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Star reviews are based on at least two visits by the Tribune critic.

* = Good

** = Very Good

*** = Excellent

**** = Outstanding

Fork reviews are based on at least one visit by a Tribune staffer.

(1 fork) = Good

(2 forks) = Very Good

(3 forks) = One of the best

(4 forks) = Don’t miss it

Credit card key

A American Express

DC Diners’ Club

DS Discover

M MasterCard

V Visa

NEW = A review added since the last Dining Guide

UPDATE = A restaurant revisited since the last Dining Guide

CLASSIC = A true Chicago institution

African

CITY

Ethiopian Diamond Restaurant and Lounge (3 forks)

6120 N. Broadway

773-338-6100

If you’re in the mood for the tangy, spicy cuisine of Ethiopia, served on a round platter the size of a pizza pan, this is a great place to have around.

Recommended: Zilzil, veggie combo.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8-$12

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Ras Dashen Ethiopian Restaurant (3 forks)

5846 N. Broadway

773-506-9601

Communal Ethiopian dishes are served on a beach ball-size pancake called injera at this large, friendly Edgewater restaurant.

Recommended: Yellow split pea paste; spicy stewed lentils, beef stew, spinach.

Open: Dinner and lunch Wed.-Mon.

Entree prices: $8.50-$15

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; coffee-roasting ceremony most evenings.

American classic

CITY

Atwood Cafe **

Hotel Burnham

1 W. Washington St.

312-368-1900.

An ideal drop-in-anytime spot in the heart of the Loop, featuring an unintimidating menu of ted comfort-food classics. The decor is formal enough to be taken seriously, but humorous enough to be comfortable and inviting, and the 18-foot ceilings and large windows let in lots of natural light.

Recommended: Pot pie, roasted banana white chocolate bread pudding.

Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun.; brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; children’s menu.

NEW

Butterfield 8 *

713 N. Wells St.

312-327-0940

The indefatigable Demetri Alexander has partnered with Jack Binyon and others to create this property, where ultra-slick nightclub decor meets 1940s-style supper-club dining. The result is more harmonious than one might expect, despite some uneven moments.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, beef Wellington, halibut Mansour, triple-chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $11.95-$29.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

437 Rush **

437 N. Rush St.

312-222-0101

The old Riccardo’s, a celeb and media hangout in its day, has been transformed by Phil Stefani into a well-managed steak and seafood restaurant. The handsome, Art Deco-accented decor is augmented with pictures of media celebrities and journalists past and present. Lunch diners can choose from the regular menu downstairs or a light cafe menu in the upstairs room.

Recommended: Homemade pasta specialties, prime rib, chocolate pave.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14.95-$45

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Keefer’s ***

20 W. Kinzie St.

312-467-9525

What differentiates this River North newcomer from the city’s rank-and-file steak-and-seafood restaurants is the cooking of chef John Hogan, who works a few French touches (including a dish or two from his former restaurant, Savarin) into the menu mix.

Recommended: Mussels mariniere, tomato bisque, N.Y. strip steak, pork chop, seafood pot pie, tarte tatin.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $15.95-$29.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

CLASSIC Lawry’s the Prime Rib

100 E. Ontario St.

312-787-5000

A haven for the indecisive, Lawry’s offers a simple menu focused firmly on prime rib, offered in various cuts and sizes and carved tableside from huge rolling carts. The famed Spinning Salad Bowl. The room is sprawling and old-fashioned, as are the upstairs-maid uniforms the waitresses wear, but that’s all part of the show.

Recommended: Prime rib, chocolate bag.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $23-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Petterino’s **

150 N. Dearborn St.

312-422-0150

In look and feel a throwback to dining in the ’40s and ’50s, Petterino’s is done in dark wood and red leather, its walls covered with caricatures of celebrities past and present. The menu is heavy with steaks and chops, but includes some old-fashioned dishes, including excellent potato pancakes. Petterino’s location inside the Goodman Theatre building in the Loop makes it a handy lunch and pre- and post-theater dining destination.

Recommended: Steak Diane, shrimp de jonghe, red snapper soup, tomato bisque, chocolate pudding, cheesecake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12.95-$35.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking at dinner.

NEW

Weber Grill Restaurant *

539 N. State St.

312-467-9696

Just about everything on the menu — including desserts — spends at least some time on a Weber Grill at this concept, which has additional locations in Lombard and Wheeling. The city location includes a display kitchen with a long line of stainless-steel kettles, and some tables allow you to watch the grillmeisters in action. The simple menu is full of backyard-barbecue classics.

Recommended: Spinach-artichoke dip, beefsteak tomato salad, New York strip, Weber Melt burger, apple pie.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$29.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

NEW

West Town Tavern **

1329 W. Chicago Ave.

312-666-6175

Susan and Drew Goss, creators of now-shuttered Zinfandel, opened this chummy American bistro, where the food is straightforward and modestly priced, the wines are global and intriguing and service is attentively professional.

Recommended: Mussels, antipasto plate, pepper-crusted steak, lemon chess pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $13.50-$17.50

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Smoking in bar only

NORTH

NEW

Masck ***

730 Waukegan Rd., Deerfield

847-236-1400

Considering it’s possible to begin a meal with a cheeseburger and end it with doughnuts, this is one sophisticated restaurant. Beyond the signature Floppy Cheeseburger (quartered for a shared appetizer) and the Cafe du Monde-inspired mini-doughnuts with powdered sugar and hot fudge sauce, there are excellent dishes throughout the menu. Masck occupies spacious digs, but there aren’t nearly enough seats for the number of people who want to eat here, so call well ahead.

Recommended: Fire and Ice shrimp, ahi tuna on flatbread, roasted halibut, chile-citrus-glazed snapper.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking; smoking in bar only.

WEST

NEW

Stonecutter’s *

103 Stephen St., Lemont

630-243-7383

The old Strand restaurant in downtown Lemont has been reborn as a friendly pub with a decent beverage list and a steak and seafood menu. Live music on weekends is a plus, as is the bargain lunch buffet.

Recommended: Seafood plate, walnut-crusted tuna, New York strip steak.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $15.95-$32.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted; accepted only for 6 or more Saturdays.

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking

SOUTH

Hobknobs in the Park (3 forks)

8101 W. 123rd St.,

Palos Park, 708-923-1218

A pretty, glittering restaurant that features interesting twists on American standbys. One unusual feature is the supervised children’s play room.

Recommended: Crab cakes, brie en croute, chicken breast Wellington, Lucille parfait.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

American contemporary

CITY

Bin 36 ***

339 N. Dearborn St.

312-755-9463

Under new chef John Caputo, Bin 36 is doing its finest work yet. Your best bet is the five-course chef’s menu, which combines Caputo’s most inventive food with wine director Brian Duncan’s unerring wine selections. A wine-lover’s paradise, Bin 36 offers an ever-changing assortment of carefully selected wines, available by the bottle, glass and half-glass.

Recommended: Surf and turf tartare, wild-mushroom risotto, soy-braised black cod, roasted rabbit, banana-hazelnut financier, poached pear.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$24.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Blackbird ***

619 W. Randolph St.

312-715-0708

At this tres hot spot along the Randolph Street restaurant corridor, Paul Kahan’s contemporary American cuisine relies on pristine produce and simple, prettily presented preparations — though “simple” doesn’t do justice to the depth of Kahan’s food.

Recommended: Ahi tuna tartare, fish soup, venison, buckwheat crepes.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar area only.

Charlie Trotter’s ****

816 W. Armitage Ave.

773-248-6228

A fine-dining masterpiece that enjoys a national reputation, Charlie Trotter’s is one of the city’s treasures. Trotter is as experimental as they come, creating extraordinarily complex dishes whose range of tastes and textures can be mind-boggling even to sophisticated palates. The printed menu lists only degustation dinners, consisting of seven to 12 courses in petit portions, designed to expose patrons to the widest range of tastes. The wine list, though pricey, offers excellent values.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Dinner prices: Vegetable menu, $100; grand menu, $125

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; jacket required; no smoking; valet parking.

NEW

Currents *

Swissotel Chicago

323 E. Wacker Dr.

312-565-0565

A luxuriously appointed dining room with high-end linens and stemware makes a lovely setting for this Mediterranean-influenced restaurant. The menu plays it safely by the numbers — a little smoked salmon here, some lamb chops there — but it’s all well executed.

Recommended: Seared tuna, gnocchi with oxtail, roasted salmon, pepper-crusted pork.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; discounted valet parking; no smoking.

Green Dolphin Street ***

2200 N. Ashland Ave.

773-395-0066

Unquestionably the best place in the city to enjoy fine dining and high-grade entertainment, albeit not simultaneously. The dining room (and, weather permitting, the sheltered riverfront patio) offers globally inspired but classically grounded dishes by chef Rick Gresh; the adjacent lounge is a spacious, sensual environment with live music (no cover for dinner guests).

Recommended: Seared scallops, strawberry-chevre tart.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $17.50-$28.

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Harvest on Huron ***

217 W. Huron St.

312-587-9600

Alan Sternweiler’s superb American food has an impeccable home in this sophisticated and joyful environment, an art-filled space loaded with creature comforts — not the least of which is the well-chosen 400-bottle wine list and a breathtaking selection of cognacs and other spirits.

Recommended: Monkfish stuffed with braised short ribs, wild game, roast duck with escargot sauce.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14-$31

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking; late serving hours.

Kevin ***

9 W. Hubbard St.

312-595-0055

It took Kevin Shikami and his brother, Alan, more than two years to realize their dream of owning a restaurant, but the results have been worth the wait. This is a stunning, cedar-accented space, a beautiful setting for Kevin Shikami’s signature French-Asian cooking and Cindy Schuman’s wonderful desserts.

Recommended: Tuna tartare, sea scallops with foie gras, duck with pomegranate sauce, mustard-glazed pork loin, passion fruit mousse torte.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $23-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking.

NEW

Magnolia Cafe **

124 W. Wilson Ave.

773-728-8785

An upscale jewel in a gentrifying section of Uptown, Magnolia Cafe is a modestly priced, unpretentious haven for straightforward but delicately nuanced food by chef/owner Kasra Medhat. The 50-seat dining room is compact and efficient, and frequently jammed on weekends.

Recommended: Pesto-marinated calamari, scallops with lentils, pork tenderloin, creme brulee.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$22

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: No smoking

mk ***

868 N. Franklin St.

312-482-9179

Stylish decor, sleek server uniforms, Christofle flatware and Riedel stemware — no detail has been overlooked at MK. Michael Kornick’s cooking marries clean flavors to eye-appealing presentations. Mindy Segal’s imaginative desserts provide each meal with a rousing finale.

Recommended: Tuna tartare with celery root remoulade, N.Y. strip steak, chocolate banana bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$34

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Naha ***

500 N. Clark St.

312-321-6242

Carrie Nahabedian employs her considerable culinary skill at her restaurant, whose contemporary American menu abounds with Californian and Mediterranean influences. The wide-open dining room is spare, but warm and comfortable.

Recommended: Barigoule of artichokes, vanilla-scented scallops, mustard-glazed salmon, Moulard duck, chilled mango soup with coconut sorbet.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $20-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

one sixtyblue ***

160 N. Loomis St.

312-850-0303

A bit off the beaten path, but a spectacular restaurant, from the Adam Tihany decor to the work of chef Martial Noguier, who incorporates global ingredients into his French-trained cooking with skill and imagination. Service is particularly impressive.

Recommended: Lobster soup with mussels, delmonico steak, shrimp and asparagus gnocchi, rack of venison, baba cake, hot chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $18.50-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NEW

Park Avenue Cafe **

199 E. Walton Pl.

312-944-4414

A New York import, Park Avenue Cafe’s menu still includes some signatures by founding chef David Burke, but current chef Todd Downs adds Midwestern accents to the mix, along with contemporary renditions of time-tested dishes.

Recommended: Wild-mushroom cavatelli, braised pork shank, veal noisette, Chocolate Cube.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $20-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

The Room **

5900 N. Broadway

773-989-7666

You can dig pretty deeply into your wine collection in preparation for this delightful bring-your-own-bottle restaurant; the food is good enough to complement wines of considerable quality.

Recommended: Crab cake, lobster salad, grilled ostrich, polenta-crusted catfish.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; BYOB.

NEW

Savor *

358 W. Ontario St.

312-944-3586

The western edge of River North is home to this offbeat restaurant. The menu is American with a strong New Orleans accent, but chef Joel Cooper’s best work can be found in dishes with the least French Quarter influence.

Recommended: BLT soup, pistachio-crusted venison, grilled grouper, Key lime pie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16-$18

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Spring ***

2039 W. North Ave.

773-395-7100

Former Trio chef Shawn McClain’s first solo venture is this zen-like Bucktown spot in the old North Avenue Bathhouse. Seafood dominates the menu, and Asian and Indian influences abound in McClain’s subtle, harmonious cooking. Service is very impressive, and the wine list is full of carefully chosen bottles that complement the menu.

Recommended: Tuna nicoise salad, scallops and oxtail, halibut with lobster potatoes, coconut-mochi brulee, panna cotta.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $19-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Tru ****

676 N. St. Clair St.

312-202-0001

Here, the culinary talents of chefs Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand have the forum of their dreams — a beautifully realized space with the stunning good looks of a contemporary art gallery and a smoothly professional staff that makes the dining experience an unintimidating delight. Choose from a three-course prix-fixe menu, or sample one of four degustation dinners, called “collections”; either way, prepare for an onslaught of flavors, textures, aromas and visuals that will approach sensory overload.

Recommended: Caviar staircase, black truffle risotto, mosaic of seafood, dessert selection.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Dinner prices: Prix-fixe menus, $75-$150

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; jacket required; smoke-free dining room.

Twelve 12 ***

1212 N. State Pkwy.

312-951-1212

An ambitious Gold Coast restaurant with stunning food by David Shea. The dining room is contemporary and tasteful; service is excellent. Bargain-hunters should check out the “Streetview” menu, offered in the cafe area only, which features modestly priced, lighter fare.

Recommended: Shrimp, scallops and crab ceviche, sweetbreads, striped sea bass, grilled lamb loin, bittersweet chocolate ganache cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $16-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.

UPDATE

Zealous ***1/2

419 W. Superior St.

312-475-9112

Servers still don natty

Donna Karan suits here, and chef/owner Michael Taus’ food is as inspired (and delicious) as ever. But prices have dipped slightly, and jackets, while always a good idea, are no longer required.

Recommended: Sweetbread club sandwich, prosciutto-wrapped monkfish, maple-soy-glazed black cod.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $15-$25;

5-course prix-fixe menu, $85.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking weekends; smoking in bar only.

NORTH

mk North ***

305 S. Happ Rd., Northfield

847-716-6500

The suburban sibling to the original mk is a comfortable, if noisy, space; the menu is very similar to the parent operation, though chef Jon Novak manages some signatures of his own.

Recommended: Crab cake with Tabasco aioli, roasted quail, rotisserie chicken, apple crostata.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14-$31

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.

Trio ****

1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston

847-733-8746

Fasten your seatbelts when you dine here; the cooking of chef Grant Achatz (formerly of the renowned French Laundry) is practically an assault on the senses. He might start your meal with a complimentary flask of spiced water topped with hazelnut foam, then pair foie gras with bananas, followed by prime sirloin bathed in “root beer” flavors.

Recommended: Black-truffle ravioli, “root beer” sirloin, wild striped bass with chocolate and coffee sauces, Japanese tea cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Fri.

Dinner prices: Small tasting menu, $75; grand menu, $100; tour de force, $175

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible (assisted access to restrooms); valet parking; jacket preferred; no smoking.

WEST

Elaine ***

10 W. Jackson Ave., Naperville

630-548-3100

Assertive, gutsy flavors and a fondness for game meats sum up chef Ted Cizma’s cooking style, which is on full display. This two-story space, done in blues with silver-metallic accents, is low lit enough to qualify as romantic.

Recommended: Lobster-bibb salad, veal cheeks, lamb shank with sweetbreads, strawberry-hibiscus tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $16-$34

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Smoking in bar only

302 West ***

302 W. State St., Geneva

630-232-9302

A west-suburban gem, highlighted by chef/owner Joel Findlay’s brilliant contemporary American cooking, which is complexly flavored yet eminently approachable, even playful. The dining room, set in a former bank building, is stylish, spacious and pleasantly subdued.

Recommended: Grilled prawns, broiled snapper, pork tenderloin, Mounds Bar tart.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $20-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly Other: Wheelchair accessible

Clayton’s (4 forks)

66 W. Lincolnway, Valparaiso, Ind.

219-531-0612

From its understated-chic decor to its knowledgeable staff and its imaginative menu, this out-of-the-way restaurant is a gem.

Recommended: Grilled veal chop, pan-seared Lake Victoria perch, molasses-marinated duck breast.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Entree prices: $14-$24

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

American regional

CITY

UPDATE

Crofton on Wells ***

535 N. Wells St.

312-755-1790

Suzy Crofton has established herself as one of the most consistently interesting chefs in the area. Her seasonal-American restaurant is a model of high standards, consistently applied, and the 64-seat dining room, contemporary but soothing, is one of the most civilized spaces you’ll find.

Recommended: Oyster shooter, foie gras, grilled salmon.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

erwin ***

2925 N. Halsted St.

773-528-7200

The simple menu descriptions don’t do justice to chef Erwin Drechsler’s self-styled “urban heartland” cooking, which spins Midwest ingredients into dishes that excite the palate and nurture the soul.

Recommended: Smoked trout and cilantro pancake, mussels, Door County whitefish, sauteed calf’s liver with mustard shallot sauce, peanut butter mousse cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Meritage ***

2118 N. Damen Ave.

773-235-6434

Faux-metallic walls and low light make the dining room of this Bucktown restaurant a romantic place to dine, though most people prefer the awning-covered outdoor patio, one of the most pleasant outdoor spaces in town (it’s fully enclosed in poor weather for year-round dining). The French-informed, Asian-accented cuisine of chef Dirk Flanigan is a perfect fit.

Recommended: Seared foie gras with warm pear cornbread pudding, roasted sea bass, grilled elk, roasted duck breast, apple caramel Dutch pancake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $18-$28

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.

UPDATE

North Pond ***

2610 N. Cannon Dr.

773-477-5845

North Pond was always a pretty restaurant, but after an expansion that added a second dining room (with French doors overlooking North Pond) and a small bar — both of which echo the Arts and Crafts design of the original space — it’s absolutely beautiful. Bruce Sherman’s cooking is exceptional, and the addition of a daily tasting menu exposes diners to a variety of seasonal creations.

Recommended: Grilled rouget, quail with corn blinis, roasted snapper.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $24-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking; no smoking.

SOUTH

UPDATE

Courtright’s ***

8989 Archer Ave., Willow Springs

708-839-8000

Chef Michael Tsonton and sous chef Thomas Rice, who arrived earlier this year, have this well-established restaurant in high culinary gear. The menu seems conservative at first glance, but globally sourced ingredients and artistic presentation raise every dish above the ordinary. Exceedingly well-trained service and a world-class wine list are big pluses, as are the unfussily elegant surroundings.

Recommended: Grilled quail, oysters with cauliflower puree, roasted rabbit, chocolate pyramid.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $23-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Barbecue

CITY

Bone Daddy (3 forks)

551 N. Ogden Ave.

312-226-6666

Quick and helpful service is the rule at this cavernous barbecue house where live entertainment and movies also are on the menu.

Recommended: Baby back ribs, pulled pork sandwich, BBQ brisket sandwich, pork chops.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.25-$26

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Freddy’s Ribhouse (3 forks)

1555 N. Sheffield Ave.

312-377-7427

26 W. Hubbard St.

312-863-7427

Freddy’s offers a competitive selection of ribs, steaks and chicken in gut-busting portions.

Recommended: Baby back ribs, jumbo beef ribs, coleslaw, ricotta cheesecake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95 to $23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Chuck’s BBQ (3 forks)

5557 W. 79th St., Burbank

708-229-8700

At this Southern-style barbecue joint, the sauce–mild or hot–reigns supreme. Barbecue specialties are top-notch, as are the exceptional hand-cut fries.

Recommended: Ribs, beef brisket sandwich, Taylor Street submarine, daily specials.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.50 -$14.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

British/Irish

CITY

Chief O’Neill’s (4 forks)

3471 N. Elston Ave.

773-583-3066

A convivial Irish bar that’s surprisingly serious about its cuisine, Chief O’Neill’s (named for a former Chicago cop, not a Celtic ruler) offers hearty food, fine imported drafts and live music most evenings.

Recommended: Corned beef and cabbage, shepherd’s pie, chicken pie.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Fri.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $8-$19

Credit cards: DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

WEST

Irish Times Bar and Restaurant (3 forks)

8869 Burlington Ave., Brookfield

708-485-8787

Charming Irish bar where you can imagine everybody really would know your name. Fish and chips, shepherd’s pie and Guinness on tap head the pubby menu.

Recommended: Shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, Irish fry.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95 -$13.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Cajun/Creole

CITY

Heaven on Seven on Rush **

600 N. Michigan Ave.

312-280-7774

A sequel to Jimmy Bannos’ cult-favorite original on Wabash (still going strong), Heaven on Seven on Rush (you enter via the building’s Rush Street doors) offers the same inspired cooking in larger surroundings with longer hours and full liquor service.

Recommended: Gumbo, barbecued shrimp, Mardi Gras etouffee, bread pudding, coconut cake.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$18.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTHWEST

Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen (3 forks)

798 W. Algonquin Rd., Arlington Heights

847-228-9551

921 Pasquinelli Dr., Westmont 630-455-9846

The terrific seafood alone should ensure diners a fine time, but the noisy, nautical-meets-N’Awlins atmosphere takes the experience to a whole different level. Be prepared for long waits.

Recommended: Fried alligator, oysters Pappadeaux; blackened opelousas.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$29.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Maple Tree Inn **

13301 S. Old Western Ave., Blue Island

708-388-3461

The former Beverly neighborhood mainstay has maintained its piquant character in its suburban locale. Cajun-Creole appetizers often upstage the entrees.

Recommended: Hickory buttered barbecue shrimp, gumbo, pecan pie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10-$22

Credit cards: DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 8 or more

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Free parking; carryout available.

Chinese

CITY

Hong Min **

221 W. Cermak Rd.

312-842-5026

This simple Chinatown mainstay is the embodiment of no-frills dining. But if you can do without table linens and stemware (and wine, for that matter, though you can bring your own), you will eat inexpensively and well. Dim sum served daily. (A second Hong Min at 8048 W. 11th St., Palos Hills, has the same menu, more space and a liquor license.)

Recommended: Hot and sour soup, curried chicken puffs.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$22

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more

Other: BYOB; discounted parking available.

Lao Sze Chuan (3 forks)

2172 S. Archer Ave.

312-326-5040

The Szechwan-style cooking in this Chinatown Square Mall storefront is delightfully restrained, using oil and hot peppers sparingly.

Recommended: Steamed sole, twice-cooked pork, Chinese eggplant.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$10.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Phoenix **

2131 S. Archer Ave.

312-328-0848

Uncommonly pretty dining rooms with city views, a daily dim sum service and an intriguing, well-executed menu make this arguably the best restaurant in Chinatown.

Recommended: Drunken crab, Buddha’s Delight, Peking duck, pork shu mai.

Open: Dinner and dim sum Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; discounted parking.

WEST

Uncle Lou (3 forks)

246 N. Cass Ave., Westmont

630-515-8889

At Uncle Lou you’ll find a lot of typical Chinese-American dishes, but you’ll also discover several steamed fish options, three kinds of Chinese greens and four different preparations of tofu. And there’s also a sushi bar.

Recommended: Rainbow roll, oxtail and spinach, twice-cooked pork.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Cuban

WEST

Cafe Cubano (3 forks)

7426 W. North Ave., Elmwood Park

708-456-6100

This quaint and colorful storefront is a suburban offshoot of the Cafe Bolero on Western Avenue. It serves a sizzling array of authentic Cuban favorites, and entrees come with ample side dishes: tender white rice, black beans and deep-fried sweet plantains.

Recommended: Stuffed yuca, ropa vieja, chicken stew, flan de leche.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.50-$22.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Copa Cubana (4 forks)

224 S. Main St., Naperville

630-983-2672

A converted laundromat has become a stylish storefront where chef Michael Munoz creates captivating Cuban cuisine. His dishes are traditional, distinguished more by textures and intense aromas than by heat; spice is a subtle layer rather than a dominant force.

Recommended: Shrimp ceviche, lobster paella, empanadas de langosta, ropa vieja, pork chops, cheese coconut flan.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10.25-$21.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Eclectic

WEST

Kafe Kokopelli *

30 E. 1st St., Hinsdale

630-325-1996

A cute, 40-seat cafe attached to an even cuter retail shop, Kokopelli is a good place to know about if you’re shopping in downtown Hinsdale. The name and decor are Southwestern, but chef Robert Kearley’s food includes French and Italian accents as well.

Recommended: Crab cakes, spinach salad, chicken rigatoni, pork chausseur.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $12.95-$27.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

NORTHWEST

Eclectic ***

117 North Ave., Barrington,

847-277-7300

Chef Patrick Cassata gives full rein to his culinary whims at this delightful little cafe, gleefully mixing Greek and Thai idioms and giving every dish on his menu a dash of personality–and, often, chile pepper–though even the wildest-sounding dishes demonstrate careful moderation.

Recommended: Tuna and arugula spring roll, stuffed chicken breast, habanero ravioli, tres leches cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $17-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking

Filipino

WEST

Cebu (4 forks)

7329 Lemont Rd., Downers Grove

630-663-8803

At the elegantly appointed Cebu, you won’t encounter the heavy food found at some Philippine spots. Instead you’ll be treated to light, complex Asian cuisine with a definite nouvelle touch.

Recommended: Pancit guifado, mini egg rolls, vegetable lumpia, paella, Cebu rice.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95- $10.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Fondue

CITY

CLASSIC Geja’s Cafe

340 W. Armitage Ave.

773-281-9101

Consistently recognized as the most romantic restaurant in Chicago in reader polls, this wildly popular fondue restaurant is dark and moody and features guitar music nightly. That, and the forced intimacy of shared cooking in hot oil, apparently does the trick. It’s possible to order a la carte entrees, but the premier dinners–which include cheese fondue, salad and chocolate fondue–are the way to go.

Recommended: Beef, scallop and lobster dinners–or combinations.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Dinner prices: $20-$37

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted Sun.-Thu.; accepted only until 6 p.m. Fri. and 5 p.m. Sat.

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

French

CITY

Ambria ****

2300 N. Lincoln Park West

773-472-5959

From its matter-of-factly efficient staff to its modest-to-a-fault menu, Ambria has established and maintained the definition of fine-dining in Chicago. The five-course petite degustation ($75) is generally a good bet. Matching wines to tasting menus can be daunting, but sommelier Bob Bansberg is a treasure.

Recommended: Medallions of venison with blackberry sauce, lamb loin with rosemary infusion, chocolate euphoria.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $32-$36

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; jacket required; no denim permitted; no smoking in dining room.

Aubriot ***

1962 N. Halsted St.

773-281-4211

Eric Aubriot has made a name for himself with this fine Halsted Street restaurant. His French cooking is light but packed with flavor, and he doesn’t mind challenging diners with bold combinations. Unfussily appointed linen-topped tables and exceedingly attentive service — overseen by Stephanie Aubriot, Eric’s wife — contribute to a formal and friendly atmosphere.

Recommended: Foie gras with chocolate sauce, rabbit loin, daily souffles.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Cyrano’s Bistrot & Wine Bar **

546 N. Wells St.

312-467-0546

The estimable Didier Durand is the chef and owner of this romantic bistro, ably assisted by his wife, Jamie, who runs the front room and manages an off-the-beaten-path wine list that includes, fittingly, wines from Bergerac.

Recommended: Foie gras, lobster bisque, sweetbreads, apple tart.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10.95-$22.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

The Dining Room ****

Ritz-Carlton Hotel

160 E. Pearson St.

312-266-1000

Everything about this opulent room seems to announce “you expect the best, and we are prepared,” and the restaurant indeed delivers, from Sarah Stegner’s outstanding French and American cooking to exemplary service. No other restaurant in Chicago offers so elaborate a cheese presentation. The wine list is heavy with big names and big vintages, and goes deeper than most budgets dare follow.

Recommended: Foie gras with balsamic syrup, rack of lamb, cheese course, Grand Marnier souffle.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $32-$39

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Everest ****

440 S. LaSalle St.

312-663-8920

More so than any restaurant in Chicago, Everest strives to dazzle you before the meal begins. Yet all of this is just so much backdrop to the grand creations of master chef Jean Joho. Servers keep things approachable and unintimidating. A superlative wine list matches the superlative dining experience.

Recommended: Sea bass in a pumpernickel crust, fantasy of chocolate.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $29-$44

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Free valet parking; pre-theater dinner ($44 for three courses).

La Petite Folie **

1504 E. 55th St.

773-493-1394

An unpretentious but refined Hyde Park restaurant, La Petite Folie excels at unfussily presented French food that lets the simple, pure flavors shine through. The pristine dining room, with white walls and thick floral-pattern carpeting, is a lovely and quiet setting; youthful servers are poised and surprisingly polished.

Recommended: Napoleon of smoked trout, lamb roulade stuffed with berbs, caramelized pear.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $15-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking in dining room.

Les Nomades ***

222 E. Ontario St.

312-649-9010

From its jacket-and-tie dress code to its intolerance of loud conversation, Les Nomades has the sensibility of a private-club– which this elegant, two-story restaurant once was. The refined atmosphere is mirrored by the cuisine, characterized by harmonious flavors and uncommon ingredients.

Recommended: Foie gras duo, lobster ravioli, flourless chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $24-$27; 4-course prix fixe dinner, $80.

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended for dinner

Noise: Hushed

Other: Valet parking; jacket required; no smoking.

NoMI ***

800 N. Michigan Ave.

312-239-4030

A glittering showpiece in the Park Hyatt Hotel, NoMI offers dazzling views wherever one looks, including the lavishly appointed dining room, the display kitchen complete with sushi station, and the inspiring seventh-floor views of the city. Sandro Gamba’s menu features straightforward, approachable cooking and delicate portions.

Recommended: Risotto, chocolate fondant cake.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $26-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking in dining room.

NORTH

Carlos’ ****

429 Temple Ave., Highland Park

847-432-0770

Somehow, Carlos and Debbie Nieto keep finding top-notch talent to run the kitchen of their North Shore gem. Chef de cuisine is Ramiro Velasquez, whose classic, perfectly balanced cooking is enhanced by camera-ready presentations. The front room staff, led by Carlos himself, is relaxed in its approach, yet unfailingly attentive. This is dining at its unintimidating best.

Recommended: Venison, red snapper, chocolate mousse pyramid.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Mon.

Entree prices: $32-$38.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; jacket required.

Jacky’s Bistro ***

2545 Prairie Ave., Evanston

847-733-0899

The Jacky in the name refers to Jacky Pluton, former chef at four-star Carlos’. He offers two menus at his cozy Evanston cafe–a “classic” list of traditional dishes and a “market” list of seasonal, more contemporary choices. There also are chef’s-choice degustation meals, which let Pluton flex his culinary muscles a bit.

Recommended: Escargots, steak frites, chocolate palette, chocolate eclair.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $13.75-$22.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

WEST

Bistro Banlieue ***

44 Yorktown Convenience

Center, Lombard

630-629-6560

This west suburban charmer is looking very spiffy after an extensive makeover and expansion in 1999. Decor is softly lit, the muted yellow walls giving the dining room a golden glow. The classic bistro menu is well-executed, and customer-friendly touches, such as petite-portion entrees for smaller appetites, abound.

Recommended: Roast duck, steak Banlieue, chocolate mousse.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12-$28.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Bistro Marbuzet **

7600 W. Madison Ave., Forest Park

708-366-9090

Jack Jones’ latest restaurant (he also owns Atlantique and Jack’s on Halsted) is a handsome and affordable bistro that takes its name from a Bordeaux chateau. There’s a wine bar, a Nancy Warren-designed dining room filled with geometric shapes and an artistically rendered menu by chef Griffith Finch.

Recommended: Four-cheese pizza, grilled-pear salad, steak frites, sundae Marbuzet.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. , brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$18.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.

Cafe 36 ***

22 Calendar Court, La Grange

708-354-5722

The name refers to the restaurant’s location, abandoned a while ago, but Reinhard Barthel’s classic French-Continental cuisine is impressive whatever the address. There are always three or more game dishes on the menu, varying with the season.

Recommended: Shrimp, lobster, scallop mousse, creme brulee.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $11.95-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NEW

Chez Francois **

14 S. Third St., Geneva

630-262-1000

The former Spanish tapas restaurant Granada underwent a smooth transition to a French format by chef/ owner Francois Sanchez, who was born in Spain but grew up in southern France. The regular menu comprises modestly priced, traditional bistro dishes; the daily specials card offers more ambition.

Recommended: Charcuterie plate, seafood-vegetable terrine, sauteed skate, duck breast, orange crepes.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14.95-$20.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.

NORTHWEST

Le Francais ****

269 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling

847-541-7470

Founding chef Jean Banchet sold his Wheeling treasure last year to partners Phil Mott and chef Don Yamauchi, who are proving to be worthy caretakers. Yamauchi, previously head chef at Carlos’ and Gordon, cooks with confidence and consummate skill, and Mott is an affable front-room presence. At night, customers choose among four-, eight- and 10-course degustation dinners; lunch consists of a “French tapas” menu of appetizer-sized dishes priced from $8-$10. Polished, professional service rounds out a uniformly excellent dining experience.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Dinner prices: Prix-fixe menus, $60, $100, $120

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; jacket preferred; no smoking.

UPDATE

Le Titi de Paris ***1/2

1015 W. Dundee Rd., Arlington Heights

847-506-0222

Thirty years after opening in Palatine, Le Titi is absolutely at the top of its game. Chef/owner Pierre Pollin, abetted by chef de cuisine (and heir apparent) Michael Maddox, produces breathtaking dishes that range from the most delicate, artful compositions to hearty creations that qualify as comfort food. With sommelier and maitre d’ Marcel Flori imparting a refined yet relaxed personality to the dining room, a high-quality evening is assured.

Recommended: Sweetbreads, lobster tian, red snapper with lobster consomme, lamb shank, chocolate Ambrosia.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Thu.-Fri.

Entree prices: $26-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Burgundy Bistro (4 forks)

3462 Vollmer Rd., Olympia Fields

708-747-5399

This cozy gem has been discovered, to the dismay of regulars who wanted to hog this uncompromisingly fresh neighborhood bistro for themselves.

Recommended: Grilled portobello, blackened ribeye, lobster pasta, bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $9.95-$22.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Tallgrass *** 1/2

1006 S. State St., Lockport

815-838-5566

Far from the bustle of Chicago sits this uncommonly good restaurant, whose charms draw customers from 60 miles and more. The restaurant sits in a small house decorated in Victorian splendor; the cuisine by chef/owner Robert Burcenski is equally impressive, though more contemporary in presentation.

Recommended: Shrimp in three styles, lobster basket, pancetta-crusted pike, duck and goose breast, chocolate-raspberry tower.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Dinner prices: Prix-fixe menus, $45-$75

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible

German

CITY

CLASSIC

The Berghoff

17 W. Adams St.

312-427-3170

A must-visit stop on any first-time visitor’s list. The Berghoff, more than a century old, is so awash in Chicago history it’s easy to relegate the restaurant to the past. But the restaurant, which continues to offer solid, no-nonsense German standards and American dishes, is holding its own at a time when many of Chicago’s German restaurants are closing.

Recommended: Wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten, sausage combination, sirloin steak salad, Black Forest cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $8.95-$17.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; reduced parking rates after 4 p.m. at Mid-Continental Plaza.

Greek

CITY

Costa’s **

340 S. Halsted St.

312-263-9700

1 S. 130 Summitt Ave., Oakbrook Terrace

630-620-1100

Very good cooking and extremely friendly service characterize these city and suburban Greek spots, whose spacious dining rooms are done in terra-cotta and white tones with oak trim.

Recommended: Stuffed calamari, shrimp piperates, taramosalata, whole sea bass, Athenian chicken, ek-mek katafi.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.

Papagus ***

Embassy Suites Chicago

620 N. State St.

312-642-8450

The menu at this River North hot spot relies heavily on mezedes, small appetizer plates similar to Spanish tapas and equally suited to grazing. The food is fresh, imaginative and carefully crafted. Service is very informative and efficient. A second Papagus, in Oakbrook Center in Oak Brook, is nearly identical.

Recommended: Tirosalata (feta-cheese spread), grilled octopus, spanakopita, broiled lamb chops, baklava, lemon-yogurt cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking after 5 p.m; outdoor cafe.

Hawaiian

CITY

Roy’s **

720 N. State St.

312-787-7599

Roy Yamaguchi has turned his Hawaiian-fusion cooking style into a culinary empire; his Roy’s in Chicago, the 31st of a growing chain, offers many of Yamaguchi’s signatures, plus daily specials from chef/partner Tom Hope. Asian-accented Pacific seafood is the menu’s main thrust, but there’s a surprising number of meat dishes. The handsome dining room is warm and gently lit and blessedly bereft of tiki kitsch.

Recommended: Blackened ahi, dynamite oysters, miso butterfish, jade-pesto snapper, chocolate souffle.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Hungarian

CITY

NEW

Paprikash Hungarian Restaurant

(3 forks)

5210 W. Diversey Ave.

773-736-4949

Hearty, delicious Hungarian dishes feature meats often flavored with paprika and sour cream that are served in a pleasant Old World atmosphere. One unusual twist: The kitchen is up front near the windows, not in back. The kitchen stays open late.

Recommended: Cream of mushroom soup, garlic puffed bread, gulyas, paprikash.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95-$15.50

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Indian

CITY

Jaipur Palace **

22 E. Hubbard St.

312-595-0911

Exotically seasoned food and elegant surroundings go hand in hand at this handsome Indian restaurant, whose decor includes warm walls with arched openings, backlit ceiling panels in bright colors and starched white tablecloths. The food is pretty as well; even the murkier vegetable dishes arrive in elegant vessels. The daily lunch buffet, $8.95, is a bargain.

Recommended: Chooza pakora, dal makhani, seafood combination platter, lamb mughlai biryani, chicken vindaloo.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $9-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTH

Mt. Everest Restaurant (3 forks)

618 Church St., Evanston 847-491-1069

A diner can’t come much closer to traditional Indian cuisine than Mt. Everest Restaurant. From the Himalayan paintings to the diverse menu, this restaurant is full of color and flavor.

Recommended: Chicken takka masala, momo chicken, chicken curry, khasi ko maasu.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.95- $17.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible

WEST

Khyber Pass (4 forks)

1031 Lake St., Oak Park

708-445-9032

Mohammad Jawid’s restaurant offers a sensational culinary passage to a rich and varied Indian cuisine.

Recommended: Samosa, onion kulcha, Khyber naan, tandoori chicken, chicken mukhni, bengan bhurta, vegetable biryani, rice pudding.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.50-$17

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTHWEST

Indian Garden (3 forks)

855 E. Schaumburg Rd., Schaumburg

847-524-3007

Rich aromas of cumin, curry, cinnamon and sizzling onions waft from this restaurant, which also has Chicago and Westmont locations.

Recommended: Appetizer assortment of vegetable fritters, meats, samosa dumplings; mulligatawny soup; chicken tikka masala; gulab jamun.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.95-$14.95; $7.95 for lunch buffet.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout.

SOUTH

Tandoor (3 forks)

1535 U.S. Hwy. 41, Schererville, Ind.

219-865-9511

Sophisticated Indian food in unpretentious surroundings awaits those who venture to this shopping-center locale. Low prices will appeal to bargain hunters.

Recommended: Smoked eggplant puree.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $1.95-$13.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Italian

CITY

Beccod’oro ***

160 E. Huron St.

312-787-1300

Sophisticated, charming and inviting, Beccod’oro has the appeal of a neighborhood restaurant, provided you can afford a somewhat pricey neighborhood. Gaetano DiBenedetto cooks with assurance and skill and has an eye for presentation that he indulges judiciously. The 120-seat dining room is pretty and low-lit enough to be romantic, but can be noisy when full.

Recommended: Seafood salad, pan-seared tuna, panna cotta, parfait.

Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $13-$22

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Coco Pazzo ***

300 W. Hubbard St.

312-836-0900

At one of the best Italian dining rooms in the city, the kitchen serves up brilliantly executed examples of hearty Tuscan cooking, characterized by big and bold flavors. The converted-loft dining space is similarly large and rough-hewn, though civilized touches — arty earth-and-sky centerpieces, white tablecloths, heavy velvet curtains — give the room a sophisticated air.

Recommended: Frito misto, duck-confit risotto, cheese and truffle-oil pizza, pancetta-wrapped pork, cicciolata fondante.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $15-$35

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking