Despite the hamburger’s status as a staple of American cuisine, a good one is still hard to find. Luckily, there are still bars in the city that take the time to make ’em just right.
Jury’s Food & Drink
Located at the south end of Lincoln Square, Jury’s is a happy contradiction–an upscale restaurant and bar that just about anyone can afford (no menu item costs more than $10). The burgers, which seem a bit out of place next to the extensive wine list and candlelit tables, are no exception: juicy, just spicy enough to grab your attention and only $6. The service at Jury’s won’t win any awards, but most everything on the menu is worth the wait. Outdoor seating on the sidewalk and back patio is an added bonus. 4337 N. Lincoln Ave. 773-935-2255.
Xippo
At this neighborhood pub dressed up like a snazzy nightclub, the hamburgers are easy to miss–the menu features mostly fancier fare like filet mignon and halibut. But make no mistake, the burgers ($8) are every bit as tasty. The steak sauce used by the chefs seems to go a long way toward the burgers’ appeal. The restaurant recently added a turkey version topped with brie and Granny Smith apples to the menu. The adventurous and the health-conscious have made it a popular choice. 3759 N. Damen Ave. 773-529-9135.
Emerald Isle
The burgers at Emerald Isle are all made from fresh meat, direct from a local butcher, and neighborhood regulars wouldn’t have it any other way. The barbecue burger (complete with grilled onions, cheddar and the usual fixings) could easily be the house’s best dish, were it not for the Scotty Burger–an amazing concoction topped with fresh mushrooms, mozzarella, lettuce and tomatoes, and named for the bar’s owner ($5.50). 2537 W. Peterson Ave. 773-561-6674.
Pete Miller’s Seafood and Prime Steak
While the menu of prime steaks and fish may get most of the attention here, the burgers ($8.95) draw their share of diners. The secret, the chef claims, is the prime beef and the restaurant’s “nothing artificial” policy. Each burger includes choice of hand-cut steak fries, mashed potatoes or roasted red potatoes. The slick decor and mature-yet-accessible ambience definitely merit making a night of it, but diners who don’t have time to linger can sidle up to the bar for a quick bite accompanied by nightly live jazz. 1557 Sherman Ave., Evanston, 847-328-0399.
Cleo’s
An off-the-beaten-path bar in the heart of Ukrainian Village, Cleo’s may have the only kitchen for miles that boasts veggie burgers as a specialty. Hand-made with a host of secret (meatless) ingredients, they taste especially good with American cheese–but carnivores order it so often, the restaurant even offers it with crumbled bacon. Neighborhood folks love Cleo’s for its lack of pretense, especially on Saturday nights, when the bar hosts a free buffet from 11 p.m. until
1 a.m. The buffet doesn’t include the burgers, but at $6.50, they’re still a great deal. 1935 W. Chicago Ave. 312-243-5600.
Pontiac Cafe
The burgers here are plenty tasty, but the secret to Pontiac Cafe’s success is location, location, location. Wicker Parkers flock to the outdoor seating for unparalleled people-watching, complemented by burgers that taste like they were grilled on a backyard barbecue. Newcomers order ’em plain ($7) and are always satisfied, but regulars know they’re even better with blue cheese and bacon ($9.50). The fries are a worthy accompaniment: Seasoned lightly with herbs de Provence, they give the palate a completely different kind of workout. While the patio is seasonal, the menu isn’t; the simple comforting food works just as well as a winter warm-up. 1531 N. Damen Ave. 773-252-7767.




