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There’s chowder–hearty, thick and substantial–and then there’s light chowder, which is more delicate and fresh tasting, yet still satisfying enough to be the mainstay of a nourishing supper.

Like many traditional chowders, the versions here are artfully complex combinations of flavorful ingredients and seasonings. What makes them lighter but still rich-tasting is the secret behind their pleasing texture, or body: the use of an abundance of vegetables for thickening, rather than liberal amounts of milk, butter or cream.

Sea bass chowder

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

Yield: 6 first-course servings

Tomatoes, zucchini and other fresh vegetables go into a fish chowder that is light in color and texture.

1 tablespoon butter or olive oil

1 onion, chopped

2 red potatoes, about 1/2 pound total

3 cups low-fat chicken broth or fish stock

Salt, freshly ground pepper

2 small zucchini, cut in 1/4-inch pieces

1 cup milk

1/2 pound sea bass fillets, cut into 1-by-1-by-1/2-inch pieces

1 cup canned diced tomatoes, drained

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves

Whole fresh tarragon leaves

1. Melt butter in a large saucepan over low heat. Add onion; cook, stirring, until softened, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, peel potatoes. Halve lengthwise. Set each half flat side down. Halve them again lengthwise. Cut in thin crosswise slices about 1/8-inch thick.

2. Add potatoes, chicken broth and a pinch of salt and pepper to saucepan; stir. Heat to a boil. Reduce heat to low. Cover; simmer 7 minutes. Add zucchini; heat to a boil. Reduce heat to low; cook, uncovered, until vegetables are tender, about 4 minutes.

3. Stir 1/2 cup of the milk into soup; heat to a boil. Add fish; reduce heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, until fish is barely tender, about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes; simmer 1 minute. Add remaining 1/2 cup of the milk; heat to a boil. Remove from heat; stir in chopped tarragon. Adjust seasoning, if needed. Garnish with tarragon leaves.

Nutrition information per serving:

130 calories, 25% calories from fat, 3.6 g fat, 1.9 g saturated fat, 25 mg cholesterol, 210 mg sodium, 11 g carbohydrate, 14 g protein, 3.3 g fiber

Mixed vegetable chowder

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

Yield: 8 servings

Thick with vegetables and lightly seasoned with curry powder, this chowder can be served hot or chilled.

1 tablespoon each: butter, olive oil

1 teaspoon curry powder or to taste

1 small white onion, chopped

3 green onions, minced

6 cloves garlic, minced

2 ribs celery, minced

2 carrots, minced

1 small zucchini, coarsely grated

2 potatoes, cut in 1/2-inch dice

1 medium head cauliflower broken into florets, about 5 cups

3 tablespoons lemon juice

6 cups low-fat chicken or vegetable broth

1/4 cup each: shredded fresh basil, minced parsley

Salt, freshly ground pepper

1. Melt butter in heavy stockpot over moderately low heat; add olive oil. Stir in curry powder. Add onions and garlic; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 3 minutes.

2. Add celery, carrot, zucchini, potatoes and cauliflower; cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice and the broth. Cook until vegetables are tender, 15-20 minutes. Add basil, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in remaining lemon juice. Serve hot or chilled.

Nutrition information per serving:

115 calories, 26% calories from fat, 3.3 g fat, 1.2 g saturated fat, 4 mg cholesterol, 185 mg sodium, 14 g carbohydrate, 7 g protein, 3.2 g fiber