(two forks)
66 E. Randolph St.
312-346-5900
Hours: 6:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Mon. – Fri.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
A snappy storefront operation with colorful concrete flooring, arty tables and light fixtures and cleanly designed packaging and presentation. Upstairs is an additional dining room that gives a good view over Randolph Street.
On the plate
Ready-made sandwiches, salads and wraps are grouped in a pick-and-go refrigerator case. The theory classes menu items as “classic,” “adventure” or “spa” choices, depending on ingredients and spicing, but seasoning overall is restrained. Counter service provides soups and whatever the hot special of the day might be: barbecue pork sandwiches the day we visited. Breakfast is an option; Earl’s offers hot ham and egg sandwiches, for instance, in addition to baked goods and oatmeal.
At your service
Willing and able, if not necessarily eager, at the counter, but the manager was cheerful and helpful. In Earl’s defense, we showed up early in the day, before the staff was ready for the lunch rush.
Second helpings
A simple ham and Swiss, a “classic,” stands out. Chunks–almost scraps, really, as if from the holiday carving board–of smoky, firm, minimally processed ham and an assertive cheese stand up to the pristine tiny greens, radicchio and frisee among them. Grilled vegetable and hummus, from the “spa” section, offers a rich, savory and moist filling. (Both of these use a tasty, medium-weight bread that has whole grains for texture.) Farmhouse turkey is straightforward, offering juicy meat with lots of turkey flavor on a dry, ciabatta-style bread. Again, the greens are in great shape. A chicken Caesar wrap has the required romaine, Parmesan and cracked pepper but could stand a tad more dressing.
Take a pass
Cream of spinach soup is gloppy looking and bland, and the spinach is stringy. The bun surrounding the quite sweet barbecued pork manages to be soggy and tough at once: too much microwaving? The three standard salads–egg, chicken and tuna–also suffer from blandness, but at least they are not swimming in dressing, unlike so many other deli versions.
Thirst quenchers
Grab a bottled tea, juice or water from the case, or pick up a soda. Coffee beverages are made with Intelligentsia beans.
Extras
Multiple boxed lunches (minimum order of 10) and attractive platters of sandwiches or fruit are available for delivery or pickup with advance notice. Minimum delivery order is $30, plus $5 fee.
Price range
Baked goods, $1.45-$1.95; salads, $3.95-$5.95; sandwiches, $3.95-$5.95; sides, 95 cents-$2.50; drinks, 95 cents-$2.50; smoothies and frozen custard, $2.25-$2.95.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
