(1 fork)
1711 E. Central Rd., Arlington Heights
(847) 228-5870
Hours: 6 a.m.-3 p.m. daily
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Located in a small strip mall, Mr. A’s (as this place is nicknamed) would not attract a soul, except perhaps someone after “the biggest and best breakfast,” as the sign in the window claims. Once inside, the standard coffee shop decor takes over. Green and pink floral upholstery make the booths look like leftovers from the ’70s, but the place seems clean enough. The long counter attracts, only because of the faster service implied there.
On the plate
Breakfast rules, obviously. Morning food takes up half of the menu, including combination plates involving eggs, pancakes and breakfast meats, as well as omelets and breakfast sandwiches. Toast in a choice of six varieties comes on the side. Lou Mitchell’s need not worry about portion competition from Mr. A’s plates, which were not overly large, despite the sign’s claim. Coffee shop fare fills the remainder of the menu: soups, salads, burgers and sandwiches. Only two desserts, apple pie and ice cream, are available.
At your service
Throaty-voiced waitresses stand about joking with each other or taking cigarette breaks at the counter, but can move quickly when business picks up, serving up multiple plates at once with “Here you go, Hon.” Food flies from the kitchen.
Second helpings
The best breakfast choice turns out to be the French toast, with three thick slices of egg-coated bread cooked perfectly until crunchy on the edges and soft in the middle. A rolled-up spinach and feta omelet comes stuffed with plenty of salty cheese and nicely cooked spinach, although the exterior is too brown for our taste. The American fried potatoes that come with many orders are typical, as are the pancakes, bacon, sausage and the canned corned beef hash. “Mr. A’s World Famous Ham Sandwich” is stuffed with thick slices of flavorful ham, roasted on the premises, but it is almost impossible to eat without a knife and fork.
Take a pass
French fries can be overcooked and get soggy quickly. The “homemade” apple pie seems anything but: A soggy, paper-thin top crust covers the cornstarch-thickened filling, with apples that taste canned.
Thirst quenchers
Look for the usual sodas and juices, plus milkshakes in vanilla, chocolate or strawberry. The coffee is fine.
Extras
Breakfast can be ordered until closing, including Mickey Mouse pancakes for the kids. Roasted ham is by the pound ($4.95 per pound) or can be shipped whole ($65).
Price range
Breakfast specials, $4.25-$5.95; omelets, $3.55-$6.15; soups, $1.75-$4.25; sandwiches and hamburgers, $2.35-$6.40; salads, $3.95-$5.95; desserts, $1.75-$1.95.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
