Come the 4th of July, everyone is going to be doing it! Cooking on a grill, that is, according to a survey that pegs the percentage of fired-up grill owners at a year-round high of 89 percent on Independence Day.
They’ll be cooking up hamburgers, hot dogs, steak, chicken pieces and ribs–and in that order, according to an annual nationwide poll by Impulse Research. (The poll is funded, it should be noted, by Weber-Stephen Products company, the well-known producer of home grills.)
Although most grill cooks opt for these familiar items, some are experimenting with cuts of beef, pork and lamb less often prepared on the grill and easier on the purse.
Tony Stallone, vice president for perishables at Skokie-based Peapod, says the firm’s home delivery orders this spring contained more London broil (top sirloin tip), boneless beef short ribs, skirt steak and lamb shoulder chops, all of them less tender cuts. Customer surveys indicate that much of this meat is being cooked on a grill, he says.
Also, new grill-friendly beef steaks and roasts are coming to market in the next few months.
Cooks already have many choices in the supermarket meat case that are flavorful, not too tough and cost less than rib or loin steaks. They mostly come from the chuck or round areas. And most can be grilled or roasted on a grill. Grill-roasting is cited as one of the hottest new trends in the Weber poll.
A recent tour of supermarket meat counters reveals quite a selection:
At one Jewel-Osco store, we found boneless chuck steak for $3.29 a pound; top-sirloin at $5.49; beef back ribs, $1.79, and blade pork roast for $3. Compare that to tenderloin at $8 per pound, porterhouse at $7 and lamb rib chops, $10.
At Treasure Island, triangle tip steak was $5 a pound; top round steak, $4; round steak, $2; lamb blade shoulder chop, $4; and boneless lamb leg steak, $4.39. Tenderloin steaks were $12 a pound, porterhouse, $9, and lamb rib chops, $11.
Beef chuck (from the fore shoulder and neck of a steer) has a complex bone and tissue structure but outstanding flavor. Chuck cuts for grilling are blade steak, shoulder steak, arm steak and chuck steak. The chuck eye, often labeled as “beauty steak,” is surprisingly tender.
Beef round and rump are from the backside and thigh of the animal. This meat has firm muscle fibers, pronounced grain and more connective tissue than loin and rib meat. Steak and roast cuts include sirloin tip, top round and bottom round. They contain very little fat.
Veteran cooks know the best way of cooking many of these cuts is with indirect heat, keeping the food away from direct contact with the flames. That prevents flare-ups from dripping fat or sauces and allows thicker cuts such as roasts to cook through without becoming charred.
“For me, cooking with indirect heat is a lot more interesting,” says author and sausage producer Bruce Aidells. Among Aidells’ favorite grilling choices are short ribs cut crosswise in the Hawaiian or Korean manner into 1/4-inch pieces and marinated in soy sauce and Asian seasonings. He also braises lamb riblets to render the fat and tenderize them, then finishes them on the grill.
Beyond red meat
Moving beyond red meat for grilling choices, Bobby Flay, the New York City and Food Network chef, likes grilling turkey by indirect heat.
“It’s an easy way to feed a lot of people,” he says. “It’s not really grilled. It’s roasted in an outdoor oven.”
Other items he cooks by the indirect method are duck breast (“score the fat and cook to medium”) and lobster (“don’t put half lobsters directly on the grill; the meat will shrink and taste rubbery. Steam them whole for 6 to 8 minutes, cool, split them lengthwise and grill 4 or 5 minutes.”)
Whatever the cut of meat or poultry you choose, “thick, sweet sauces or glazes should be brushed over meat only in the final minutes of cooking,” says executive chef Michael Cech of Weber Restaurants. “If they are exposed to direct heat for a longer time, they will char and give the meat a burned taste.”
While it does not qualify as a cut of meat, Cech has developed a most unusual summer comfort food, grilled “homestyle” barbecued meat loaf.
Now, that’s unusual.
Sizzling suggestions
Here are tips regarding grilling from the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association and Steven Raichlen, author of “How to Grill”:
– Clean the grate with a wire brush before and after cooking. Oil the grate lightly before cooking to prevent sticking.
– Be sure you have enough propane or charcoal on hand.
– Allow 30 minutes for coals to develop an ash cover. If cooking a thin, lean piece of food, spread burning coals over the center of the grill before putting the grid in place. If cooking fatty or large pieces, make two piles of hot coals opposite one another and place a drip pan between them; or arrange coals around the inside edge of the grill. This is indirect cooking.
– In direct cooking, test heat by holding your hand 1 inch above the grill. You should be able to count 4 seconds before you have to remove it. As a rough guide, allow 10 minutes per inch of thickness to cook room-temperature steaks to medium-rare. Use an instant-read thermometer (145 degrees for medium-rare) for more accurate information. To prevent loss of precious juices, allow meat to rest 5 minutes or more before cutting into it.
– Before cooking, food may be marinated in seasoned liquid with quite a bit of acid. Some food scientists say that even lengthy marinating will not significantly improve tenderness of meats, but it does add flavor. A rub (a dry seasoning mix) may be spread on the food before cooking. It will add flavor but will not have any tenderizing effect. Thin sauces, or mops, are used to baste large cuts during cooking. Thick sauces containing sugar, molasses or ketchup are added only in the last few minutes lest they burn. Flavored butter may be added after cooking.
– Move food with long tongs, not a fork, which creates holes through which juices can escape. Have a clean platter waiting to receive the food as soon as it is cooked.
– Keep gas hoses away from hot surfaces. If you detect a gas leak, close the tank at once. Never burn charcoal indoors or use a grill under a flammable roof; never store a spare gas container near the grill.
— W.R.
New cuts promise grilling success
As anyone who steps outside early on a summer evening in Chicago can testify, more and more people are cooking on an outdoor grill. A survey commissioned by Weber-Stephen showed a big jump during the past year in grill owners who use their favorite toy at least once a week (to 64 percent from 53 percent).
Because steak and hamburgers rank as the most popular foods for grilling, it is no surprise that demand for beef sales rose 6 percent in the same time frame, according to industry statistics. But back at the “R&D Ranch,” the research and development arm of the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association, there has been less joy at this than one might think.
That’s because retail prices were down 4 percent to 6 percent. Furthermore, the industry reports that roughly 50 percent of the usable meat from a steer is sold as ground beef. No one in the supply chain receives top dollar for ground beef.
What is needed are cuts that will “fill a void,” according to Carl D. Blackwell, executive director of new products, and answer time-starved consumers’ demands for “convenience, single-portion size, leanness and price moderate enough to rival chicken.” Traditional roasts, which require long cooking, were not cutting it, especially in summer. Prized cuts such as sirloin strip and porterhouse are too expensive for frequent family dinners.
So in analyzing 39 muscles from the under-utilized round and chuck sub-primal cuts, the R&D team came up with 14 “beef value cuts.” Some are designed for restaurants, others for supermarket deli displays or rotisseries, still others for home cooks.
Four of the most promising, all suitable for grilling, are undergoing test marketing. They are the “flat iron steak” (top blade steak), “ranch cut steak” (shoulder center steak), “sirloin tip steak” (round sirloin tip center steak) and the “teres major” roast (shoulder tender roast, intended for restaurants, where it is sliced into medallions, like tenderloin).
“These ‘new’ steaks are not really new; they’re simply a new take on the way steaks are cut,” said Betty Hogan, director of new product development for the association. “We expect they will catch on first in food service. Customers will try them, then ask the butcher at their supermarket for them.”
At a recent taste test, a flat iron steak cooked medium-rare was impressively tender and juicy. Its developers expect supermarkets to sell it for $4 to $6 a pound on trays of three 6- to 8-ounce boneless steaks. It can be served whole or sliced for fajitas. The boneless ranch cut was a nicely marbled individual steak, also as tender as more expensive steaks. The “teres major” medallions more than held their own in tenderness. All the meat was USDA Choice grade.
The new cuts are not yet in general distribution in the area, but Jerry and John’s, 3706 W. Dempster St., Skokie, has them. Flat iron steaks are expected to be available from Omaha Steaks retail outlets in the Chicago area or through mail-order in mid-July. Call 800-960-8400 or visit www.omahasteaks.com.
— William Rice
Stuffed beef tri-tip roast
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
– Adapted from a National Cattlemen’s Beef Association recipe.
1 beef tri-tip roast or 1 boneless beef top sirloin steak, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds, cut 1 1/4-inches thick
1/4 cup prepared basil pesto
1/4 cup finely chopped, oil-packed dried tomatoes, drained
8 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon grated romano or Parmesan cheese
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1. Prepare a grill for direct cooking. Cut a deep pocket along one side of the meat (do not cut all the way through). Set aside.
2. Combine pesto, tomatoes, garlic and rosemary in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until garlic has softened, about 4 minutes. Spread the pesto mixture evenly inside the pocket. Insert 3 or 4 toothpicks through the meat vertically to seal the pocket.
3. Place roast on center of the grill. Grill, uncovered, until brown on one side, about 2 minutes. Turn; brown the second side 2 minutes. Cover grill; cook 7 minutes. Turn; cook until instant-read thermometer registers 140 degrees (medium rare) to 155 degrees (medium), 8 minutes. Remove from grill. Tent loosely with foil; let stand 10 minutes.
4. Remove toothpicks. Carve meat crosswise into 1/2-inch-wide slices; sprinkle slices with cheese, salt and pepper to taste.
Nutrition information per serving:
305 calories, 48% calories from fat, 16 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 95 mg cholesterol, 225 mg sodium, 4.2 g carbohydrate, 35 g protein, 1 g fiber
Chimichurri sauce
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Yield: About 2 cups
– This Argentine parsley sauce is great with grilled beef or poultry. It’s adapted from “Miami Spice,” by Steven Raichlen.
1 bunch curly parsley, stemmed, minced, about 2 cups
8 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup olive oil, Spanish preferred
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon each: red pepper flakes, salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Combine the parsley and garlic in a food processor or mortar; process to a coarse paste.
2. Add oil, lemon juice, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper to taste; process to mix. Taste; adjust the seasoning with lemon juice or salt. Serve or refrigerate up to 2 days to let flavors develop.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
60 calories, 95% calories from fat, 7 g fat, 0.9 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 75 mg sodium, 0.6 g carbohydrate, 0.2 g protein, 0.2 g fiber
Mustard-molasses barbecue sauce
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 6 minutes
Cooling time: 45 minutes
Yield: 4 cups
– Use this sauce, adapted from a recipe in “Bobby Flay Cooks American,” on ribs, pork chops or poultry.
1 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
2 cups molasses
1/2 cup Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon chili powder, ancho preferred
Salt, freshly ground pepper
1. Combine vinegar and sugar in a medium, non-reactive saucepan. Cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until sugar dissolves, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat.
2. Whisk in molasses, mustard and chili powder. Season with salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature, about 45 minutes. Refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 months.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
35 calories, 5% calories from fat, 0.2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 55 mg sodium, 9 g carbohydrate, 0.1 g protein, 0 g fiber
Grilled skirt steak with fresh tomato sauce
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Marinating time: 2 hours
Yield: 4 servings
– Adapted from “Steak Lover’s Cookbook,” by William Rice.
1 skirt steak (1-1 1/4 pounds)
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons finely chopped basil
1/2 teaspoon each, plus more to taste: salt, freshly ground pepper
1 cup vegetable oil
1 ripe tomato, seeded, diced
1 small red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded, diced
1/4 cup diced sweet onion
1/4 cup olive oil, extra-virgin preferred
1. Pat the steak dry; place it in a shallow dish or bowl. Combine 1/4 cup of the lemon juice, 2 tablespoons of the basil, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper in a small bowl. Stir in oil. Pour over steak, coating all sides. Cover dish; marinate steak in the refrigerator 2 to 4 hours, turning once.
2. Prepare grill for direct cooking. Combine tomato, bell pepper and onion in a bowl. Add remaining tablespoon basil; season liberally with salt and pepper. Stir in olive oil and remaining tablespoon lemon juice. Taste; adjust seasoning.
3. Remove steak from marinade; pat dry. Grill until seared and nicely browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn; cook 2 minutes. Because of the uneven shape of the steak, it will be cooked from rare to medium-well. Transfer steak to a cutting board to rest 5 minutes. Cut at an angle across the grain into thin slices. Serve with the tomato sauce.
Nutrition information per serving:
405 calories, 67% calories from fat, 30 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 60 mg cholesterol, 150 mg sodium, 10 g carbohydrate, 24 g protein, 1.2 g fiber
Homestyle BBQ meat loaf
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Chilling time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 55 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
– This unusual but delicious grilled meat loaf is adapted from Michael Cech, executive chef, Weber Grill restaurants. It calls for two kinds of bottled barbecue sauce, one for the meat mixture and one for basting.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 Spanish onion, peeled, chopped
2 pounds ground beef, 80 percent lean preferred
1/2 cup dry bread crumbs, such as Japanese panko
1/3 cup commercial barbecue sauce
2 large eggs
3 tablespoons ketchup
1 tablespoon steak sauce
2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 tablespoons hickory smoke barbecue sauce
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Heat oil in a heavy skillet; add onion. Cook over medium heat until onion softens and begins to caramelize, about 10 minutes.
2. Transfer onion to large bowl. Add meat, bread crumbs, 1/3 cup barbecue sauce, eggs, ketchup, steak sauce and salt. Mix ingredients until thoroughly blended. Pack into an 8-by-4-inch loaf pan. Smooth the top; brush with a thin layer of the hickory smoke barbecue sauce.
3. Place loaf in a baking pan to catch any overflow; cook in oven until cooked through or until center reaches 155 degrees on instant-read meat thermometer, about 40 minutes. Remove from oven; let cool. Refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight.
4. Prepare grill. If using charcoal, start the fire in the center of the grill. When coals are covered with ash, separate into 2 equal piles on either side of the grill. If using gas, heat the grill with all burners on medium; then turn off middle burner.
5. Remove loaf from pan; slice crosswise into 6 equal slices. Place slices directly over coals; grill 2-3 minutes. Turn; grill 2 minutes. Move slices to center of grill; brush with hickory-flavored sauce. Grill 2-3 minutes to glaze.
Nutrition information per serving:
375 calories, 56% calories from fat, 23 g fat,
8 g saturated fat, 160 mg cholesterol, 1,200 mg sodium, 13 g carbohydrate, 26 g protein, 1 g fiber
Blue cheese sauce
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Yield: 4 cups
– This rich sauce goes well with a grilled steak, such as a flat-iron steak cooked with a medium spicy rub. It’s adapted from “Bobby Flay Cooks American.”
3 cups milk
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 1/4 cups blue cheese, cut into small pieces
Ground red pepper, salt
1. Heat milk in medium saucepan over medium heat just until warm, 5 minutes. Melt butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk the flour into the butter; cook, stirring, 3 minutes, without letting it brown (reduce heat if necessary). Whisk milk into the flour mixture a little bit at a time; cook until smooth and thickened, 2 minutes.
2. Whisk in the cheese; cook until completely melted. If the mixture seems too thick, add a little more milk. Season with ground red pepper and salt to taste. Keep sauce warm.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
20 calories, 64% calories from fat, 1.4 g fat, 0.9 g saturated fat, 5 mg cholesterol, 20 mg sodium, 0.8 g carbohydrate, 0.9 g protein, 0 g fiber
