In Paris before World War I, the celebrated correspondent A.J. Liebling once wrote, “Even a bourgeois seduction was accompanied by an 18-course meal.”
Michael Lachowicz was not cooking in that era. He was not even born until more than half a century later. But if time travel were possible, I feel confident the chef and co-owner of Les Deux Gros in Glen Ellyn would happily dial himself back to that area.
It’s not that he’s a voluptuary–well, actually, he is. As the larger of Les Deux Gros (loosely translated as the two fat guys, his brother Thomas being the lesser half of what is an equal partnership) and the man who orders the groceries, he alone accepts responsibility for the lobsters, foie gras, truffles, wild mushrooms, squab and beef that pepper his menu. Quails–note the plural, not one but two–are stuffed with risotto that has been studded with truffle and foie gras. Sole from Dover is wrapped in puff pastry and served with a limpid butter sauce. A veloute (cream-enriched soup) of smoked duck is garnished with fried leeks.
“My stuff is pretty rich,” chef Lachowicz acknowledges, “and pretty classic. When I do a reduction I am seeking the peak of flavor, not thinking about my health. I go for the optimum with each dish I make. I can overshoot, but that’s what I enjoy.”
He apprenticed with two great chefs, Jean Banchet and then Roland Liccione, at Le Francais, learning finesse and elegance as well as how to hit caloric home runs. Nearly four years ago, with his brother supplying “the wine and the money,” the chef took a gamble that west suburban diners were not hopelessly addicted to casual fare and, on occasion at least, had an appetite for an evening of fine food and wine.
He was right. Most evenings these days, the cozy dining room at 462 N. Park Blvd. is full. (So is Cochon Sauvage, the cheery bistro the brothers have opened nearby in Wheaton.) As befits a handcrafted, multi-course meal, the pace is not rapid. Nor is every dish robust. One of the chef’s most popular dessert treats, especially in the summer, is a delightfully light “soup” of macerated fruit. Here’s the recipe.
FRUIT SOUP, A DELIGHTFUL DESSERT
Six servings
For the soup:
2 stalks lemongrass, bottom 4 inches, sliced on a bias
1 vanilla bean, Tahitian preferred, cut in half lengthwise and crosswise
3 whole cloves
1 piece star anise
1 1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, sliced on a bias
6 leaves fresh cilantro
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup dry vermouth
Pinch salt
2 tablespoons orange liqueur such as Grand Marnier
For the garnish:
3 tablespoons diced mango
3 tablespoons diced papaya
3 tablespoons diced pineapple
3 tablespoons diced strawberries
12 black grapes, Corinth (Champagne) preferred
18 raspberries
6 fresh figs, kadota or black mission, quartered
6 scoops fruit sorbet of choice
6 sprigs mint
6 tablespoons Champagne
1. In a double thickness of cheesecloth wrap the sliced lemongrass, vanilla bean, cloves, star anise, sliced ginger and cilantro. Tie with string.
2. In a small saucepan, combine 3/4 cup water, sugar, vermouth, salt and orange liqueur. Bring to a simmer and when sugar has dissolved, remove from heat and add the bag of aromatics. Cover the pan and let steep for 30 minutes. Chill until cold. Add mango, papaya, pineapple and strawberries. Chill thoroughly through the day or overnight.
3. When ready to serve, remove cheesecloth bag, squeeze into soup and discard.
4. To serve, arrange grapes, raspberries and figs in each of six bowls. Pour chilled soup into each bowl atop fruit. There should be about 1/4 cup per serving. Add sorbet scoops and garnish with mint. Finish by adding a tablespoon of Champagne to each bowl. Serve at once.
