(2 forks)
7650 W. North Ave., Elmwood Park
708-453-7650
Hours: 4 p.m.-2 a.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday; 11a.m.-3 a.m. Sat.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Located on restaurant-dense North Avenue, this little gem is easy to overlook. When you walk into the small, dark 2-year-old eatery with exposed brick walls, a big bar, video games and four TVs, you can get the impression that food is not the main attraction. We opted for outdoor dining in the four-table cafe area on both of our visits, which was pleasant when larger vehicles weren’t whizzing by. If young boisterous people are not your cup of tea, you may want to take your food to go.
On the plate
Typical Chicago Italian fare at reasonable prices: baked clams, calamari, salads, pastas, pizzas, chicken Vesuvio and sausages.
Second helpings
We were so impressed by the fresh, lemony and crispy grilled calamari that we didn’t mind the slight charring on some of those little tentacles. The grilled vegetable salad (portobello mushrooms, zucchini and eggplant), perfectly dressed, offers an inviting blend of warm and cool ingredients. The red onion, tomato and Gorgonzola salad, splashed with a good balsamic vinegar, makes a refreshing summer appetizer. Pasta is cooked and dressed with care; we especially liked the penne in suprema sauce, which blends marinara and alfredo into a creamy, tomatoey dream. The well-balanced aglio olio also proved a winning pasta topper. A side of Italian sausage is crisp, juicy, tangy and full of fennel flavor. Chicken Vesuvio comes out tender and moist but not overpoweringly garlicky. The potato wedges soak up flavor from the broth.
Take a pass
Cheese pizza is crunchy and hot but needs a lot of salt. We required sharp eyes to find the clams in our baked clam special, which was heavy on the spices and bread crumbs. Those who like their gnocchi to be “light as air” will be disappointed. Pesto doesn’t quite pack the basil punch we look for.
At your service
Staffers are fast, friendly, attentive and great about refilling drinks and bringing any requested extras.
Thirst quenchers
The unsweetened iced tea keeps coming and the lemonade is excellent. There is also a full bar with bottled beer, wine and liquor.
Extras
Even though they put butter out with decent bread on the table, you can ask for olive oil if you wish.
Price range
Appetizers, $4.95-$7.95; pizza, $8.95-$13.95; salads, $3.50-$8.95; pasta, $8.95-$12.95; desserts, $4.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
