(3 forks)
2508 W. Devon Ave.
773-274-5800
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m Tues.-Fri.; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat.-Sun. Closed Feb. 19-27.
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Just two blocks west of Western Avenue, Arya Bhavan is in the heart of Devon Avenue’s Indian scene. Once inside the narrow storefront, customers will stroll by two sets of steam tables on their way to the neat rows of tables and padded chairs. The color scheme is dusty rose. Even taking into account that we likely were pegged as reviewers soon after our arrival, the welcome is warm.
On the plate
Vegetarian dishes are from Gujarat state (a stronghold of vegetarianism thanks to its Jains and Buddhists) as well as the north and south of India. The complex spicing and multiple textures–sturdy chickpeas; crisp, lacy lentil pancakes; chewy flatbread–keep taste buds so busy that most meat eaters won’t mind the change. The lunch buffet early in the week offers only a half-dozen or so dishes, but it expands to a second steam table on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Despite encouragement to take advantage of that option, you can order off the menu at lunchtime as well as at dinner.
At your service
Kirti Sheth, the manager and hostess during our visit, was eager to explain dishes. We were the only people in the room for a weekday lunch, and our dishes arrived promptly.
Second helpings
Take advantage of the thali platter concept on the first visit, is our advice. It offers small portions of up to 10 complementary dishes grouped by geography, though the selection depends on the kitchen that day. (Bear in mind that on weekends, many of the dishes may be available on the expanded buffet, which would be a better deal.) A Jain thali, which adheres to that religion’s stricter culinary rules, also is available. From the north comes the spinach and cheese dish palak paneer, mild and smooth. More texture and spice come from chana masala, chickpeas cooked with cumin, ginger, coriander and other flavorings, the pungent asafetida among them. Navratna korma, though milder, applies similar warm seasonings to tender mixed vegetables. From the south, the crisp dosa, a lacy fried pancake of lentil flour, is a good foil for any moist dish. Made from a similar base, idli are tender, mild dumplings. Among desserts, the often dense gulab jamun, those deep-fried, syrup-soaked nuggets of milk-powder/flour dough, are reasonably light and cakelike.
Take a pass
Oil-brushed naan at lunch was only OK, but perhaps they hadn’t fired up the tandoor oven that can give this flatbread a seared exterior. The sweet version of the mango lassi was almost too thick and fruity; a little more yogurt tang would have been welcome. The north Indian semiya paysam, a dessert of threadlike noodles and cooked, sweetened milk, is on the sticky side.
Thirst quenchers
Soda, juices, coffee and tea in addition to sweet and salty versions of lassi. Indian beers and a house red and white wine are available.
Price range
Soups and appetizers, $3-$5; breads and salads, $1.50-$3; rice dishes, $3-$7; most entrees, $9-$10; thali platters and tandoor specialties, $13; beverages, $1.30-$7.50; desserts, $3. Buffet, $7 Tues.-Thurs., $10 Fri.-Sun.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
