(3 forks)
1801 S. Wolf Rd., Hillside
708-449-0125
Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
Credit cards: A,M, V
Noise factor: Conversation-friendly
First impressions
In the ongoing Italian beef debate–as in, who serves the best in Chicago?–Carm’s is often cited. The restaurant dates to 1947 Berwyn, and later expanded into four stores; today, just the Hillside outlet remains, where it has been for 27 years. Carm’s is a beef joint, yes, but one with panache. Comfortable seating for 35 is offered in a casual, clean dining area. Customers order at the counter; dishes are either called out or, if hot plates are involved, brought to the table. Carryout plays a big role here, especially at lunchtime, when a line out the door isn’t unusual. Dinner hour is less busy but not necessarily quieter: The family-friendly atmosphere and prices make it a youngster hangout too.
On the menu
Italian beef sandwiches–from Grandma Carmella’s original recipe–put Carm’s on the map, and they continue to fuel the long lines at lunch. But plenty more shows up here, including pizza, pasta, burgers and dogs, and hot and cold sandwiches. Beer and wine are served too.
Second helpings
Italian beef made Carm’s reputation, and we can’t quibble: Slices of tender, nicely seasoned beef are folded into a fresh Italian roll and served with a perfect juice-to-meat ratio; hot, extra hot or sweet peppers add an additional layer of flavor and texture. That said, we would have a tough time passing up the pasta dishes here. The super-meaty tomato sauce, teamed with spaghetti, rigatoni or mostaccioli, would be at home in a white tablecloth restaurant. Order it with the tender, melt-in-your-mouth meatballs. For starters, the house salad dolls up ordinary iceberg with a lively supporting cast: black and green olives, pepperoncini, cucumbers, tomato and green onion, all tossed in a zesty Italian dressing. The Italian submarine might be more appropriately called a skyscraper. Heaping layers of capicolla, mortadella, salami and provolone cheese create a towering, if intimidating, effect; the fresh sandwich meats and cheese reign supreme, though we would have liked more of the tangy dressing.
Take a pass
The run-of-the-mill onion rings and french fries were quickly bypassed in favor of finishing the generous-sized entrees.
At your service
Service is friendly and accommodating.
Thirst quenchers
Beer on tap and in the bottle, as well as wine (merlot, pinot grigio and white zinfandel) add spirit to the expected soda and shake offerings.
Extras
Delivery is available. A kid’s menu of five offerings includes a “kid’s beef.” And for those who want to have an Italian beef party at home, all the fixings for Carm’s sandwiches are sold in bulk.
Prices
Appetizers and sides: $1.49-$2.85; soup and salads: $2.85-$5.85; sandwiches and subs, $1.80-$8.79; entrees: $3.99-$8.25; pizza starts at $7.95; drinks: $1.25-$3.25; beer: $2.25-$3.85, pitchers start at $7; wine: $4 glass, bottle $20.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
