Cheese continues to gain in popularity in the U.S., with Cheddar and American cheese topping sales figures. The more complex Cheddar seemed a likely candidate for a Good Eating tasting.
The name comes from the English town of Cheddar, where, several centuries ago, the process known as -cheddaring was developed: Curds are piled in a vat, cut into pieces and stacked before pressing. The cheese is left to drain and mat together. So much of the liquid whey is expelled that the cheeses emerge dry and firm. According to Paula Lambert in “The Cheese Lover’s Cookbook and Guide,” Cheddars “have a clean, mellow taste when young, becoming sharp and tangy with age.”
The most revered Cheddars still come from England and carry names such as Cheshire and single- or double-Gloucester. Wales produces Caerphilly, while France offers Cantal and Mimolette. Two well-known U.S. cheeses were included in our tasting: Colby from Wisconsin and Oregon’s Tillamook.
Traditional Cheddars are made from unpasteurized milk and wrapped in cloth to age. One objection to factory-made Cheddars is that they are wrapped in plastic and therefore cannot “breathe” as they ripen. Some Cheddars are colored orange.
We left Cheddars labeled “sharp” out of this tasting; all those tasted were purchased in supermarkets.
The cheeses were scored on a scale of 1 to 9, with 9 being highest. Prices are what we paid at a supermarket and may reflect sales prices or frequent-shopper discounts. Here are the results, with tasters’ comments. To clarify availability, we have listed the stores where we purchased some of the cheeses.
— William Rice.
And the winners are…
1. (tie) Hoffman’s Vermont White Cheddar (6.5 points. 8 ounces, $3.99; 50 cents per ounce, purchased at Treasure Island). “White to pale yellow color.” “Firm, buttery texture.” “Delicate, sweet taste with pleasant tang at end.” “Slightly salty.”
Irish Cheddar (6.5 points. 8 ounces, $3.42; 43 cents per ounce, Treasure Island). “Golden beige color, delicate aroma.” “Firm with a creamy texture.” “Mild flavor with hints of sharpness.”
2. (tie) French Mimolette Cheddar (5.3 points. 11.68 ounces, $6.20; 53 cents per ounce, Treasure Island). “Bright pumpkin color.” “Aggressive, ‘funky’ aroma.” “Soft but not rubbery.” “Medium to mild sharpness.”
Land O’Lakes Colby (5.3 points. 8 ounces, $2.65; 33 cents per ounce). “Faint aroma, smooth texture, very mild.” “Firm and creamy with a slight tangy taste.” “Slightly sweet.”
Others tasted:
3. White Herkimer Cheddar (5.2 points, purchased at Jewel).
4. Dominick’s mild Cheddar (5).
5. Wisconsin mild Cheddar (4.9, Treasure Island).
6. Tillamook medium Cheddar (3.6, Jewel).
