(1 fork)
6249 N. Milwaukee Ave.
773-763-8018
Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; 4-9 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
On a lonely stretch of North Milwaukee Avenue peppered with fast-food joints and Polish businesses, a hard-to-spot sign hovers over a cramped space. A mere three tables are the only clue this is a restaurant, as customers who’ve phoned in orders ahead of time quickly make their way in and then out again. A lone goldfish tank is the only decor, if you don’t count the color photos of signature dishes.
On the plate
Standard Hunan, Mandarin and Sichuan cuisine, with the usual suspects, among them egg rolls, hot-and-sour soup, sweet-and-sour items and chow mein. Most dishes are available in large or small portions, which makes it easy to sample. Sichuan items are marked by a red chili but are far from spicy.
Second helpings
Although the pot stickers (six to an order) have a somewhat chewy exterior, they come in hand-formed crescents containing chunks of steamed pork. Moo shu pork is barbecued first, then mounded onto a plate with strips of carrot, bok choy and bamboo shoots; perfectly thin pancakes are served with a sweet hoisin for you to make your own wraps. Mongolian beef is sliced thin, laced with strips of green onion in a pleasant, though thick, sauce.
Take a pass
Vegetable fried rice is simply bland.”Phoenix & Pearls,” a dish of stir-fried scallops and chicken, is remarkably flavorless and thickened with way too much cornstarch. Egg rolls contain ground pork and cellophane noodles–a nice touch–but are left in the fryer too long.
Thirst quenchers
Choose canned soda and juice drinks from a giant glass case.
At your service
The small space means you order at the counter and dishes are brought out as soon as they’re ready. The family that runs the business is congenial and clearly happy to see customers.
Extras
Lunch specials (all around $4) are served Monday through Saturday and include one egg roll and fried or steamed rice. Delivery is available, as are party trays for large groups.
Price range
Appetizers and soup, $1.50-$7.95; fried rice, $3.25-$5.50; entrees, $3.95-$11.75; soda, 60 cents; almond and fortune cookies, 60-85 cents.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
