It is coming. The signs are all around. The kids are back in school, the evenings are getting chilly and retailers are putting up their Christmas displays.
Fall traditionally has been the time to change antifreeze–coolant, if you will. After all, if you are going to play with water, it is better to do so before it is cold enough to see your breath.
Your automotive technician has equipment that can clean and flush your car’s cooling system, then install fresh antifreeze, in short order. It will do a much better job than you can do at home.
If you are a dyed-in-the-wool do-it-yourselfer, we still suggest you have your system professionally serviced at least every other time.
If your car has the standard, green coolant, it should be changed every two years, but if it contains the orange, long-life coolant, every five years is adequate.
But, before you start, a few words of caution. The cooling system is under pressure–particularly when hot. Opening the radiator cap on a hot system will create a scalding geyser of coolant. You can be severely burned. Open the cap only when the system is cool.
It is important to get as much old coolant out of your car as possible. Opening the petcock on the bottom of the radiator will not drain all the coolant, and most engines have a engine block drain for this purpose. But many block drains are hidden behind things such as motor mounts and are hard to reach. And, even if you canfind yours, it is probably rusted in place. There is an alternative.
Drain as much as you can from the radiator, then fill the system with clear water. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. When the thermostat opens, the top radiator hose will be warm. Turn off the engine and drain the system again. You can leave the radiator cap off during this step.
Repeat this fill-and-drain cycle until it comes out of the drain clear. runs clear.
If you manage to completely drain your cooling system in the last step, install a mix of fresh antifreeze and equal amounts of distilled water. A 50/50 mix will protect your car from freezing to more than minus 30 degrees. Incidentally, premixed coolant is available, and it is handy for topping off your cooling system as necessary. You can also use premixed coolant for your final fill. Be careful not to dilute the premixed stuff if that’s the route you choose.
You may want to use distilled water for the final flush. Why? As we said above, you probably won’t get all the water out of the system. Some will remain in hoses, the heater core, the engine and so on.
With water remaining, you need only pour in the proper amount of straight antifreeze to achieve the desired dilution.
How much do you need? Check your owner’s manual for the cooling-system capacity. If, for example, your system holds 10quarts, you will need to add five quarts of antifreeze. The trouble is, you probably don’t know how much water is in the system.
One method is to measure the amount of water in your catch pan after your final draining. If you measure five quarts, you can pour four quarts of antifreeze into the car then top it off with a final quart of antifreeze.
But what if the antifreeze doesn’t fit? The radiator may be nearly full, but air in the cooling system creates a blockage. Usually, if you start the engine, the air will purge when the engine warms up and the thermostat opens. When that happens, the level in the radiator drops and you can pour in the antifreeze. On some vehicles, however, the only way to get all the air out is by opening a bleeder valve or other special technique. Consult a service manual if in doubt.
A simple solution is to pour three, not four, quarts of antifreeze into the car then mix the remaining quart of antifreeze with a quart of water. When the system warms up, and the level drops in the radiator, top it off with your mixture. Pour any leftover in the overflow reservoir connected to the radiator.
For peace of mind, we like to add a dose of cooling-system leak preventer and water-pump lubricant in the final fill. This won’t change the concentration of the coolant, but may protect the coolant system from potential problems.
After you have finished, run the engine and check for leaks. Clean up any spills as they can be hazardous to pets and children. And remember to dispose of the used coolant properly. Check your local laws or better yet take it to a recycling center.
After a week or so, check your coolant protection with a hydrometer or test strips.
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Care checklist
It’s time to put your car back in winter driving shape. Here is a checklist to keep you on the road:
UNDER THE HOOD
The engine
Before you begin cleaning, cover distributor and air intake (carburetor or throttle body) with plastic. It is a good idea to cover the alternator, as well. With the engine warm, but not hot, spray on an engine cleaner and allow it to work while you’re cleaning the interior.
Air filter
Replace according to owner’s manual, more frequently in dusty conditions or when dirty. A dirty filter will lower gas mileage and hurt performance. Hold it up to a light to see how dirty it is.
Power steering
Groaning noises or a rough feeling when you turn the wheel mean the system needs attention.
Belts
Make sure drive belts are adjusted for a snug fit and not cracked, glazed or frayed. They should not deflect more than a half-inch when pushed with your finger.
Spark plugs
If your car is approaching time for a tune-up, replace the spark plugs before the weather turns cold for improved starting.
PCV valve
A pollution-control device located in the valve cover. Remove hose from top and take out of valve cover. Replace it at least as often as you replace the spark plugs.
Hoses
Check for leaks, bulges or cracks and make sure clamps are secure. This includes air intake hoses or ducts.
Battery
The terminals should be cleaned with a solution of baking soda and water.
Make sure all connections are secure.
Check for cracks or leaks.
Cooling system
Check the protection using a hydrometer or test strips. Change as required. If low, add a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water to protect to 35M-0 below zero.
If your cooling system has been neglected, you may want to thoroughly clean it before installing fresh antifreeze. There are several brands of cooling system flushes or cleansers. Follow the directions carefully.
Oil and filter
Oil and filter should be replaced. A winter-weight oil with the right rating such as API’s SL rating or ILSAC’s GF-3 rating are fine for engines that require SG, SH or SJ.
Windshield washer
Keep your windshield washer reservoir full using the premixed blue stuff or mix your own from concentrate.
THE EXTERIOR
Windshield wiper blades
Replace regular wipers with winter blades, which keep ice and snow from building up and remain in contact with the glass.
Windows
Apply water repellent to windshield and all windows to keep them free of slush, salt and muck. This also makes ice easier to remove.
Doors, hatches and trunks
Apply silicone to all door, hatch and trunk-lid gaskets to preserve the rubber and prevent them from freezing shut.
Tires and brakes
Install snow tires if you use them and rotate the tires. Inspect the brake pads (disc) or shoes while tires are off. If they are scarred or worn, replace them. Check the air pressure on all tires, including the spare. In winter, tires lose 1 pound of pressure for each 10-degree drop in temperature. Look for worn or uneven tread wear.
Paint
Use professional touchup paint to seal any scratches or dings. After washing the car, give it a solid shine by waxing and polishing. Choose a shady location for easier cleanup.
Locks and hinges
A graphite-based lubricant is recommended for locks, oil for hinges. Squirt on door, hood, trunk hinges and hood latch/release mechanism.
Lights and lightbulbs
Turn the lights on and walk around the vehicle to check for burned-out bulbs.
Have a friend sit inside and operate the brakes, turn signals and flashers.
Don’t forget to check the high beams. Make sure your headlights are aimed properly. Owner’s manuals list replacement bulbs.
THE INTERIOR
Windows
Clean with auto glass cleaner or vinegar and water to cut through the dirt; it may take a few times to end streaking. Check your defroster and rear window defogger.
Floor mats
Clean thoroughly. For winter, use carpet remnants, which can be placed under a tire for added traction.
Upholstery
Clean the seats top to bottom and apply protectant to all leather, vinyl and fabric.
Light bulbs and fuses
Check all dash lights and gauges when you turn key on. If all lights don’t glow, replace necessary bulbs.
The trunk
Check spare tire for leaks. Make sure the jack is in good shape and all parts are accounted for. Lubricate with a lightweight oil. Assemble a winter survival kit and store it in the trunk.
It should include: Flares, a blanket, bottled water, snacks, an ice scraper, lock de-icer, window de-icer, gas-line de-icer, flashlight, gloves, jumper cables and cellphone.
Jumping a dead battery
1. Turn off the ignition. Check cells to be sure battery is not frozen.
2. Attach the ends of one cable to the positive posts of both batteries.
3. Attach one end of the second cable to the negative post of the charged battery. Ground the other end on a clean unpainted part of the disabled car.
4. Turn off all accessories on both cars and with the assisting car running, start the dead car’s engine.
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Bob Weber is an ASE-certified Master Automobile Technician, having recertified every five years since 1978. Contact him at MMTribune@netscape.net.
