For dining that’s local or a little further afield, here are some choices from the Tribune’s dining critics.
WEST/SOUTH SUBURBAN
BAR-B-QUE SHACK, 17400 S. Wolf Rd., Orland Park, 708-478-7825. The term “shack” is on the money, though the place is tidy. Come for the hefty, messy sandwiches and ribs. Takeout is a strong point. Recommended: Oven browns, hickory-smoked back ribs, jumbo hot dog. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $5.50-$15.50. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; catered pig roasts.
BISTRO BANLIEUE, 44 Yorktown Convenience Center, Lombard, 630-629-6560. This west suburban charmer is looking very spiffy. Decor is softly lit, the muted yellow walls giving the dining room a golden glow. The classic bistro menu is well-executed, and customer-friendly touches, such as petite-portion entrees for smaller appetites, abound. Recommended: Pan-seared sweetbreads, grilled amberjack, steak Banlieue, chocolate mousse. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $10.95-$21.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Free parking; wheelchair accessible.
BISTRO MARBUZET, 7600 W. Madison Ave., Forest Park, 708-366-9090. Jack Jones’ latest restaurant (he also owns Atlantique and Jack’s on Halsted) is a handsome and affordable bistro that takes its name from a Bordeaux chateau. There’s a wine bar, a Nancy Warren-designed dining room filled with geometric shapes and an artistically rendered menu by chef Griffith Finch. Recommended: Four-cheese pizza, grilled-pear salad, chicken Marbuzet, steak frites, sundae Marbuzet. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $12.95-$18.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
CEBU, 7329 Lemont Rd., Downers Grove, 630-663-8803. At the elegantly appointed Cebu, you won’t encounter the heavy food found at some Philippine spots. Instead you’ll be treated to light, complex Asian cuisine with a definite nouvelle touch. Recommended: Pancit guifado, mini egg rolls, vegetable lumpia, paella, Cebu rice. Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $6.95- $10.95. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
CHEZ FRANCOIS, 14 S. 3rd St., Geneva, 630-262-1000. The former Spanish tapas restaurant Granada underwent a smooth transition to a French format by chef/owner Francois Sanchez, who was born in Spain but grew up in southern France. The regular menu comprises modestly priced, traditional bistro dishes; the daily specials card offers more ambition. Recommended: Charcuterie plate, seafood-vegetable terrine, sauteed skate, duck breast, orange crepes. Open: Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $14.95-$20.95. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only.
CHI TUNG, 9560 S. Kedzie Ave., Evergreen Park, 708-636-8180. When Chi Tung moved around the corner to its present location, the quality of the food remained the same: excellent. The variety is still plentiful and the portions have remained hardy. Recommended: Sushi, barbecued rib appetizer, beef nom tok, Gen. Tsao’s chicken, moo shu pork. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $5.95 -$9.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
L’ANNE, 221 W. Front St., Wheaton, 630-260-1234. Bamboo floors, delicate orchids and a pastoral wall mural evoke a sense of French-colonial Vietnam in this pretty downtown Wheaton spot. There’s a strong Vietnamese emphasis to the French-Asian menu as well, though presentations are decidedly elegant and homemade desserts are strictly Western. Recommended: Crabcake with chile remoulade, beef pho, Dungeness crab with garlic-caviar sauce. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $12-$28. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
LES DEUX GROS, 469 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn, 630-469-4002. This already accomplished restaurant improved every facet of its operation last summer. The dining rooms and kitchen were upgraded in a six-week remodeling project, thousands were invested in the wine list, service has become even more smoothly professional and Michael Lachowicz’ cooking now stretches fearlessly into luxury-level dining. Menus are all prix-fixe, from four to six courses; among the options is a superb cheese assortment. Recommended: Terrine gourmand, sweetbreads-escargots casserole, duet of squab, baked salmon, pommes surprises. Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun., lunch Wed.-Fri. Dinner prices: $70-$88, prix-fixe. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Complimentary valet, jackets requested (required Sat.), no smoking.
MAISON, 30 S. LaGrange Rd., LaGrange, 708-588-9890. This charming and civilized dining room has come a long way since its 2001 opening. Service now exhibits personality and professionalism, the progressive French menu (which changes every six weeks) is consistently interesting and prices have dipped a little. Recommended: Onion tart, pistachio-crusted walleye, mixed game grill, tart tatin. Open: Dinner Wed.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $14.50-$25. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Other: Wheelchair accessible; $3 valet parking available; no smoking.
SALBUTE, 20 E. 1st St., Hinsdale, 630-920-8077. A full liquor license, acquired earlier this year after five years of BYOB status, means you now can enjoy massive margaritas or wine (from a carefully chosen list) along with the boldly seasoned regional Mexican food. The 13-table dining room is colorful and cozy, but there’s virtually no waiting space; don’t even think of visiting without reservations. But the boldly seasoned food is worth a little inconvenience. Recommended: Chicken mini-tostadas, chile rellenos, ostrich with tomatillo-mango sauce, Mexican brownie. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $15.95-$25.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: No smoking.
STONECUTTER’S, 103 Stephen St., Lemont, 630-243-7383. The old Strand restaurant in downtown Lemont has been reborn as a friendly pub with a decent beverage list and a steak and seafood menu. Live music on weekends is a plus, as is the bargain lunch buffet. Recommended: Seafood plate, walnut-crusted tuna, New York strip steak. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $15.95-$32.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted (6 or more Saturdays). Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking.
SUZETTE’S CREPERIE, 211 W. Front St., Wheaton, 630-462-0898. At this intriguing French creperie, it’s important to consult the ever-changing blackboard that lists the daily specials for soups, desserts and entrees. Though the daily five-course meal may not qualify as a cheap eat at $25, it is definitely a bargain for its portions. Recommended: Southwestern vegetable chowder, spicy coconut shrimp crepe, broccoli and cheese crepe, beef bourguignon crepe. Open: Dinner, lunch and afternoon tea Wed.-Sat., brunch Sun. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Entree prices: $10-$12.50. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
TIN FISH, 18201 S. Harlem Ave., Tinley Park, 708-532-0200. This casual, south-suburban seafooder offers the usual assortment of fresh oysters, whole steamed lobsters, crab legs and a handful of prime steaks. There’s also a design-it-yourself aspect to most of the fin fish; customers choose a fish, preparation style and accompaniment from a half-dozen choices each. The chef’s recommendation is clearly indicated, but it’s fun to mix and match. Recommended: Asian tuna tartare, crab cake, cornmeal-crusted whitefish, blackened mahi-mahi, bourbon pecan pie. Entree prices: $12.95-$32.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet Fri.-Sat.; smoking in bar only.
CITY
ARIA, Fairmont Chicago Hotel, 200 N. Columbus Drive, 312-444-9494. This ambitious, unfussily elegant dining room is the setting for a globe-trotting menu that presents comfort food from four continents, including Indian naan, Vietnamese hot-sour shrimp and foie-gras-infused chawan mushi. The food is often excellent and presentation is almost camera-ready, particularly among the luscious desserts. Only maddeningly inconsistent service keeps this place from a higher rating. Recommended: Foie gras terrine, swordfish osso buco, lobster-duck chow mein, chocolate trio. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in lounge only.
BISTRO CAMPAGNE, 4518 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-271-6100. Michael Altenberg and Steven Schwartz, owners of Campagnola in Evanston, have a second restaurant in this cozy Lincoln Square bistro. Both properties share a reverence for culinary tradition and a commitment to organic produce and naturally raised meat. Recommended: Mussels, roasted pork chop, plank-roasted salmon. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$20. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
DKELLY, 623 Randolph St., 312-628-0755. Chef/owner Daniel Kelly is as low key as they come, but his cooking speaks volumes. Meals start with an impressive amuse, such as avocado mousse with seaweed and foamed cream, and his modestly described menu offers one surprise after another. This in a well-appointed but down-to-earth dining room with attentive service and a budget-friendly wine list. Recommended: Cozy shrimp, roasted-tomato soup, lobster-stuffed chicken breast, grilled pork chop, chocolate-marshmallow cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $19-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in the bar only.
EVEREST, 440 S. LaSalle St., 312-663-8920. One of the literal and figurative high points of Chicago dining since 1986, this restaurant consistently delivers a superb dining experience with sumptuous surroundings, supremely attentive service and food that is as awe-inspiring as the spectacular 40th-floor views. Chef/proprietor Jean Joho’s menu balances old and new, offering signatures such as salmon filet wrapped in a cloud-like blanket of salmon mousse, and challenging creations such as Indian-spiced lamb or an all-parsnip dessert presentation. The wine list is as world-class as the rest of the operation, headed by a sommelier–Alpana Singh–whose knowledge belies her tender years. Recommended: Sea scallops with lentils, salmon mousse, herb-crusted lamb, chocolate souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $32-$46; seven-course degustation menu $89. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Required. Noise: Hushed. Other: Complimentary valet parking; no smoking.
FOGO DE CHAO, 661 N. LaSalle St., 312-932-9330. This rodizio-style Brazilian churrascaria features continuous service of up to 15 grilled meats — delivered tableside by costumed gauchos — in a fixed-price, all-you-can-eat format that also includes side dishes and a hefty salad bar. (Desserts and drinks additional.) The huge dining room features linen-topped tables, handsome decor and amazingly efficient service. Recommended: Picanha (rump steak), pork loin, top sirloin, creme de papaya. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Fixed prices: $43.50 dinner, $24.50 lunch. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.
FORTUNATO, 2005 W. Division St., 773-645-7200. No calamari and no tiramisu are the watchwords at Jennifer Newbury’s Wicker Park restaurant, where imaginative dishes are always true to their country-Italian roots and simplicity and flavor reign. The decor marries rustic earth tones with contemporary urban materials. Recommended: Baby octopus, braised duck with polenta, wood-grilled trout, lemon pudding, pistachio torta. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$19. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
KEEFER’S, 20 W. Kinzie St., 312-467-9525. What differentiates this River North spot from the city’s rank-and-file steak-and-seafooders is the cooking of chef John Hogan, who works a few French touches (including a dish or two from his former restaurant, Savarin) into the menu mix. Recommended: Mussels mariniere, tomato bisque, N.Y. strip steak, pork chop, seafood pot pie, tart tatin. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $15.95-$29.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar only.
