(2 forks)
1574 W. Irving Park Rd., Hanover Park
630-540-7777
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs. and Sun., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
On the fringe of a mall near the intersection of Irving Park and Barrington Roads, Lasania presents an unimposing facade. Inside, it’s obvious that wherever money was spent on creating Lasania nine months ago, very little of it went into decor. But give this Pakistani-Indian restaurant a chance to show what it can do. If the lights are too bright, at least they show that the two dining rooms and bathrooms are very clean. If the wall decorations are not memorable, some of the food is. Furthermore, the greeting is friendly and the seats are comfortable.
On the plate
Chef Mohammad Shakeel Khan has a practiced hand with seasonings, some subtle and others not subtle at all. If you are receptive to the spicy-hot flavors, the highest hurdle to enjoying Indian and Pakistani food is the unexpected textures: soft (overmarinated) meat, for instance. Despite some vegetable dishes, this restaurant concentrates on meat and chicken. Not only does each rate a separate heading on the menu, a charcoal-grill category lists additional chicken and meat dishes. Among the curious uncertainties at Lasania was whether the flavorful “mutton” in the qorma and biryani was lamb or goat. “It’s goat,” our server said with certainty. On the night of our visit, neither of the samosa appetizers was available. Falooda, the big deal dessert (it contains rice-flour noodles and ice cream), was missing as well.
At your service
On our visit, only one person was serving in the dining room. Lori, a good-humored Philippine woman, fielded questions about the food and ingredients with the aplomb of a press secretary, delivered food promptly and found time to stop by each table to check on the diners’ progress.
Second helpings
Mixed pakora, a large appetizer portion of batter-fried vegetables free of excess oil and served hot, was a delight. So was qorma, tender meat in a stew enlivened by yogurt and half-a-dozen spices. A hit among the grain dishes was chicken biryani, an aromatic platter based on long-grain basmati rice. Onion kulcha, a fluffy white flat bread seasoned with sesame, was a fine scoop for sauce.
Take a pass
Mixed vegetables, a long-cooked combination of frozen green beans, corn, carrot and other familiar items, had plenty of spice but a too-soft texture. Tandoori naan, usually among the most charming of flatbreads, was dull.
Thirst quenchers
There’s a full selection of sodas plus lemonade, and iced or hot tea. Lassi, the delicious party drink of the subcontinent, is prepared with yogurt, milk and salt or sugar; with mango it becomes a brilliant orange shake. No alcoholic beverages are sold or poured.
Price range
Appetizers, $3-$4.50; grilled items, $7-$13 (mixed grill, $15); meat and chicken main dishes, $6 or $7; vegetables, $5; rice dishes, $2.50-$7; breads, $1-$2; desserts, $3.50-$4.25; beverages, 85 cents-$3.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
