(2 forks)
1707 W. Division St.
773-278-1753
Hours: 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Mon.–Thurs.; 11 a.m.-4 a.m. Fri.–Sat.; 2 p.m.-1 a.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, M, V for orders of $15 or more.
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
This long narrow pizzeria in Wicker Park is not the place for a big family sit-down dinner. The biggest table seats three, and that’s only if one sits on the stool in the aisle. Diners can also opt for one of the eight seats at the lunch counter, facing the bustling cooking area. Soccer scarves, flags and jerseys decorate the orange walls. Customers dine to the sounds of Italian-accented orders being relayed over the love songs of WLIT. On both of our visits the place was full of young diners from the neighborhood and those waiting for takeout. We suggest you join the latter group.
On the plate
Medium-thick pizza in square slices with the usual toppings as well as combos like blue cheese and chicken, potato and rosemary, and the inclusive “garbage.” Pasta specials change daily but the regular menu features gnocchi, tortellini, ravioli and lasagna. Eggplant Parmesan, minestrone, simple salads and homemade desserts round out the concise menu.
At your service
Our server was harried while simultaneously conveying a cooler-than-thou attitude. Although he didn’t have much time for us, he did have time to chat with a woman who was smoking at the next table despite the big “no smoking” sign next to her. When we ordered by phone one night, we could almost hear the waiter rolling his eyes, because we had the nerve to ask for recommendations. Still, when we arrived to pick up the food, the staff was nice as can be.
Second helpings
Although served on a plastic plate with a plastic fork that is wrapped in a plastic bag, the beautifully dressed Caesar salad is fresh, tangy and studded with crunchy garlic croutons. We liked that our terrific, crisp potato and rosemary pizza slice came out piping hot from the oven but didn’t like finding that it had melted through our Styrofoam takeout box. When we dined in, we tried the tasty blue cheese pizza with cubes of chicken breast that was served on a cutting board. The eggplant Parmesan has a great garlicky sauce, velvety eggplant cutlets and plenty of sharp cheese flavor. Panna cotta is simple, creamy and full of clean vanilla flavor.
Take a pass
We liked the fennel flavor of the sausage pizza, but the quantity is more like a sprinkling than topping. The sauce is almost as scarce. Stale, flat profiteroles have very little cream filling. The gnocchi are light but the four-cheese sauce is bland for a blend that is supposed to include Gorgonzola.
Thirst quenchers
Regular sodas as well as Italian sparkling waters and those delicious but tiny San Pellegrino orange and lemon drinks. Espresso and cappuccino here are excellent. Folks can bring their own wine without a corkage charge, but, says the owner, “You just have to let us help you finish it.”
Extras
Pastas come with warm, brown, but cottony rolls.
Price range
Salads, $4.40-$5.25; pizza slices, $2.40-$3.40; whole pizzas, $16-$22; pasta, $6.10-$7.25; desserts, $1.60-$5; drinks, $1.20-$3.30.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Chicago Tribune.
Ratings key:
4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
