(2 forks)
4200 N. Lincoln Ave.
773-549-5555
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
The restaurant occupies a corner in the North Center neighborhood, just a few hundred yards from rehabbed condos, yet a good mile from the epicenter of Korea Town to the north. Small, electric grills are propped up on every table, and on most nights, they’re all hissing and popping with the sounds of grilled bulgogi, octopus or tripe; a few octagonal tables host larger groups. Plants line the dining room wall, which is made cozier by the painted glass that obscures the view out–a hallmark of Korean restaurants. A handful of booths allow for easy conversation. A TV over the entrance to the kitchen is usually tuned to Korean satellite programs.
On the plate
Do-it-yourself grilled beef or octopus, spicy soups loaded with vegetables and tofu, a half-dozen fried rice dishes and some unique buckwheat noodle soups served chilled. Adventuresome diners can opt for cow’s ankle tendon soup or grilled tripe; non-meat-eaters are in luck though, as soups, several entrees and all of the side dishes are fish- or vegetable-based.
Second helpings
Bibim bap could be the Korean Cobb salad: Artfully arranged julienned carrots, spinach, cucumbers and daikon radish arrive in a metal bowl, with a lone sunnyside-up egg in the middle, hovering over shreds of cooked beef. Spicy chili sauce can be added, just before you mix up all of the ingredients. Chap chae, or clear vermicelli noodles tossed with stir-fried vegetables and beef, makes a good entry point for novices. Yeolmu naeng myeon (cold buckwheat noodle soup) is a pleasant soup, despite the tradition of serving it cold. The addition of spicy radish kimchi, daikon, crisp cucumbers and a vinegary broth loaded with Chinese greens and chilies, is a heat lover’s delight, even if white rice is necessary to cool some of the fires. Items cooked tableside (intended for two) all come with side dishes, or panchan, of which we counted at least 10, including cucumbers, cabbage kimchi, potato salad, spinach, seaweed and daikon.
At your service
If you speak Korean, you’ll have a great time. About 95 percent of the patrons on our visits were of Korean descent. Unfortunately, on both visits, servers were unwilling to explain certain items, even when we pointed quizzically to other people’s dishes, and on at least two occasions dishes were whisked out to customers who had arrived after us, while we were still waiting for our drinks.
Take a pass
Haemul pajeon, the classic Korean pancake appetizer, is loaded with green onions and red peppers but is doughy and bland; deok mandu is a bland beef broth soup containing steamed meat dumplings that are better when ordered as an appetizer by themselves. Ojingeo bokkeum is perfect for heat seekers, but the squid (or octopus) can be chewy, and the accompanying mushrooms and onions swim in a too-oily sauce.
Thirst quenchers
Sodas, tea (albeit weak tea) and Hite, a Korean beer.
Extras
Carryout is a good way to avoid the language barrier: Grab a takeout menu, order by number and devour the goods when you get home.
Price range
Appetizers, $4-$9.95; entrees, $6.95-$13.95; fried rice, $5.95-$6.50; tableside entrees (for two), $22.95; soft drinks, $1.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Chicago Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
