In cooking, as in writing, the fastest method is not necessarily the best method. Take grilling, and the technique of placing food beside the coals or gas flame in a grill (“indirect”) as opposed to placing the food over them (“direct”).
We mainly use our grills to cook steaks, chicken breasts and hamburgers (each compact, tender and flat) directly over the heat. But by using an indirect approach we can broaden considerably the number of cuts of meat, fish and vegetables that may be cooked successfully on an outdoor grill. Turkey breast, pork tenderloin, an extra-thick porterhouse steak or a whole fish should be grilled more slowly and gently to be cooked fully but remain juicy.
“Cooking by the indirect method is really useful for summer entertaining,” said Bill Jamison, co-author with his wife, Cheryl, of “Smoke and Spice” and a half-dozen other books on outdoor cooking. “You can prepare large pieces that feed a lot of people and, if you are cooking meat, you can choose less expensive cuts that are more flavorful and more flexible in terms of cooking time and temperature.” Among them are lamb shanks, chuck roast, pork shoulder and whole chicken or duck.
Others join him in decrying the high-heat, bonfire method of cooking meat on the grill. Too often we flip the foods, poke them, and then try to drag them from harm’s way when a flare-up occurs.
Here’s how Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby approach back ribs in their book, “How to Cook Meat.”
“Start a fire well over to one side of a large kettle grill, using about enough coals to fill a large shoe box.
“When the coals are well lit and covered with gray ash, place the meat on the side of the grill away from the coals, being careful that none of the meat is directly over the coals. Put the lid on the grill with the vents open one-quarter of the way and cook for 20 minutes. Flip the ribs and cook them for an additional 20 minutes.”
That, ladies and gentlemen, is indirect cooking.
Hybrid cooking
In “The Barbecue Bible,” Steven Raichlen writes of the process as “a hybrid method, invented in this century.” As with traditional barbecuing, which involves long smoking over wood coals, the food is cooked next to the coals. But with the newer method, the temperature is higher, usually 350 to 400 degrees, he writes.
“Indirect grilling gives you the best of both grilling and barbecuing–the charcoal flavor of the former, the tenderness and smokiness of the latter–without the drawbacks. It is a lot more forgiving than direct grilling in terms of timing and temperature control.” But tough cuts still may require a marinade or a different method entirely, such as moist heat cooking.
In his new book, “Grilling & Barbecuing,” Denis Kelly calls indirect cooking in a kettle grill “roasting.” Because “it cooks all surfaces at a controlled rate, ” he writes, “it can allow for more time to let the interior cook through while the surface gradually browns.”
You can vary indirect cooking in several ways. If you first sear the food directly over the heat source then move it away, for example, the method is a combination of grilling and roasting.
Also, when working with a large cut of meat such as leg of lamb, you can use a two-level fire, searing the meat over a higher bed of coals, then moving it over a lower bed to cook more slowly.
Large pork cuts also do better with lower heat cooking, according to Merle Ellis, author of “The Great American Meat Book.” (Ellis suggests cooking pork to an internal temperature of no more than 155 to 160 degrees to keep the best flavor and juiciness.)
“Turn down the heat; you’ll eat better pork if you do,” he writes.
Step by step to indirect grilling
Here’s how to cook ribs, whole turkeys, chicken, fish or roasts–foods that require 25 minutes of cooking or more–by the indirect method.
Charcoal grills
Place hot coals (allow 25 minutes after lighting to make them properly hot) on either side of the fire grate, or at one end. Place a drip pan (a lightweight foil pan is fine) in the center of the bottom grate or beside the coals gathered at one end. Pour some water into the pan. It will catch drippings and prevent flare-ups.
Place food on the cooking grate, cover with the lid and check the temperature with a grill thermometer every 30 to 40 minutes, adding coals as needed (perhaps 6 to 8 every 30 minutes). For the hybrid “grill-roast” method mentioned in this story, the target temperature is 350-400 degrees.
As the suggested end of cooking time approaches, remove the cover and use an instant-read thermometer to test the internal temperature in the thickest part of the food. Let meat stand 10-20 minutes before carving and serving.
Gas grills
Gas and electric grills are easier to start and provide temperature readings for the cooking chamber. Because most gas grills have two or three burners, indirect cooking is achieved by lighting one burner on high and heating for 15 minutes. Then place the food over the unlighted burner and cover. Test the temperature of the food as above for doneness. Let meat rest 10 to 20 minutes before carving.
–W.R.
How long will it take to cook? Some estimates
These guidelines for cooking times of selected foods cooked over indirect heat come from Weber-Stephen Products Co. and the Tribune test kitchen.
Meat over medium heat:
1 1/2-inch-thick steak: Sear over direct high heat 10 minutes, then 6-8 minutes over indirect medium heat
3 1/2- 4-pound whole beef tenderloin: Sear over direct heat 20 minutes, then 20-25 minutes with indirect medium heat
2 1/2 -pound tri-tip roast: Sear over direct high heat 10 minutes, then 25 minutes with indirect medium heat.
4-pound loin pork roast: 1 1/4 –1 3/4 hours
6-pound semi-boneless rolled leg of lamb: 2 1/2 hours
Poultry over medium heat:
3 1/2-5 pound whole chicken: 1-1 1/2 hours
2-pound turkey breast: 1 1/2-2 hours
5-pound whole duck: 1 1/2-2 hours
Fish over medium heat:
1 pound whole fish: 15-20 minutes
2-2 1/2 pounds whole fish: 20-30 minutes
For more information
– Cooks with questions about indirect cooking on a covered grill, or other grilling questions, can call the Weber Grill-Line, 800-474-5568, from 6 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday through Friday through Labor Day.
– Cookbooks that provide good information on indirect grill cooking include:
“Grilling & Barbecuing,” by Denis Kelly (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $29.95). Kelly makes a case for calling the process “indirect roasting” and provides good information on wood and herb flavorings. Recipes are eclectic and upscale.
“The Best Recipe, Grilling and Barbecue,” by the editors of Cook’s Illustrated Magazine (Boston Common Press, $29.95). Line drawings illustrate the use of charcoal and gas grills for indirect cooking. Recipes focus on meat and poultry.
“Let the Flames Begin,” by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby (Morrow, $30). A chatty, intelligent presentation of techniques. Hearty food, often spicy, with colorful garnishes.
“The Barbecue Bible,” by Steven Raichlen (Workman, $18.95). Useful comparisons of grills and fuel plus detailed how-to information and lots of recipes.
–W.R.
Cumin-crusted pork loin with grilled avocados and apple-chipotle salsa
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 1 1/2-2 hours
Yield: 8 servings
– This boneless cut gets a Latin American treatment here. If you don’t care for the heat or flavor of chipotles, they can be omitted. The avocados, which go on the grill after the pork has cooked, stay on the grate just long enough to give them some smokiness and color. For best texture, select ripe avocados. Adapted from “How to Cook Meat,” by Chis Schlesinger and John Willoughby, which recommends removing the pork when its internal temperature reaches 147 degrees. Ours cooked to 160 degrees without drying out.
Apple-chipotle salsa:
2 Granny Smith apples, cored, diced
1 red onion, peeled, diced
1 to 3 tablespoons minced canned chipotle peppers in adobe sauce
Juice of 2-3 limes, about 1/4 cup
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Salt, freshly ground pepper
Spice rub:
1/4 cup each: kosher salt, freshly cracked black pepper, ground cumin or whole cumin seeds
2 tablespoons brown sugar
Pork and avocados:
1 boneless center cut pork loin roast, about 3 pounds, external fat trimmed to 1/4-inch, patted dry
4 avocados, halved, pitted
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt, freshly ground pepper
1. For the salsa, mix apples, onion, chipotles, lime juice, cilantro and salt and pepper to taste in medium bowl. Cover; chill until serving time.
2. For spice rub, mix kosher salt, cracked pepper, cumin and brown sugar in small bowl. Pour mixture onto large plate; roll pork roast in mixture to coat, pressing gently to help it adhere to all surfaces. Set aside.
3. For charcoal grill, light about 40 briquettes; when white ash starts to appear, divide into 2 portions; push to opposite sides of kettle. With a gas grill, prepare for indirect cooking. Place pork in center of cooking grate; cover. Cook 1 hour; insert instant-read thermometer into middle of meat to check internal temperature. Cook until desired internal temperature is reached, about 150 degrees for medium, about 30 minutes longer. Remove meat to a platter; let stand, covered loosely with foil, 10-20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, brush cut sides of avocado with olive oil; sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Grill cut-side down directly over coals or heat source until you see grill marks, about 5 minutes. Remove from grill; fill with apple salsa. Slice pork; serve with stuffed avocados.
Nutrition information per serving:
490 calories, 58% calories from fat, 32 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 95 mg cholesterol, 805 mg sodium, 15 g carbohydrate, 37 g protein, 6 g fiber
Stuffed tandoori peppers
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
– The filling in these grilled peppers, adapted from a recipe in “The Barbecue Bible,” by Steven Raichlen, is a meal in itself–a soulful stew of onion, potato, cabbage and nuts assertively seasoned with spices and cheese.
4 large green, red or yellow bell peppers
Juice of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, one coarsley chopped, one minced
1 piece (1/2-inch long) fresh ginger root
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 onion, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon each: cumin seeds, ground turmeric
1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper
1/3 small head green cabbage, cored, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon raisins
8 cashews, coarsely chopped
1 large potato, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 tomato, chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup grated Gouda or mild Cheddar cheese
1. Cut stem ends from peppers to form caps; set aside. Scrape veins and seeds from peppers with a spoon or melon baller; set peppers aside. Combine the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the oil, the coarsely chopped garlic, ginger and the salt in a blender or food processor; process until smooth. Brush interiors of the peppers and caps with this mixture; set aside.
2. Prepare the grill for indirect grilling using high heat. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat on stovetop. Add the minced garlic, onion, cumin seeds, turmeric and red pepper. Cook until the onion just begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cabbage, raisins, cashews, potato and tomato. Cook 2 minutes; reduce heat to low. Cover; cook the vegetables until soft, stirring occasionally, 10-15 minutes. (Check after 10 minutes; if the vegetables look wet, uncover the pan for the last 5 minutes to evaporate excess liquid.) Stir in the cilantro; cook 1 minute. Stir in cheese; remove from heat.
3. Spoon the filling into the peppers; top with pepper caps. Place the peppers in the center of the hot grate away from the heat source. Cover grill; cook until the peppers are nicely browned and tender, 20-30 minutes. Place peppers directly over the flames to lightly char skins before removing from heat. Serve hot.
Nutrition information per serving:
305 calories, 46% calories from fat, 17 g fat, 4.2 g saturated fat, 16 mg cholesterol, 430 mg sodium, 35 g carbohydrate, 9 g protein, 7 g fiber
Roast duck with ginger-honey glaze
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1 1/2-2 hours
Yield: 4 servings
– This is adapted from a recipe in Denis Kelly’s “Grilling and Barbecuing,” which suggests using a rotisserie. We cooked ours on a rack, without turning, in a charcoal-burning kettle grill, where it cooked to doneness in an hour and a half. We added a handful of dry mesquite chips to the briquettes before putting on the lid, but that is strictly optional. The ginger-honey glaze is optional too. Brushing it on toward the end of cooking tends to wash off the spice rub.
2 tablespoons ground ginger
1 tablespoon onion powder
2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground coriander
Zest and juice of 1 lemon, lemon shells reserved
1 duckling, 4-5 pounds
1 onion, quartered
1/4 cup each: honey, sweet sherry
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger root
1. Combine ground ginger, onion powder, pepper, salt, coriander and lemon zest in small bowl; set aside. Remove visible fat from the duck; prick the skin all over with the tip of a sharp knife. Sprinkle cavity and the skin of the duck generously with the spice mixture. Quarter the reserved lemon shells; place shells and onion in duck cavity.
2. For a charcoal grill, light about 50 briquettes; when white ash starts to appear, divide into 2 portions; push to opposite sides of kettle. For a gas grill, set dial to medium-low heat. Position disposable foil pan in center of bottom grate to catch fat from duck.
3. Place duck on cooking grate; cover. For a charcoal grill, close hood vent most of the way; leave bottom vent fully open. Cook until instant-read thermometer inserted in the thigh reaches 160 degrees and the skin is brown and crisp, checking drip pan and duck cavity occasionally during cooking to empty fat. (If skin browns too fast, cover duck with foil; close bottom vents slightly.)
4. For the glaze, combine lemon juice, honey, sherry and fresh ginger in a small bowl. Begin brushing generously with glaze about 15 minutes before the duck is done, taking care not to wash away all of the spice rub. Remove duck from grill; brush with more glaze before serving.
Nutrition information per serving:
655 calories, 72% calories from fat, 52 g fat, 18 g saturated fat, 155 mg cholesterol, 985 mg sodium, 10 g carbohydrate, 36 g protein, 2 g fiber
Thai-style barbecued turkey breast
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Marinating time: 4-6 hours
Cooking time: 1 1/2 hours
Yield: 6 servings
Look for Thai chili paste in Thai food markets; you can substitute with an Asian chili garlic sauce, which is more readily available in supermarkets. Adapted from a recipe from The Chopping Block cooking school.
1/4 cup each: soy sauce, packed light brown sugar
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons each: Asian fish sauce, lime juice,
Asian sesame oil
1 1/2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger root
1/4 cup Thai chili paste (nam prik pao) or chili garlic sauce
1/4 cup grapeseed or vegetable oil
1 boneless turkey breast, about 1 1/2 pounds
1. Combine soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic, fish sauce, lime juice, sesame oil, ginger, chili paste and oil in a large plastic bag. Add turkey; seal bag. Refrigerate 4-6 hours, turning bag occasionally.
2. Prepare grill for indirect cooking. Remove turkey breast from marinade; place on the unheated portion of the grill, skin side down. Cook until breast is deep brown and an instant-read meat thermometer reads 155 degrees. Remove from grill; tent lightly with foil. Let stand 15 minutes before slicing,
Nutrition information per serving:
260 calories, 47% calories from fat, 14 g fat, g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 785 mg sodium, 7 g carbohydrate, 27 g protein, 0 g fiber
