(two forks)
2311 W. North Ave.
773-384-9546
Hours: 4 p.m.-midnight Sun.-Thurs.; 4 p.m.-2 a.m. Fri.; 4 p.m.-3 a.m. Sat.; 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun. (brunch)
Credit cards: A,D, DC,M,V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly (but conversation-challenged Wednesday nights)
First impressions
The former La Cumbamba space has been reinvented as a restaurant and bar with a bicycle theme. Bar stools are made from twisted bicycle wheel rims, and the exposed brick walls are papered with abstract paintings, fliers promoting bike rallies and anti-automobile propaganda.
On the plate
The menu is mostly vegetarian, with a few fish dishes for those who tire of tofu. Starters include mushroom caps stuffed with “soysage” and pine nuts, chili and cheese quesadillas, ancho chili and a few salads. Sandwiches, including the Green Meanie (avocado, herbed feta spread, spinach, tomato and sprouts), come with coleslaw and choice of tasty fries or brown rice. A small but eclectic assortment of entrees include pasta wheels with traditional or pumpkin seed pesto, and West African sweet potato-zucchini-peanut stew. Many dishes can be prepared vegan or without dairy products.
Second helpings
We loved the piping-hot samosas, served with the traditional spicy coriander-yogurt sauce and chutney. Also tasty was the Handlebar salad, arugula with pear, walnuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano and tossed with Champagne-honey mustard dressing. Other winners include perfectly cooked blackened catfish and fish tacos (grilled catfish with corn tortillas, shredded cabbage, avocado and salsa). The wheat “meat” in the barbecue seitan sandwich had a convincing texture and the sauce was good.
Take a pass
Consistency can be a problem. On one visit, the mashed potatoes were so runny they were served in a coffee mug and the boiled collard greens were utterly tasteless. The Hermes Pie, pastry dough stuffed with eggplant, spinach, feta and copious amounts of chopped kalamata olives, was soggy and salty.
Thirst quenchers
There’s a full bar, but this is a beer-lovers’ spot. Co-owner Josh Deth, formerly a brewer at Goose Island, keeps a rotating selection of eight or so esoteric options on tap; the choices include Goose Island Summertime and Three Floyds’ Alpha King. The list of bottled beers heavies up on American microbrews and hard-to-find Belgian ales. An affordable wine list features eight bottles (most under $28) and nine wines by the glass ($4-$6). Non-alcoholic options include organic coffee and fruit juices.
At your service
Servers are friendly and low-key, but often overwhelmed at peak times. On one visit, when one of the people in our party asked how spicy the Bloody Marys were, our server brought us a small glass of the mix to taste. While seated on the rear patio for brunch, we were asked to hand over a credit card before our server took our order, presumably to keep us from skipping out over the back wall.
Extras
On Mondays, anyone who shows a bicycle messenger ID gets a free order of French fries; Wednesdays feature live rock music.
Price range
Appetizers, $2-$7; soups and salads, $3-$7; sandwiches, $5-$7; entrees $7-$10; desserts, $3-$7; beverages $1.50-$9.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key:
4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best;
2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
