.50-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted only for parties 6 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Free parking lot in rear

Thai

CITY

NEW

Amarind’s (4 forks)

6822 W. North Ave.

773-889-9999

Amarind’s is too good to be true. The interior is unassuming–and spotless. Thai artwork on the walls is handsome. The Thai menu offers high-class fare that just doesn’t cost very much.

Recommended: Tom yum shrimp soup, spicy curry pork, moo ping, bay scallop salad, spinach noodles with seafood.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun, lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $7.95-$10.95

Credit cards: A, D, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Arun’s ****

4156 N. Kedzie Ave.

773-539-1909

The finest, most upscale Thai food you’ll ever experience is available at this Northwest Side jewel, a picture-perfect, cleanly elegant space decorated with beautiful artwork. Arun Sampanthavivat’s food is artistically noteworthy, too, beautifully presented and stunning in its complexity and exotic ingredients and flavors. There is no set menu; Arun’s features a Chef’s Design Menu, a multi-course dinner selected by Arun after consulting patrons’ preferences, dietary requirements and spice tolerance. The wine list is small, but every bottle is carefully chosen for its affinity to Thai flavors.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Dinner price: 12-course tasting menu, $85

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

NEW

Erawan **

729 N. Clark St.

312-642-6888

Two former Arun’s workers are part of the partnership behind this pretty River North restaurant, which is decorated with stunning Thai artworks, including a replica khan tho roof. Art Lee’s food is firmly Thai-rooted, but it boldly incorporates Western ingredients and techniques.

Recommended: Chicken and foie gras shu mai, venison satay, whole red snapper, tea-smoked poussin.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

NEW

Sweet Tamarind (4 forks)

1408 W. Diversey Pkwy.

773-281-5300

The extra “atmospheric” mile that the owners take in ambience and food presentation pushed the fork count to four at this pleasant spot. A solid menu of delicious Thai favorites.

Recommended: Tom yum hot-and-sour soup, phat kee mao spaghetti, walnut and raisin fried rice, pumpkin custard tart.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise level: Hushed

Other: No MSG used

Thai Classic (2 forks)

3332 N. Clark St.

773-404-2000

This attractive, spotless restaurant, just a few blocks south of Wrigley Field, rises above the crowd of Thai restaurants by virtue of its well-prepared, scrupulously fresh food and its charming, contemporary decor. The restaurant offers a $9.95 buffet from noon-10 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.

Recommended: Golden cups, steamed mussels, tom yum talay, Thai Classic soup, orchid chicken, seafood treasure, coconut ice cream.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; BYOB.

Thai Pastry (4 forks)

4925 N. Broadway

773-784-5399

The word “Pastry” in the sign for this Thai spot has led quite a few would-be diners to assume this is only a bakery. Yet most of the room is devoted to a restaurant that seats about 50. Flavors are as fresh and bright as could be hoped for, and the restaurant does indeed offer dessert; try the startlingly realistic miniature “fruit” made of sweetened bean paste.

Recommended: Spring rolls, Tom yom koong, crying tiger chicken, kuchai, chicken larb.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$17.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTH

Noodle Garden (2 forks)

1241 Chicago Ave., Evanston

847-332-2775

The less familiar the dish, the better at this north suburban spot; when in doubt, you’ll get good advice from your waiter.

Recommended: Yellow curry chicken.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.95-$10.95

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout and delivery.

Vietnamese

CITY

NEW

Hai Yen Restaurant (3 forks)

1055 W. Argyle St.

773-561-4077

The menu at this neat, classy spot stars Vietnamese items, with particular attention paid to regional variances. A few Chinese dishes play supporting roles.

Recommended: Bo nhung giam, cang cua boc tom, che ba mau.

Open: Dinner and lunch Thu.-Tue.

Entree prices: $6.50-$13.95

Reservations: Accepted

Credit cards: M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Le Colonial **

937 N. Rush St.

312-255-0088

A stylish restaurant with colonial-French decor and a dark upstairs bar that draws a young Gold Coast crowd. A user-friendly menu and moderate spicing makes it attractive for newcomers.

Recommended: Beef salad, spring rolls, seared monkfish, filet mignon, Chilean sea bass, whole snapper, banana wonton.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

Monaco (3 forks)

4941 N. Broadway

773-878-8811

Though this Vietnamese restaurant is small, with only six tables, the power of Monaco resides in its kitchen. It offers more than 160 menu items, with soup accounting for a large portion of the menu. Entrees are huge but inexpensive.

Recommended: Simmered catfish in a clay pot, spicy mussels, Monaco special plate, pho tai nam.

Open: Dinner and lunch Wed.-Mon.

Entree prices: $4.50- $9.95

Credit cards: A, D, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Pasteur ***

5525 N. Broadway

773-878-1061

A tropical-cool dining room with sherbet-colored walls, rattan chairs and tropical plants is home to what is arguably Chicago’s finest Vietnamese food. Those who remember Pasteur from its no-frills Sheridan Road days will be especially delighted.

Recommended: Spicy beef salad, grilled curry beef, dungeness crab, grilled sea scallops with shrimp.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot after 6:30 p.m.