(two forks)
226 W. Kinzie St.
312-222-0300
Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.; 9:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Sat.; 9:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
A patchwork of colorful posters, photos and products greets diners in this narrow restaurant, but they effectively sell the all-Southern theme. We particularly love the huge Lone Star Beer sign and the black-and-white tiled floor. Brown paper covers the booths and tables to keep at bay splatters from ribs or pulled pork sandwiches. In warm weather, several tables and flower boxes brighten the sidewalk.
On the plate
The owners recently revamped and expanded the original Creole and Cajun menu to become a Southern lineup, including classics such as Low Country shrimp and grits or Arkansas cornmeal-fried catfish. Some Creole dishes remain, including a “crawfish” boil, voodoo chicken and jambalaya. Five salads, five sandwiches, 15 generous entrees and five desserts line the lunch and dinner menu. A choice of 12 side dishes make choosing one difficult. Cornbread and biscuits arrive with each order, along with a dish of honey butter. Only a few items, such as ribs and steak, are above our Cheap Eats limit.
At your service
Overly friendly service is casual but efficient. Food arrives quickly. One evening, the hostess’ greeting was as sticky-sweet as Southern iced tea.
Second helpings
Low Country sauteed shrimp and grits won’t win awards for being low-fat, but, oh, that flavor! Six shrimp in a lemon butter sauce surround a mound of yellow, cheesy grits that support a pile of crisp red pepper, celery and mushroom slices. The North Carolina seared brook trout is coated in chopped pecans that lend their sweet nuttiness to the sweetness of the perfectly cooked fish. Bourbon butter sauce adds another sweet note. Entrees come with a side of your choice, such as the slightly bitter “mess o’ greens in pot likker” with chili flakes or the chunky buttermilk mashed potatoes. The “heapin’ helpin’ ” of pulled pork, available as a sandwich or entree, is simmered in an almost-cloying Coca-Cola barbecue sauce. Macaroni and cheese is of the creamy, mild variety. Breakfast sausage patties have a peppery kick, but the chunks of pork could use another pass through the grinder.
Take a pass
The one morning dish we tried, bananas Foster French toast, was a fiasco. The pieces of French bread did not appear to have any egg coating and seemed barely fried. And someone in the kitchen mistakenly sprinkled starchy plantains instead of bananas over the top. It was inedible. The server, when prompted, took a bite of the plantain, grimaced, and removed the cost of the dish from the bill. Key lime pie is ruined with a Christmasy drizzle of red and green syrups and whipped cream from a can.
Thirst quenchers
Coffee looks promising as it arrives in a press, but it doesn’t deliver a dark-roast kick. A small selection of wines and beers is offered, plus the usual sodas and a gingered lemonade.
Prices
Appetizers, $1.95-$8.95; brunch buffet, $14.95; salad and sandwiches, $3.95-$13.95; main courses, $7.95-$15.95; side dishes, $1.95; desserts, $3.95; drinks, $2-$7.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key:
4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best;
2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
