Some years ago, recently arrived in Paris, I followed a tip and went to dine at the Paris terminal for Orly Airport, the Aerogare des Invalides. Not the least remarkable feature of Paris, in the 1970s at least, was the quality and freshness of the fare served in terminals such as the Gare du Nord and Gare de Lyon.
My appetizer order, an outsized plate of various hors d’oeuvres, included a seasonal salad of beet, endive and mache (rhymes with posh). The last ingredient was unknown to me, but after only a bite or two, I was in love. It was a revelation, bright green and slightly chewy with velvety smooth leaves and a tart taste that made it far more intriguing than raw spinach. As for the remainder of the salad, the beet’s soft sweetness was tempered by the bitterness of the crisp endive and a dressing featuring mustard and lemon.
In the years since, I had seldom come across mache (or lamb’s lettuce, or corn salad as it is known in English-speaking countries) until the appearance of a greens mixture called mesclun in markets and restaurants a few years ago. Mache played a supporting role there, but recently it has turned up at Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s and other markets under its own name in 4-ounce packages. It has been cleaned (no small chore) and is ready to use. Here are some suggestions.
MACHE AND HAM SANDWICH
Makes 4
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 cups mache
4 slices ciabatta or another sandwich bread
6 thin slices boiled ham (about 3 ounces)
1. In a medium bowl, combine mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Chop mache medium fine and stir into sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired.
2. Spread mache mixture on one side of each slice of bread, using all of it. Cut or fold ham slices to fit on two of the bread slices. Cover with the other two slices and cut crosswise to make 4 half sandwiches.
3. Serve with sweet or sour pickles.
Note: For a fruit and mache sandwich, substitute sliced apple for the ham. Serve open face.
SAUTEED MACHE AND TURNIP
4 to 6 servings
6 small turnips, peeled and quartered
2 slices bacon, chopped
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1/4 teaspoon sugar
3 cups chopped mache, or 2 cups mache and 2 cups chopped fresh spinach or beet greens
1. Bring water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add turnips and cook until tender but still firm. Drain. This may be done ahead. Refrigerate turnips until needed.
2. Cook bacon in a large saucepan until it begins to brown. Add onion, garlic and sugar and cook until soft. Add turnips and turn to coat with bacon drippings. Cook over medium heat, turning several times, until turnips begin to brown.
3. Add mache and optional greens. Toss, sprinkle with water and cover pan. Cook until greens have softened, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring once or twice. Serve with pork, chicken or salmon.
MACHE, BEET AND ENDIVE SALAD
3 or 4 servings
For the salad:
2 medium endive, cut crosswise in 1/2-inch rings and broken into pieces
2 small beets (about 2 ounces each) cooked, peeled and diced
2 cups mache
For the vinaigrette:
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Pinch sugar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons olive oil
1. In a salad bowl, combine endive, beets and mache. Refrigerate if not serving immediately.
2. In a small bowl, combine mustard, sugar, salt and pepper. Stir in lemon juice, then slowly add oil, stirring constantly, until smooth.
3. Just before serving, toss salad with 3 tablespoons sauce. Taste and add remaining sauce, if desired. Serve on chilled plates.
Note: Optional additions: 1/3 cup croutons or walnuts.
