(3 forks)
2411 N. Clark St.
773-529-1705
Hours: Noon-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; noon-11 p.m. Fri. -Sat.
Credit cards: A, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
An open, minimally decorated dining room is warmed by red-orange painted walls and gentle lighting. The window view onto busy Clark Street is ever-changing, and the tables are comfortably spaced, making this a relaxing place in which to enjoy dinner.
On the plate
The restaurant, named for a Middle Eastern poet, features specialties of the eastern Mediterranean, such as Turkey, Lebanon and Syria. It’s easy enough to make a whole meal out of hot and cold appetizers, or one of the well-stuffed sandwiches. Generous portions are standard. Only a couple of dishes are above our Cheap Eats limit.
At your service
Very friendly servers and hosts add enjoyment to the dining experience here. Beverage refills of soda and tea were frequent.
Second helpings
The restaurant serves a fine baba ghanouj, the roasted eggplant dip, and shows a sure hand with other appetizers as well. Kibbeh, deep-fried cracked wheat bundles stuffed with seasoned ground beef and pine nuts, make a filling and beautifully savory start to the meal. Another good choice are the spinach borek, rolls of phyllo dough stuffed with spinach and feta cheese, then deep-fried. An appetizer that really works well as a main dish, listed merely as spinaq on the menu, is a plate of sauteed spinach with moist chopped apricots, shallots, pine nuts and yogurt. For a main course, try lamb, either in a sandwich of grilled lamb in pita with tomatoes and onions, or the lamb kebab, marinated, skewered and grilled until it achieves nicely charred edges. It is served with a mound of pilaf.
Take a pass
The Sheik Mah’shi, a house specialty of roasted eggplant stuffed with ground beef, came smothered in a thick tomato sauce so heavy it was hard to tell what was underneath.
Thirst quenchers
Sodas, tea and coffee selections are supplemented with apricot, mango and tamarind juices, as well as a yogurt drink, shanina. A small wine list includes bottles and by-the-glass offerings from Europe, California, Australia and Chile. Beers also are available.
Extras
The restaurant offers limited delivery service through Dining In. Call 773-755-1777 or order online at www.diningin.com.
Price range
Appetizers and salads, $4.75-$6.50; sandwiches, $4.95-$5.95; entrees, $11.95-$15.95; desserts, $4.25-$4.95; drinks, $1.50-$6.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
