(4 forks)
655 N. Cass Ave., Westmont
630-655-1021
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tues.-Fri. (buffet only); 6-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; 6-11 p.m. Fri.; noon-3:30 and 6-11 p.m. Sat.; noon-3:30 and
6-10 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
There’s nothing like a strip mall to obscure any sign of personality from businesses within its stark confines. Still, Shree prevails — once you find it, in a large concrete block on the corner of Ogden and Cass Avenues. The decor’s low-key polish (vinyl tablecloths, black chairs) is augmented by figurines and paintings of the Indian gods Shiva and Ganesha. The two-room dining area, with seating for about 100, is kept impeccably clean and tidy.
On the plate
Beauty and flavor compete for honors in an ample menu of South and North Indian vegetarian cuisine, dominated by complex curries and massive dosas (pancakes of rice flour and ground lentils) containing a bounty of spicy and savory ingredients. Several appetizers and desserts offer appealing ways to begin and end a meal.
Second helpings
For starters, you can venture from the hot (deep-fried samosas, with a satisfying, mellow blend of potatoes and peas) to the cold (exotically spiced dahi vadai, soft lentil “doughnuts” submerged in a sauce of reduced yogurt). Bread, a pivotal part of the Indian dining experience, offers fabulous examples in the poori, steaming-hot pockets of deep-fried whole-wheat puffs. Special uthappam, a plate-size potato pancake with a filling of peas, onions and carrots, gets added ammunition from the accompanying coconut sauce and peanut sauce. Scintillating curries include bangan bhartha, a spicy combination of mashed eggplant, tomatoes, onion and peas–all empowered by the fragrant presence of cumin and cinnamon. Western-trained palates can finish the meal with the familiar flavor of mango ice cream. But we loved the ras malai, cubes of soft cheese (made in the kitchen) soaking in a cardamom-spiked evaporated milk that’s not too sweet but extremely comforting.
At your service
Service is generally prompt and unobtrusive. Nicely dressed waiters in slacks and dress shirts patiently explain the dishes on the menu, though occasionally their efforts could be more descriptive for those unfamiliar with Indian fare.
Thirst quenchers
Freshly made lassis–yogurt-based “shakes”–bring a brightness, and sweetness, to the meal. Coffee, tea, soda and Indian mango juice are here as well. Alcohol is not served but BYOB is allowed.
Extras
An all-you-can-eat lunch buffet is offered weekdays with six curries, appetizer, two kinds of rice, naan, salads, yogurts and a pair of desserts for $7.45. Special lunch platters also are offered weekdays for $5. Smoking is not allowed.
Prices
Appetizers, $3.95-$6.95; bread and rice, $1-$4.95; entrees, $5.45-$7.95; desserts, $2.95-$3.95; beverages, $1.50-$2.25.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
